Goodbye to Savage
- Thread starter stagpanther
- Start date
Txhillbilly
New member
While barrel's like that should never get past QC, you get what you pay for.
You buy a Yugo priced firearm, Don't expect Rolls Royce quality!
You buy a Yugo priced firearm, Don't expect Rolls Royce quality!
FrankenMauser
New member
It is already paid for, at that point.FITASC said:
And it is not that FFL's problem.
Would you really find it appropriate to walk in the door for a $25 transfer, inspect the rifle, and tell the guy that he has to send it back to Savage - even though he didn't sell it?
You're barking down the wrong rabbit hole, after having confused a blade of grass with a tree.
Not only do I find your blame to be tremendously misplaced, but I would find your presumption of responsibility to be extremely rude if you actually made that call in your local gun shop.
The dealer would be the first place to go. He took your money.
"...It's not a Shilen, or Critereon..." No, but a BNIB barrel from anybody should not be like that.
"...attracting defective guns..." It's not exactly defective. It'll go bang. And will probably be just as accurate as any hunting rifle. Thing is if you shoot it you may be stuck with it. Read the warrantee. I wouldn't wait either.
"...a Facebook page..." That is not the place to do anything.
"...It's not a Shilen, or Critereon..." No, but a BNIB barrel from anybody should not be like that.
"...attracting defective guns..." It's not exactly defective. It'll go bang. And will probably be just as accurate as any hunting rifle. Thing is if you shoot it you may be stuck with it. Read the warrantee. I wouldn't wait either.
"...a Facebook page..." That is not the place to do anything.
stagpanther
New member
It is a disappointment, I may one day think about cutting off the last half inch and recrowning the barrel--or maybe i'll just send it back to savage so they can mount it on their trophy wall.
stagpanther
New member
This isn't your normal every-day machine tooling oopsie gouge--it looks like a freakin snowplow went through the bore and dug a ditch. I'm beginning to wonder if an obstruction was left in the bore and the pitting is due to something exploding.
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brasscollector
New member
It looks like they tried to transition between longitudinal rifling and radial, yikes. As for the pitting, almost has that copper-ish color to it, any chance its fouling?
hounddog409
New member
Meh, never been a fan of Savage. Never bothered to spend money on one. Life is too short to own an ugly rifle.
stagpanther
New member
It looks like fouling--but that's an aberration of the borecam photo--this is a new unfired rifle as of the time I took the photos (I fired some tubbs coarse grit lapping bullets today to see what would happen).
Colorado Redneck
New member
Ya never should have bought a bore scope.
stagpanther
New member
Much less two of them.
I believe it's a physical fact of bore life--the more aberrations in the bore--the quicker it will foul--and the more effort it will take to clean it and hence limit the useful life of the barrel and make consistency a moving target, so to speak.
stagpanther
New member
I'm just now starting to consider semi-custom and custom actions--but have found getting one that matches my needs is about as easy as finding rifle primers. There's ALWAYS a catch it seems. I really like the design behind Howa's receivers--except that getting the barrel off a stock barreled action may or may not be possible for the average home enthusiast. I have two Bergara-manufactured guns and for modern mass-produced guns I haven't seen their equal in terms of the quality of the barrels that are buttoned-rifled. I'm trying to "wean" myself from round-bottom actions, I still believe the model 70 or similar flat-bottomed action is one of the best ever designed (I like Ruger's take the 77 as well, and the bolt and safety are smoother than the model 70 IMO), if someone would make one of those that allowed for easy swap out of a controlled feed bolt I'd probably buy a dozen right off the bat.
stagpanther said:
I've been considering custom receivers for quite some time as well. Just haven't taken the plunge into that world yet. Unfortunately you can't beat economics, and a round bottom receiver M700 clone is much cheaper to produce than a clone of a M70 or M77. I mean just look at the GMA M98 clones and they start around $3000 for just the action, and M700 clones start at $1000 +/-. If you go commercial actions such as the M70, M77, and M98 you are usually close to $1000 if not more with the purchase of the donor and the blue printing work.
If you want a switch barrel rifle on a M70 receiver, just just buy up as many beat up old Post 64 push feeds as you can in long and short action, magnum and standard bolt faces, if you can find one .223 as well. You could probably even find you a barrel maker that would build you a pre-fit barrel with a barrel nut. That'll probably get you the closest to what you want the cheapest.
As far a getting the barrel off the Howa actions as a home hobbyist, with careful work with a hacksaw making a relief cut around the barrel would probably get it done. I don't know why Howa torques the barrel on so tight, but my gunsmith says a relief cut is the only way to guarantee you won't twist the receiver removing the barrel. This is the way they remove barrels from the 1917 and P14 receivers as well.
I need to find a source of actions as well. I had planned on using the M700 ADL rifles I could pick up from Wally World for under $400. I did buy a couple, but wound up selling the .243 donor and am currently shooting the .223 donor I bought. I put the .223 in a B&C stock and it shoots well enough I'm not interested in changing it at the moment. If Remington M700 are produced again I'll probably stick with them for my budget builds if they still offer a budget model. The 700 ADL package rifle was almost $200 cheaper than the M10/110 XP rifles and about $50 more than the Axis II XP's at my local WM.
I sure miss the days of when I purchased my first brand new Stevens 200 for $175 shipped to my FFL off of gunbroker! I never paid over $300 for a donor Stevens 200 rifle and I just used my last one to build a 6mm Creedmoor. I may swap that barrel out for a .358 Win barrel I have since I got my Howa 6mm Creed.
stagpanther
New member
You know how those relief cuts are done? AFAIK you have to come in from inside the barrel and cut up just shy of the lug and stopping before contacting the threads on the receiver. Not likely the average home hobbiest is going to have the hardware to do that properly. I talked to a guy at legacy international about how Howa installs barrels--I'm not sure I understood his words completely--but he mentioned something about about a "back pressure" lock of the barrel to the receiver--in other words it isn't solely a one-direction torque of the barrel to the receiver.
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My gunsmith said he chucks it up in a lathe and makes the relief cut at the juncture of the the front receiver ring. He cuts down to the barrel tenon diameter and said that relieves the tension on the action. Then most of the time he can screw the barrel off by hand.
However, I did find this ARTICLE and it does look like it takes a fairly long cheater but the guy takes the action and barrel apart fairly easily.
However, I did find this ARTICLE and it does look like it takes a fairly long cheater but the guy takes the action and barrel apart fairly easily.
stagpanther
New member
I have zero experience with gunsmithing lathes--but if I understand correctly--he says he's cutting from the outside of the barrel in? The power of the join I would think is in the contact of the tennon threads to the threads of the receiver--unless the pressure in that interface is taken off--I fail to understand how cutting anywhere else would relieve the pressure?
I saw that same video--in fact bought all of the same equipment per the video--I estimate I achieved somewhere around 300 lbs torque and the barrel still wouldn't budge--but it was a 30 year old gun so who knows what else might be going on. While the video makes it look "easy peasy"--it isn't--and legacy sports int put me in touch with their only howa certified gunsmith in the US and he told me not only do they use a 20 ton hydraulic press to remove barrels from howa actions--but that it's not uncommon that even that won't work and that's when they resort to the 200 ton "piranha" vise to crush down the barrel to get it off.
Colorado Redneck
New member
Would heating the action while freezing the barrel help loosen the threads? Packing the barrel in ice and very lightly heating the action, maybe with a blow dryer. I read on another forum, in one post, thread penetrating solvent was allowed to soak in overnight. The poster said his barrel came out easily. All of these ideas are great if it's some other guys gun. It seems dicey to me, trying to save a few bucks and risking ruining an action.
I have bought a savage 110 hunter rifle and had to send it back because a burr in the chamber would not allow a fired case to be ejected properly. After receiveing the rifle back it shot amazing and have since, had no problems with the rifle. My brother bought both of his boys a savage 110 storm for Christmas, because of the accustock they appealed to him (and me for that matter). One of the rifles came with a stripped stock screw hole. I was helping him get scopes mounted and the accustocks set and one screw behind the trigger guard just kept spinning. He called savage and they sent him another stock to replace it. However, when something is bought and paid for with hard earned money, the product purchased should be the best the company can produce. If that is the best Savage can produce on 2 out of 3 rifles then I am done as well.
Geezerbiker
New member
The gunsmith that rebarreled my 1909 Argentine Mauser said that he did the same thing when he took off the old military barrel. He said it was the only way to be sure and get the old barrel off without damaging the receiver. I didn't argue since the original barrel was monumentally trashed...