Good scope for 100-600 yards

Those pictures taken through that scope are too much out of focus to resolve the reticle and target clearly. He didn't adjust the scope eyepiece to focus on the reticle to make it focus on the camera image plane. It was set for his aiming eye.
 
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Zach- That is the one I have- It is great. Tracks perfect. Glass is very good. The 2 things about it though. 44mm obj- to small for me. The tracking knobs, I shoot off a bag. They turn very easy. Have to watch to make sure you dont turn them by accident. They spin way to easy and there are no covers to put on them

Bart- That does make sense- I will have to check it out this summer. I have a very nice Nikon scope on one of my 22's.
 
Here's how you align a scope's black reticle to a white dot on a dark gray bullseye target when the dot doesn't appear as wide as the reticle line is thick:

Thickhairthinspot.jpg


Big dot's a bit wider and little one's much smaller.

The repeatability's as good as if the dot was 3 times as wide as the reticle wire is thick. Tiny, yes, but good vision will resolve it.
 
That would help if all you're concerned with is group size.

If you're trying to hit the dots, it's not going to help much
 
Anyone can adjust the scope so bullets hit away from the reticle center.

The reverse happens when one gets a zero:

* at a different range.

* with different ammo.

* if someone else shoots the rifle.

* when the wind changes and holding off isn't done.

When shooting an international running boar (now politically corrected to 'moving target' to please the animal lovers) match aiming at the small ten ring using a quadruple reticle adjustment scope. Each one is offset in windage and elevation to have a built-in lead for both left and right runs. Such scopes have two windage and two elevation knobs and the line of fire is between the two reticle points.

http://www.nickel-ag.com/en/products/scopes/r41656.aspx

A common practice in smallbore matches at 100 yards is putting the scope reticle up and left of target center for a 9 o'clock wind or down and right for a wind from 3. Sometimes the aiming point is 3 inches away from center where the bullets hit.

Where do you aim to hit the vitals of running game that's moving at right angles to you going uphill or downhill?

Ever hear about "Kentucky windage" or "Tennessee elevation?" You can do both at the same time.
 
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Now I've shot and killed running deer, I usually lead em by a fence post, or their body length depending on speed. I sure would like to try the running boar target....sounds like good times to me.
 
Anyone can adjust the scope so bullets hit away from the reticle center.
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But no one does outside of possibly some specialty competitions

Ever hear about "Kentucky windage" or "Tennessee elevation?" You can do both at the same time.
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Sure you can, if you know which way they are going to move in advance
 
You're right, Snyper.

Nobody ever sights in a rifle at 100 yards to put bullets centered some distance above their point of aim to get a "point blank" setting for their ammo to some down range point.

Nobody ever holds off from desired bullet impact on the target to compensate for bullet drop or cross winds.

Everyone dials in their sights for each inch of range and ips of wind change so bullet impact is always perfectly centered on the scope reticle.
 
You're right, Snyper.

Nobody ever sights in a rifle at 100 yards to put bullets centered some distance above their point of aim to get a "point blank" setting for their ammo to some down range point.

Nobody ever holds off from desired bullet impact on the target to compensate for bullet drop or cross winds.
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Now you're talking apples and oranges, and neither of those are the same as "zeroing" a scope so the POI is not in line with the reticles, which is what I was talking about.

The picture with the dots only works if you know the size of the dots in advance, and wont work at all with the "quartering" method you say you use.
Everyone dials in their sights for each inch of range and ips of wind change so bullet impact is always perfectly centered on the scope reticle.
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If you "dial in" corrections, it seems foolish to still have to hold off the intended target

"Holding off" is not "dialing in"
They are two different methods of acheiving the same goal
 
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Snyper, you aren't ahead in this discussion.

With my 'set and forget' scopes (no turrets), I hold up and or to the side for distance and windage. With a turret scope, dial for elevation and hold for windage.

What I don't do is adjust scope reticles left or right of the intended POI. I have, however, noticed that the gremlins that live in my gun safe have often made adjustments without my knowledge or permission.
 
Snyper, you aren't ahead in this discussion.

With my 'set and forget' scopes (no turrets), I hold up and or to the side for distance and windage. With a turret scope, dial for elevation and hold for windage.

What I don't do is adjust scope reticles left or right of the intended POI.

I have, however, noticed that the gremlins that live in my gun safe have often made adjustments without my knowledge or permission.
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You basically just said the same things I have

You either dial, or hold, but doing both at once makes no sense
 
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