Tactical Jackalope
New member
You just have to either keep your finger on the trigger when you take it down or you have I press it a second time. Not a big deal at all. I'll try and post a video.
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glock triggers: 3.5lbs connector, NY1 trigger spring, and 25 cents trigger job?
- Thread starter hlds54
- Start date
You just have to either keep your finger on the trigger when you take it down or you have I press it a second time. Not a big deal at all. I'll try and post a video.
Tactical Jackalope
New member
and theres the maritime spring cups
Just leave the triggers stock, I feel its pretty easy to shoot the stock setup
The stock triggers are great. This setup which is pretty much factory but not stock is just better for a lot of people.
My $.02 My only experience with the 3.5 lb connector was on a used gun I bought. The factory parts were still in the box so I had a chance to try both. I have found the factory 5.5 lb setup to work best. There is a little take up as you pull the trigger, but after that the trigger is as crisp as anything I've fired. I'd rather have a crisp 5-6 lb trigger than a mushy 3-4 lb trigger.
Tactical Jackalope
New member
I have a Gen3 G19. I think the trigger is great. Did I get some rare gem? I see people always fussing over the Glock trigger and I've always wondered why. What exactly do this mods do?
Stock triggers are great. Most of my Glocks run them.
Only different with this set up is a much more crisp break and much more tactile and audible reset. I only have this setup on my CCW because it's excellent for carry though a "pound" heavier it's much more of a better trigger.
Also, the stock spring is under constant tension and being pulled apart. This NY1 spring pushes when needed and is indestructible. A thick piece of plastic with a spring in the middle that doesn't even have to be there to run.
Trigger work? I work on my triggers all the time.
Dry fire, dry fire, dry fire, dry fire...
I generally assign more value to practice than I do to trigger jobs. While I understand that they two are not mutually exclusive, I also understand that stock Glock triggers aren't exactly obstacles that need to be overcome. I've fired plenty of pistols with trigger kits and jobs on them, and I see no reason to bother with changing my Glock triggers.
now, SIGHTS, on the other hand... UUUUGGGGHHHHHHHH... change them.
Dry fire, dry fire, dry fire, dry fire...
I generally assign more value to practice than I do to trigger jobs. While I understand that they two are not mutually exclusive, I also understand that stock Glock triggers aren't exactly obstacles that need to be overcome. I've fired plenty of pistols with trigger kits and jobs on them, and I see no reason to bother with changing my Glock triggers.
now, SIGHTS, on the other hand... UUUUGGGGHHHHHHHH... change them.
That's the setup I use and I like it. A lot.
It is IMHO far superior than the sum of it's parts. I did not care for the "-" connecter by it's self at all. It was the first time that the trigger felt legitimately "mushy". But the addition of the NY1 spring got rid of all the mushiness, and greatly improved things over all.
Polishing contact surfaces is kind of a no-brainer no matter what the rest of your set up is - or what gun you're carrying for that matter.
Also, having a stiffer take up - for a carry gun - would make it more difficult to inadvertently pull the trigger in a adrenaline-laced SD situation, and make it that much harder for any foreign object that winds up in the trigger guard to cause a UD.
Finally, I spent the extra $3-4 to get the OEM "-" connecter, so it still is technically "stock", in that every part in my gun was made by Glock.
If you don't wind up liking it, that's your prerogative, but I too liked the out-of-the-box trigger, and I still like this set up better.
But I'll echo what Constantine said. Where it really shines is shooting, not dry-firing.
You do have to either keep the trigger pulled, or pull it a second time during take-down as the NY1 spring pushes it forward part way after you pull it. But you get used to that pretty quick.
And the best part is, that with the prices of the parts - even if you do hate it you're only out like $25.
It is IMHO far superior than the sum of it's parts. I did not care for the "-" connecter by it's self at all. It was the first time that the trigger felt legitimately "mushy". But the addition of the NY1 spring got rid of all the mushiness, and greatly improved things over all.
Polishing contact surfaces is kind of a no-brainer no matter what the rest of your set up is - or what gun you're carrying for that matter.
Also, having a stiffer take up - for a carry gun - would make it more difficult to inadvertently pull the trigger in a adrenaline-laced SD situation, and make it that much harder for any foreign object that winds up in the trigger guard to cause a UD.
Finally, I spent the extra $3-4 to get the OEM "-" connecter, so it still is technically "stock", in that every part in my gun was made by Glock.
If you don't wind up liking it, that's your prerogative, but I too liked the out-of-the-box trigger, and I still like this set up better.
But I'll echo what Constantine said. Where it really shines is shooting, not dry-firing.
You do have to either keep the trigger pulled, or pull it a second time during take-down as the NY1 spring pushes it forward part way after you pull it. But you get used to that pretty quick.
And the best part is, that with the prices of the parts - even if you do hate it you're only out like $25.
Tactical Jackalope
New member
Exactly. ^ I love it and it's still factory Glock parts and technically makes the trigger pull heavier but more crisp. It's so hard to explain. Just shoot it.
chrisintexas
New member
how about just NY1 trigger and standard connector? how you feel about this trigger pull?
chrisintexas
New member
how do you field strip a glock with ny1 trigger and standard connector?
With any of the NY springs installed, it may be necessary to hold the trigger to the rear while removing the slide. The NY springs tend to put more upwards force on the trigger bar than the standard coil springs and that can cause the trigger bar/sear to float upwards and block the striker as the slide comes off.
So field stripping is the same with one exception--hold the trigger to the rear while the slide is coming off.
So field stripping is the same with one exception--hold the trigger to the rear while the slide is coming off.
I'm running a "-" connector with a NY1 spring in both my G19 and my G32. Didn't bother with the polishing. While it's maybe 1/2 to 1 lb heavier, mostly it's just that its pretty much full weight from the start, instead of starting kind of mushy and then building. Good solid reset.
I wouldn't recommend going to the 3.5 lb with standard spring on a carry gun. You use it and in court the fact that you lightened the trigger will come back bite you. They will check.
The NY1 spring was to give close to a Da pull, around 10 lbs. They decided it was still too light, and the NY2 was made, getting up around 13 lbs.
You want a heavy trigger? Put in a "+" with a NY2 spring, takes two men and a boy to pull it. We did it at my first armorers class just to show what it was like.
I wouldn't recommend going to the 3.5 lb with standard spring on a carry gun. You use it and in court the fact that you lightened the trigger will come back bite you. They will check.
The NY1 spring was to give close to a Da pull, around 10 lbs. They decided it was still too light, and the NY2 was made, getting up around 13 lbs.
You want a heavy trigger? Put in a "+" with a NY2 spring, takes two men and a boy to pull it. We did it at my first armorers class just to show what it was like.