Glock trigger upgrades?

R

Runs With Fire

New member
I'm looking to swap out the stock trigger on my gen 2 Glock 20. I see several options, but I don't really know how they compare. I want a nice crisp break. Mabey a bit lighter trigger pull than stock, but the current trigger pull weight doesn't really bother me much. What experience or opinions do you guys have about after market Glock triggers?
 
Several years ago I put a Ghost connector in my G20/g2. It is the one that you have to file the overtravel stop little by little until the trigger works and then you file a little more. They are(were) fairly inexpensive, like $20-30 and was a noticeable improvement.
 
I have the complete APEX drop in trigger setup in my Gen3 Glock 17. The complete APEX assy. is a new Gen3 trigger bar with the APEX aluminum trigger shoe & safety and the APEX minus connector and APEX firing pin block plunger. Then I have the trigger bar takeoff from the 17 on my Gen3 19, which also has the APEX minus connector and APEX firing pin block plunger.

I like these APEX setups since I get a nice rolling trigger break without having to change the striker, FPB plunger, or trigger return springs. I think you might be fine to just swap out the stock parts for the APEX minus connector and APEX firing pin block plunger, which would cost about $40 for these parts.
 
Dryfire

I swapped a part in my gen 3 that was supposed to reduce the trigger to 3 lbs. from 5 lbs. I did not like it and put the original back in place.

I then did hours of dryfire. Now I would not change a thing.
 
After experimenting with multiple connectors, springs, tigger bars, and shoes I'll give you a quick breakdown.

First, do the $.99 cent trigger job (I used a dremel with a cotton head), a bit of Flitz and polish the connector, trigger bar where it touches the connector, safety plunger, and any area's where parts rub. This will reduce the trigger pull slightly (<.5 lb) but also make everything much more smooth in the pull.

I would start here, but if you want to tinker, here's what I found.

With Glock triggers, it's all about trade offs.

If you want a really light pull you can go with a 3.5 lb/ "-" connector, but the way this is achieved is by changing the slope of the connector. What this does is add a lot more creep to the trigger, so you will reduce the "wall" and have more of a pull through without a clear defined break vs. other connectors.

The next option is the "Dot" connector. This connector was put in the later versions of the Gen 4 Glocks as the Gen 4 trigger bar has a much steeper angle than the Gen 3 and Gen 2 Trigger bar's do. This has a slight angle, about 50% between the "Standard" trigger bar and the 3.5 lb connectors. It gives a nice balance of lighter trigger break with minimal creep, but there still is some creep.

Also, the "Dot" connector with the Gen 3 or prior trigger bars will feel more like a Gen 4 with a 3.5 lb connector as the geometry of the Gen 3 trigger bars is less steep than that of the Gen 4's.

Next, there is the "Standard" connector. This will give a heavier trigger pull, especially on the Gen 4's, but with a much more defined wall and much crisper break.

Finally there's the NY connector, Just avoid this unless you want an insanely stiff pull.

On the Gen 3's it gives a similar feel to the Gen 4's with the dot connector, however on the gen 4's it gives an impressively clean break. The downside to the Gen 4 + Standard trigger bar is your trigger pull is typically approaching 6 LB+.

I personally found latest version of the stock setup with extremely polished internals to be the best option (I have a Gen 4 and currently run it with the Gen 4 trigger bar, Dot connector, and an aftermarket flat faced trigger shoe.)

The final thing you have as an option to adjust the trigger break is the striker spring. You can go with a lighter striker spring to lighten the pull (4.5 or 5 lb striker spring), however note, by changing this you may get light primer strikes on certain types of primers (CCI, winchester).

My favorite trigger combo in my Gen 4 was the Standard connector with the 5lb trigger pull, it was a bit over 5 lb and extremely clean and crisp.

With that said, I changed this out as my Gen 4 Glock 19 is my home defense handgun and I don't want to run a lighter striker spring in it, So I have settled on the dot connector with the stock 5.5 lb striker spring.

I hope that helps, I spent way too much money testing different options and combinations just to find out the guys at glock might know what they are doing.

With that said, A simple high gloss polish with some flitz and a dremmel can do wonders in cleaning up the pull.
 
Ricklin said:
I swapped a part in my gen 3 that was supposed to reduce the trigger to 3 lbs. from 5 lbs. I did not like it and put the original back in place.

I then did hours of dryfire. Now I would not change a thing.
Click to expand...

Similar path.

I tried the NY1 spring + minus connector combo that everyone on "the Innernet" said is wonderful and the way to go. Did not care for it, swapped it back right there at the range.

Further down the line I swapped the stock Glock serrated trigger for a Glock OEM smooth face trigger, and ran with it. Everything smoothed up eventually, and now I'm fine with it.

2 pieces of wisdom from the experience. 1)Don't believe everything you read on the Internet. Joe Dunning-Krueger on the forums does not know better than the manufacturer, usually. And, 2) If one has to fiddle so much with the trigger to make it acceptable, maybe they got the wrong gun.
 
Given you have a Gen 2, make sure the triggers you’re looking at will work in your pistol.


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lee_n_field: said:
2 pieces of wisdom from the experience. 1)Don't believe everything you read on the Internet. Joe Dunning-Krueger on the forums does not know better than the manufacturer, usually. And, 2) If one has to fiddle so much with the trigger to make it acceptable, maybe they got the wrong gun.
Click to expand...

If any drop in Glock trigger parts negatively affect reliability of the firearm, put the stock parts back in the gun. I think that the ZEV and Pyramid trigger setups that I have seen are a little too light for a Glock intended for carry, but the ones Ive seen have combinations of lighter striker, firing pin block, and trigger return springs that I wouldn’t want for carry, anybody else’s mileage may vary. You use the stock springs with APEX parts.

OBTW, my modded Glock triggers are limited to my 2 Gen3’s, and these can be switched back to stock config in no time. The triggers on my Gen4 21 and my 19X are stock.
 
I have the Agency Arms and Zev triggers for my Glock 43. The Agency Arms uses a small roll pin to secure the trigger safety, and it almost worked itself out on me. I sent it back to Them and they replaced it, but I ended up finding a great deal on the Zev and put that in instead.

The first thing you will notice with these is a significant reduction in the up before you get to the wall. If you place the stock Glock trigger and the”upgraded’ tRiggers side by side, you will see how much more movement (pivot) there is on the stock trigger. Some may see this as “safer’, but I prefer the shorter stroke. Both triggers break cleanly, especially with ‘upgraded” connectors. I had the Ghost Pro with the over travel stop pin, but you really have to take a little extra off past where it breaks or else it leads to light strikes. I think the Agency Arms has a slightly shorter reset, but the Zev is also very good.

I admit that I am a trigger snob. I hate the spongy Glock trigger When they first came out. All of their other attributes won me over and I just upgraded the trigger.
 
I've put a zev trigger with trigger bar in a couple of Glocks. It doesn't change the weight or length of pull, which I have no problem with. The smooth trigger and the drop safety that lies flat with the trigger face upon depressing makes for a much more comfortable experience when you're two hundred rounds deep into a shooting session.
 
I've tried all sorts of combinations in the 18 years I've owned Glocks but I settled on a simple, easy, 3 minute swap of 2 parts, a Lone Wolf 3.5# connector HERE and a 6lb trigger spring HERE. Coupled with the 25¢ trigger job HERE that takes but a few minutes, the higher weight, 6lb trigger spring works with the pull, not against it so it both takes up the slack in the trigger and helps to lighten the pull. The combo is reliable and doesn't compromise any safety of the pistol. No, it's not going to make it like a 1911's trigger but it will help your Glock while keeping it fully functional.
 
COSteve said:
I've tried all sorts of combinations in the 18 years I've owned Glocks but I settled on a simple, easy, 3 minute swap of 2 parts, a Lone Wolf 3.5# connector HERE and a 6lb trigger spring HERE. Coupled with the 25¢ trigger job HERE that takes but a few minutes, the higher weight, 6lb trigger spring works with the pull, not against it so it both takes up the slack in the trigger and helps to lighten the pull. The combo is reliable and doesn't compromise any safety of the pistol. No, it's not going to make it like a 1911's trigger but it will help your Glock while keeping it fully functional.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I may try that. I think my biggest problem with the NY1&minus connector combo was with what the NY1 did with how the trigger worked.
 
I do not like the 3.5lb connectors at all, it will cause a ton of mushiness and creep.

Depending on the generation, the Standard connector or the minus connector is a good balance of having a nice defined wall with minimal creep. To lighten it, you can go with a lighter striker spring or a slightly stronger trigger spring (Be careful not to go too strong on the trigger spring or it may cause issues as well)
 
Due to the geometry difference with the 10mm/45ACP frame thickness, the standard 5# trigger connector causes these guns to have about an 8# trigger pull. I swapped out mine with a 3.5# Ghost connector on my G30S and my trigger pull is now just a little over 5# and smooth. I had performed the $0.25 trigger job 1st and that smoothed things up but the +8# pull wasn't what I wanted. Now my G30S and gen 4 G19 triggers feel the same.
 
Glock triggers will never be anything close to a 1911 trigger, a good CZ trigger, or a browning hi-power trigger, just by the nature of what the Glock trigger needs to accomplish.

First, the Glock trigger will always have the safety integrated into it. Second, it will always need to pull the firing pin back a bit before it will fire. Personally, that's why I never bought another Glock - I just don't like the trigger. Yes, I tried the Ghost trigger (have it installed presently in fact) and polishing the original trigger parts - neither of which provided any noticeable difference to me.

The bottom line - I just like a good double-action/single action, hammer fired gun over the Glock or Glock-a-likes. I would love for Glock to make a SAO version with a thumb safety; or a da/sa version with a manual safety and no trigger dingus. But, that's just not what Glock is all about.:(
 
You don't need to. But to each his own.
I have an Overwatch Falx trigger shoe which used the OEM trigger bar coated in NP3+ along with a stock trigger return spring and a polished minus connector.

Very clean break and pull.
 
If it is a defensive handgun, don't go fiddling with the trigger.

based on the way the glock trigger system works, a lighter pull weight will generally result in a mushier trigger with a less crisp break. assuming it is not a defensive handgun you can do a trigger job easily there are a ton of videos on youtube. in general you polish the trigger bar where it contacts the connector. they are stamped parts and generally fairly rough. a polish smooths things out nicely.
 
I got the 3.5 lb Ghost connector and a competition spring kit for my G23 I carried as a duty weapon. I loved the trigger, but not for duty.

I carried it for about three years before retiring, and during that time I pulled off shots too early while not even being under stress During training. You add the stress of a critical incident and you could very well hurt, kill and/or damage something/someone you didn’t want to.

My first duty weapon was a S&W 5906, which was a single/double so i thought that was the best setup - a relatively hard first pull followed up with a nice single action, due to learning about the tache psyche effect. Time went by when we went to Glock Safe Action and double action only pistols. I was good with Glock, but not with the double actions I carried...until they just were the norm. After a while, I bought into having the same trigger pull each time so I didn’t miss single/double anymore. Those DAOs were: a Beretta 7040D Cougar, an Hk USP stainless slide .40 and a Beretta - my longest carried duty weapon.

After 8 duty weapons, I finally went back to Glock with that G23. I sold it to a new officer the day after I retired, and I handed him the original connector and springs. I have no idea if he ever installed them even after advising him it was wise to do so.

So, my advice is to be fully aware of what you are doing lightening the trigger on a firearm you may use while under stressful conditions because that tache psyche effect may bite you in the .....
 
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