Glock 10mm

Quote:
stagpanther: My first 20 featured Glock's stock barrel which I personally considered unsafe for use of true 10mm full-power cartridges due to scanty case head support.
So, did you switch out the barrel? If so, to what and how hard was it to do, that is any hand fitting or was it a drop in conversion? Note: I would assume the new barrel would get rid of the 'Glock bulge' too.

That said, I really can't think the stock Glock 10mm is dangerous or they'd have been sued into oblivion by now. Just my opinion.Quote:
stagpanther: My first 20 featured Glock's stock barrel which I personally considered unsafe for use of true 10mm full-power cartridges due to scanty case head support.
So, did you switch out the barrel? If so, to what and how hard was it to do, that is any hand fitting or was it a drop in conversion? Note: I would assume the new barrel would get rid of the 'Glock bulge' too.

That said, I really can't think the stock Glock 10mm is dangerous or they'd have been sued into oblivion by now. Just my opinion.
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IMO, the original gen 3 G20 that I bought was made for mostly "watered down" 10mm--not up to Bren 10 or more power levels, and thus that's how you got the infamous smilies, the ramp/shroud simply left too much of the case head unsupported to be firing the "hot stuff." Again, just my opinion and how I felt destroying my cases after firing them.

Switching out the barrel is no harder than removing and replacing the stock barrel. I prefer a titanium or SS main spring rod and single spring anyway, I bought one and got a set of higher power springs--but I figure you won't need to do that if you are moving down to 40 S&W. I'm not sure what stock main springs are on 20's these days, I think my came around 18 lbs but I put a 20# one on for the stuff I shoot. Lots of people make good barrels with good support, like Lone Wolf, Storm Lake etc.
 
JohnKSa, I feel you argued my post but we had the same conclusion. Looking back, I didn't explain my "liking my fingers" comment.

I would not do it.

You comment on bullet jump is theoretically right. 38/40 "jump" the difference in a revolver for 357mag/10mm. But in an auto, that nice little area supporting the case is free wheeling for the shorter rounds up to the actual step into the chamber. That whole free play is the extractor issue. Extractor gets to much force on it as things aren't locked up tight. Agree.

Absolutely agree with you. And like we both said, I wouldn't do it for that reason.
 
I had no issues with the 29 or 20 shooting .40 ammo, but only enough to make sure it would work in an emergency.
I got KKM conversion barrels for both.
The conversion barrels had the advantage of being much more accurate with plated bullets than the stock barrels, and I could use small primers.
Shot a lot more 40 after buying the conversions, never a bobble, very accurate.
 
Looking back, I didn't explain my "liking my fingers" comment.
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I understood what you were saying--I agree that whatever risk exists is unlikely to occur. I try to be conservative on such things because even an unlikely danger is probably worth avoiding if it costs nothing to do so and I think that's what you were saying too.

I think a lot of people have the feeling that this issue must either be exactly the same as the 38/357 compatibility where .38Spl rounds are perfectly safe in a .357Mag gun, or it must be really dangerous. Reality is that it's somewhere in between. It's not a truly compatible combination in autopistols, but the risk of a catastrophic outcome seems to be pretty low.
 
Thanks for the info Stagpanther.

I've been mulling over a barrel replacement for a while now, mostly to get a conventionally rifled barrel instead of the polygonal barrel because of Glock's advice on not shooting lead bullets out of the polygonal barrel. I reload and like using the cheaper lead bullets. You've added more info.

FYI: I've had a fascination with the 10mm since reading Col Cooper's writing about the cartridge and got a Gen 3 Glock 20 SF about a year before the pandemic and all the ammunition dried up. I guess 10mm isn't all that popular around here as that lasted longer on the shelves than more popular cartridges and I did manage to pull in a goodly supply before even it disappeared.
 
I understood what you were saying--I agree that whatever risk exists is unlikely to occur. I try to be conservative on such things because even an unlikely danger is probably worth avoiding if it costs nothing to do so and I think that's what you were saying too.
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And then there are people like me--if it can go wrong or someone make a mistake with it--those odds go up significantly with me.:)
 
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