stagpanther
New member
IMO, the original gen 3 G20 that I bought was made for mostly "watered down" 10mm--not up to Bren 10 or more power levels, and thus that's how you got the infamous smilies, the ramp/shroud simply left too much of the case head unsupported to be firing the "hot stuff." Again, just my opinion and how I felt destroying my cases after firing them.Quote:
stagpanther: My first 20 featured Glock's stock barrel which I personally considered unsafe for use of true 10mm full-power cartridges due to scanty case head support.
So, did you switch out the barrel? If so, to what and how hard was it to do, that is any hand fitting or was it a drop in conversion? Note: I would assume the new barrel would get rid of the 'Glock bulge' too.
That said, I really can't think the stock Glock 10mm is dangerous or they'd have been sued into oblivion by now. Just my opinion.Quote:
stagpanther: My first 20 featured Glock's stock barrel which I personally considered unsafe for use of true 10mm full-power cartridges due to scanty case head support.
So, did you switch out the barrel? If so, to what and how hard was it to do, that is any hand fitting or was it a drop in conversion? Note: I would assume the new barrel would get rid of the 'Glock bulge' too.
That said, I really can't think the stock Glock 10mm is dangerous or they'd have been sued into oblivion by now. Just my opinion.
Switching out the barrel is no harder than removing and replacing the stock barrel. I prefer a titanium or SS main spring rod and single spring anyway, I bought one and got a set of higher power springs--but I figure you won't need to do that if you are moving down to 40 S&W. I'm not sure what stock main springs are on 20's these days, I think my came around 18 lbs but I put a 20# one on for the stuff I shoot. Lots of people make good barrels with good support, like Lone Wolf, Storm Lake etc.