Some folks have asked, so here's some ideas and suggestions for those who want to get into the clay sports, These are NOT on a tablet of stone, and since I'm a generalist, I hope some of the folks who are better at the various games will contribute what they know also...
One of the vitals is an overview of the sports. Your local library has a number of books under Dewey Decimal System 799. A bit of light reading here can work wonders.
The Big Three of the clay games are trap, skeet, and sporting clays.I won't go into the technical parts here, just suffice it to say that trap guns are choked tight, and usually stocked to hit above POA. Skeet and Clay guns shoot flatter, tho center of pattern may be slightly above POA, and use chokes more open than Modified, for the most part.
Gun weight plays a part,most shotguns for the games run over 8 lbs, for smooth and steady swings as well as cutting that kick a bit.
Balance ties in here, I like a bit more muzzleheaviness on the range than I do on an upland gun. Longer bbls help here, tho I rigged up a bbl weight that also does the job on my bunty 21" bird 870. A standard 28" bbl is a good choice.
And a recoil pad makes sense,tho they seem almost universal these days anyway.
Needless to say, having your shotgun hitting where it's supposed to greatly increases hits and fun.
SHOTGUNS:
The most commonly used action types are various semi autos and the O/U. Both have their adherents,as well as drawbacks and advantages.O/Us have a choke selection,Semis can have a little less perceived kick.
Can you use your present shotgun? Of course. Even if it's a riot bbled, accessorized and GR sighted Loudenboomer Mag. You may not score as high, but there's no guarantee that using one isn't fun. Besides, it's fun to see how the Wine and Brie crowd deals with this, especially when you're dusting more than they do(G)....
BTW, many of that Wine and Brie crowd are good folks and dedicated shotgunners,so behave....
Choke tubes are practically universal in the clay games. For clays and skeet, try Skeet I, IC, and Skeet II tubes,and maybe keep a Modified handy for a few shots.For trap, I'd go with IM or Full. I tend to stick with IC for clays, but lots of folks who swap tubes on the course outscore me. It's your call here...
SHELLS:
I recommend that everyone start out with 1 oz loads for a simple reason. Most folks have no idea what it's like to shoot 50-200 shotgun shells in one session. Kick gets cumulative, and a 1 oz load kicks way less than a 1 1/8 oz load.
Find a 1 oz load in 7 1/2, 8, (or 9s if you're doing skeet) that patterns well in your shotgun and buy a lot of it. Consistency is a requirement while you're learning,and bulk buys run a little cheaper per shot...
The cheap field loads sold as game or dove loads will work, but usually patterns are better with a trap or skeet load. Harder shot, better wads, etc, all contribute. One can choke a little tighter and use the cheaper stuff, but it can cut down on the pattern size, causing some misses.
OTHER EQUIPMENT:
Eye and ear protection are mandatory. Plugs are the most common form of ear protection, but some folks use both. I do, to protect what's left of my hearing. I'm 54, and my ears work about as well as those of most 70 year olds.
Vests are a great accessory. Get one with big pockets for shells, and a bit of padding in the shoulder area. The Bob Allen entry level skeet vest is nice,and not that expensive.
If you want to skip the vest, that's your call also, but I do urge you to consider a wearable recoil pad, then. Trust me, this will help you enjoy the sport and counter any flinch building.
Comfortable shoes are mandatory, and they should have a bit of traction.I like Rockport loafers, or a light hiking boot.
Clothing should fit the weather, and not confine your movements. Bean and Orvis have some great shooting shirts, but a polo shirt works well too. Jeans are fine.
For those that hunt, wearing your hunting clothes for a round or two might point out some problems before that NW Territories goose jaunt.
Finally, whine and beg until someone who knows the game takes you through a round or two. Doing beats being shown by miles.
Hope this helps, any questions, sing out...
One of the vitals is an overview of the sports. Your local library has a number of books under Dewey Decimal System 799. A bit of light reading here can work wonders.
The Big Three of the clay games are trap, skeet, and sporting clays.I won't go into the technical parts here, just suffice it to say that trap guns are choked tight, and usually stocked to hit above POA. Skeet and Clay guns shoot flatter, tho center of pattern may be slightly above POA, and use chokes more open than Modified, for the most part.
Gun weight plays a part,most shotguns for the games run over 8 lbs, for smooth and steady swings as well as cutting that kick a bit.
Balance ties in here, I like a bit more muzzleheaviness on the range than I do on an upland gun. Longer bbls help here, tho I rigged up a bbl weight that also does the job on my bunty 21" bird 870. A standard 28" bbl is a good choice.
And a recoil pad makes sense,tho they seem almost universal these days anyway.
Needless to say, having your shotgun hitting where it's supposed to greatly increases hits and fun.
SHOTGUNS:
The most commonly used action types are various semi autos and the O/U. Both have their adherents,as well as drawbacks and advantages.O/Us have a choke selection,Semis can have a little less perceived kick.
Can you use your present shotgun? Of course. Even if it's a riot bbled, accessorized and GR sighted Loudenboomer Mag. You may not score as high, but there's no guarantee that using one isn't fun. Besides, it's fun to see how the Wine and Brie crowd deals with this, especially when you're dusting more than they do(G)....
BTW, many of that Wine and Brie crowd are good folks and dedicated shotgunners,so behave....
Choke tubes are practically universal in the clay games. For clays and skeet, try Skeet I, IC, and Skeet II tubes,and maybe keep a Modified handy for a few shots.For trap, I'd go with IM or Full. I tend to stick with IC for clays, but lots of folks who swap tubes on the course outscore me. It's your call here...
SHELLS:
I recommend that everyone start out with 1 oz loads for a simple reason. Most folks have no idea what it's like to shoot 50-200 shotgun shells in one session. Kick gets cumulative, and a 1 oz load kicks way less than a 1 1/8 oz load.
Find a 1 oz load in 7 1/2, 8, (or 9s if you're doing skeet) that patterns well in your shotgun and buy a lot of it. Consistency is a requirement while you're learning,and bulk buys run a little cheaper per shot...
The cheap field loads sold as game or dove loads will work, but usually patterns are better with a trap or skeet load. Harder shot, better wads, etc, all contribute. One can choke a little tighter and use the cheaper stuff, but it can cut down on the pattern size, causing some misses.
OTHER EQUIPMENT:
Eye and ear protection are mandatory. Plugs are the most common form of ear protection, but some folks use both. I do, to protect what's left of my hearing. I'm 54, and my ears work about as well as those of most 70 year olds.
Vests are a great accessory. Get one with big pockets for shells, and a bit of padding in the shoulder area. The Bob Allen entry level skeet vest is nice,and not that expensive.
If you want to skip the vest, that's your call also, but I do urge you to consider a wearable recoil pad, then. Trust me, this will help you enjoy the sport and counter any flinch building.
Comfortable shoes are mandatory, and they should have a bit of traction.I like Rockport loafers, or a light hiking boot.
Clothing should fit the weather, and not confine your movements. Bean and Orvis have some great shooting shirts, but a polo shirt works well too. Jeans are fine.
For those that hunt, wearing your hunting clothes for a round or two might point out some problems before that NW Territories goose jaunt.
Finally, whine and beg until someone who knows the game takes you through a round or two. Doing beats being shown by miles.
Hope this helps, any questions, sing out...