Froglube-use it!

I just started using Frog Lube on some of my guns, and it is impressive so far. As has been mentioned you have to wipe off the excess, it leaves a very thin film that doesn't come off.

I warm up the parts with a heat gun and apply the paste with an old tooth brush to get it into every nook and cranny, then wipe it off.
 
That is an interesting sticky.

Personally, I fell for all the hype from the cult when Break Free came out. Not saying it's bad stuff just nothing like the fans chanted. I just got tired of buying it and started using Rem Oil and Ballistol since I figured it was tried and true, but after seeing the sticky now I'm being sucked back in.

I've heard so many mixed things about Froglube I lost interest. One fellow even tells me it's only good for barrels but you have to bake the barrel in the oven.

I now have a habit to kill the latest trend confusion with some simple rem oil and call it a day.

But now you all have me wondering again.
 
I've put frog lube on about half of my ARs/pistols and "regular" synthetic lube on the other half. Unfortunately, I haven't gotten out to shoot enough to make a real comparison...

It smells good and it seems to keep the rust monsters at bay, so...
 
I've seen this too, and I've heard this from several gunsmiths. But the problem isn't the Frog Lube, the problem is that people often use way too much of it. Part of what makes Frog Lube work so well is that it's a paste and it stays on the metal better. But that means that when people over-use it and glob the stuff into their guns, the excess won't run off the gun like a liquid lube will.

When used correctly, Frog Lube is the best lube I've ever used, hands down. I recently did a 500 round torture test with my Glock 19 and my Octane 9 silencer. We loaded up a huge stack of G19 and G17 mags and went to town, shooting as fast as we could shoot while still staying on target. The silencer and the metal parts on the Glock got so hot that they melted an oven mitt. The guide rod on my Gen 3 Glock even melted a little and now the end is slightly crooked, but it still works fine.

But after everything cooled down and the Glock was finally safe to touch, we took it apart. The insides had a thin coating of carbon and Frog Lube, and everything was still properly lubed with no gumming or excessive fouling. Keep in mind that a silencer puts way more carbon back into the action, so shooting suppressed dirties the gun at far more than double the rate than it would unsuppressed.

I put my regular non-threaded barrel back in and put a bunch more rounds through the Glock just to make sure that it still functioned even though the cap on the end of the guide rod had melted and was now at a slight angle. It worked fine. Then I just wiped down the outside of the gun and put it back into my normal carry rotation. Frog Lube is good stuff.
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100% correct!!

People are used to globing on their regular lube and think they can do the same with FL, they cant.
 
One reason and one reason only I don't use frog lube and I have a big tub of it . I was at the gun show and while passing the frog lube table . The guy asked if I use there product . I said I do but only on my handgun slides . I explained my reasons why and he then asked if I use ANY other products like Break free Hoppe's etc on the same firearms I use the frog lube . I told him yes all of them . He then said that by doing so I ruined the frog lube because if it mixes with any other product it does not work as intended . OK interesting but I guess that makes sense . He then started showing ALL the cleaning products I'd need in order to not have cross contamination of products . Well that was going to cost me $50 to $100 to replace ALL my cleaning and lube products I already have , use and know work .

Well that's just sounded stupid to me and I just laughed at him and thanked him for helping me understand not to EVER use frog lube on my guns . The look on his face was worth wearing on a shirt . :)
 
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Metal god said:
He then said that by doing so I ruined the frog lube because if it mixes with any other product it does not work as intended .
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That guy had no idea what he was talking about and it sounds like he was a terrible company rep. The company recommends against using petroleum-based solvents with Frog Lube, but that's it. I don't use the Frog Lube solvent because it's mediocre at best, I use Slip 2000 mostly, and sometimes M-Pro 7. And there's no problem with either.

But with Frog Lube paste, you really don't need to use much else; there's no reason to use another lube or protectant, and it works pretty well as a cleaner because it just wipes off with most of the carbon. I just use a dedicated solvent on high-carbon areas like around the gas rings on an AR bolt, or on the baffles of my pistol can.

By the way -- I don't want to make it sound like I'm some kind of crazy Frog Lube fanboy. Frog Lube might be the best lube I've ever used, but there are a lot of other lubes I haven't tried yet. I hear a lot of great things about FireClean and I want to try it.

But what annoys me is when people bad mouth Frog Lube based on rumor, or based on users who glob on way too much of it and then can't understand why their gun is gummed up.
 
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Theohazard said:
That guy had no idea what he was talking about and it sounds like he was a terrible company rep. The company recommends against using petroleum-based solvents with Frog Lube, but that's it.
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What do you think "oil" is? I won't have anything to do with a purported lubricant that won't coexist harmoniously with oil.
 
Aguila Blanca said:
What do you think "oil" is? I won't have anything to do with a purported lubricant that won't coexist harmoniously with oil.
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And that's fine, but it's not a big deal to me. After all, why would I need to use oil if I'm already using Frog Lube as a lubricant and protectant?
 
My thought was , and I could be wrong . That when I do my deep cleaning . I have Hoppe's and other products on everything while I scrub with a brass brush or other cleaning tools . If I were to then use froglube I need to what, spray the whole gun down with carb cleaner or the like to remove all other product residue . Yeah no thanks I'll stick with my Boreshine , Hoppe's , Slip2000 , Corrosion X . They all seem to work just fine . Maybe I'd use Froglube If that was the only product I use . How ever I have many $ worth in other products I'm not ready to just throw out or never use again .
 
that's what I'm saying.
I keep my firearms for a long time.
I even have one from 1990.

No rust. No problems. On any.
I do clean within 2 days of use though.

The only thing I've used is Rem Oil and Ballistol.
 
I've used it in both cold and hot weather without issue. If it gums up or runs, guys are using way too much.

Additionally, I still use a little gun oil every few cleanings. To me, the real sweet thing with Frog Lube is how well it works to clean your guns and once you've used it a bit, cleaning is even easier.
 
"I keep my firearms for a long time.
I even have one from 1990."

No offence, but that made me snicker. I only have one gun made after 1990. The rest go back to early 1900's through the 70's.

And to keep on topic, I've never used Frog Lube, and don't intend to as long as my old tried-and-true method with Hoppes, brake cleaner, Remoil, and grease keeps 'em rust free and running smooth. Especially now that I see that it's not compatible with petroleum products.
 
All this lube talk is nonsense. What we should be talking about the problems we are having with our guns that is related to lubrication and what we've done to solve said problem.

Has anybody worn out a gun prematurely due to an ineffective lube?
Has anybody had gun malfunction issues related to the type of lubrication?
Has anybody had rust issues related to the type of lube that was used?

The only thing I've read in this post that makes sense is that some folks have had function issues related to overusing Frog Lube causing the gun to get gummed up. Ok, don't over do it with the Frog Lube.
 
I used military oils as required for years.

After Slip 2000 came out I researched it and discovered that a carbine class instructor who likes it very much had previously demonstrated that even a feminine anti itch product would lube an AR. That weapon is considered a worst case example by many who never owned an HK91.

Subsequent to all that I read posts where a number of lubes were tested for longevity on steel plates and left exposed for a year outdoors. Some lubes were great, others surprisingly poor.

One lube caught my eye, it wasn't the front runner, but did well. I now use it exclusively and it works to my satisfaction. A $5 a quart I always have it on hand. It was designed as a mechanical lubricant with hydraulic oil properties under extended use intervals. It clings, lubricates, is incompressible, resists oxidation and rusting well, and because of it's mass production for other uses, it inexpensive and almost universally available.

Sounds good? Hope so. But if I say what it is, the higher priced Brand fans will jump in and derail the thread. So I'll keep quiet about it, as do many others who use it but don't talk about it. The point is that almost any lubricant which is formulated with some longevity in mind will work, but neglect can overcome them all.

A great many of us are more than aware of major ad campaigns to solicit sales of the next wonder lube, and we long ago concluded that if it was really any good, word of mouth in the community would be all that was needed.
 
Never been a fan of froglube. I hate that it smells like bengay.

I just use 50/50 mixture Mobil1 5w30 and BreakFree CLP. It works. Either one by itself would also work just fine.
 
No frog slime for me.
Hoppes powder blast to dissolve. Wipe clean.
If really dirty then a good tooth brushing and shot of Ballistol afterward.
MPro-7 for a high quality oil/lube(rails). A little gun grease on the high friction areas.
 
I could see using it on my carry gun since I'm not a big fan of oil dripping on my cloths. Oil will tend to gum up and act as a lint magnet.
 
Which raises issues about our general move to minimalist holster, IWB, etc. Most gun finishes developed after blueing were corrosion preventatives, like phosphate, chrome, electroless nickel, nitriding, ceramic paint, etc. The point is to have a dry oil free surface.

Nobody much wants to carry a piece slicked down with bear grease to keep it from rusting. Even applied sparingly and just internally, it seems to seep from the working joints. And if carry close to the body is part of the routine, it will be exposed to high humidity.

That is the reason for the dry lubes and finishes added in the last decade. Low friction with no seeping. The M4 is treated with them now. Because it's leading edge only the leading edge shooters are doing it.

The rest of us are still 20 years behind exploring modern lubes, but if it pours out of a bottle, it's going to creep and stain clothing. Shooters are a very conservative bunch, accepting dry lubes isn't going to happen for another decade and even then it will be controversial.

When the makers tell us to clean it and wipe it dry with no added oils, it will become a topic. Until then, expect stains or run it uncomfortably dry.

What does Froglube do to clothing when it comes in contact?
 
tirod said:
What does Froglube do to clothing when it comes in contact?
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I actually don't know the answer to that question. I've carried a concealed handgun treated with Froglube all day, every day for almost three years now, and I've never had any of it seep out and stain my clothes.

I'm guessing that it won't stain, considering it's made from organic ingredients. I know the rags I use for gun cleaning show no staining other than from carbon.
 
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