Froglube-use it!

M

MTSig89

Inactive
Good morning fellow TFL'ers!

I've done a lot of perusing in the last week or so and haven't seen any mention of FROGLUBE products (CLP-paste and liquid and solvent).

I have been using FROGLUBE on my pistols and rifles for going on two years and could not be happier with the results. I used to carry for work and really wish I had been exposed to it during that time.

Based on my experience with this product I feel that EVERYONE should at least be aware of it's existence. The idea behind the treatment is ease of cleaning your weapons after application of the product which "leaches into" the pores of the metal components and comes out when warm to lubricate friction points. My MK25 was fairly new when I seasoned it first and it still made a notable difference in the operation of the slide when cold. The paste or liquid is designed to be applied to a warm (above room temp) but not so hot that you can't handle the weapon.

Here is a link to a very good youtube video about it's application.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlMikz8Nc8A

Hopefully this sparks a conversation.
 
yours would be the first positive review I've heard about it. from what I've read, it turns to sludge in cold climates and melts away in hot climates.
 
tahunua001:

I just went shooting a few weeks ago in sub 20 degree weather with my Mk25 and put about 300 rounds through it with no issues as you mentioned. The lube soaks into the pores of the gun- there is no residue to "sludge" when cold. From what I have seen and experience myself, the likelihood of it getting hot enough to burn off is quite low in most shooters conditions. I have seen a video of a guy who did a 300 round mag dump in his AR platform that had been treated with the FROGLUBE clp and it performed amazingly well- here is the link. Eventually the weapon failed if my memory doesn't fail me. Worth a watch for sure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LB8hN9X5z5M
 
I stand corrected. The weapon cycled every single round, then they put the front of the barrel in muddy water and ran another mag through, no issues.
 
my buddy swears by it, always offers me to use it before we leave the range, I always decline because I know I am going to clean my guns when I get home anyways. if I ever see it on the shelf, I will grab some, but I never do. I was using Mpro7 and love it for the pistols because it's thick and stays put, but don't LOVE it for the AR's, so started using hopes elite because it goes on the bolts a little thinner and can be wiped around easier and stays wet a good while.

after seeing that guys insanely in depth review of lubes a few weeks back, it seems that frog-lube is a real winner. i'll try to dig up a link to that thread, its really awesome, maybe even "sticky" awesome.
 
by definitions, it isn't pourus, but it does have dimples and imperfections that you could call "pores" if you wanted to.
 
Grizz12 said:
If you put a torch to cold steel, it will sweat because there is moisture in the pores
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The sweat is condensation of water vapor in the burning fuel when it meets the cold surface of steel.

Steel has grains, which are crystals of atoms. Between grains are crack like voids. Almost all lubes claim their products creep between the grains. Nothing new there. I am not saying froglube is not good. But I am convinced there is no such thing as the best. People like what they like.

-TL
 
I found it didn't work too well with black powder rifles. The next day after cleaning with hot soapy water and Frog Lube treated patches, fresh patches pushed through the bore the next day showed light rust. I went back to Break Free (it's what I have).

Frog Lube is great for conservation work though. I scraped rust off of old guns without ruining the patina.
 
Bill said:
Steel really has no "pores."
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Come'on Bill....don't upset them...if they want steel to have pores and hairs to love some Frog Lube....let'em! All decisions don't have to be based in reality!

I'm glad you love your Frog Lube. Just stay away from my Weaponshield jug!
 
I fix guns for a living. I see a lot of unintended results that lubes display. When people come into my shop and tell me their pistol or rifle quit working, I notice it. I have a lot of customers who use Frog Lube tell me their guns quit working. The primary reason? Frog Lube, when combined with carbon and powder fouling turns into a gelatinous mess, slows down parts that are not supposed to slow down, and in general fouls the firearms' actions. I see this a lot, so much so that it tells me there is an issue. I do not endorse one lube over another, no matter what, I just tell people to use whatever they like best. I quit telling people who ask me if Frog Lube is good to use it if they like it best. I tell them the same thing I am about to tell you: If you like it, go ahead and use it, but I wouldn't.
 
Like I said, I haven't used frog lube so have no say. But the above poster is right that there is probably other things to consider than just the best lubrication and corrosion protection. It's easy to say something is the best when just testing for rust protection etc, bit it probably really takes actual firearm usage rather than lab tests to really know. I have heard frog lube has an interesting application process, and that could be the main contributer to gummed up guns(incorrect application by user), but who knows. I know that they have all worked well for me, the only one I preach against is good ole rem oil in autos just because it dries up so fast, doesn't seem worth the cost savings
 
I've never experienced a Lube-Induced failure in all the years I've been shooting. I've only used very inexpensive things like CLP and Mobile 1.

I'm not sure I truly understand the reasoning behind these expensive lubes other than separating people from their hard-earned money.

Keep your gun clean (as you should), apply a judicious amount of lube and be safe.
 
MTSig89 said:
Based on my experience with this product I feel that EVERYONE should at least be aware of it's existence.
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If you are happy with Froglube, by all means keep on using it.

Many of us are aware of it, and don't use it because of reported issues with the product. There are many, many gun lubes out there -- there is no one product that's so much better than all the others that we all "must" use it.

MTSig89 said:
The lube soaks into the pores of the gun-...
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Did you obtain this purported factoid from the maker's advertising literature, or have you conducted your own experiments with electron microscopes to find these alleged "pores" in steel and see that the product "soaks into" them? Since steel doesn't have pores, I always regard claims such as this as a clue that I should avoid the product and the company that resorts to such advertising BS.
 
Welcome to TFL, MTSig89!

We, or at least many of us, are aware of FrogLube. I've got a buddy that swears by it. I consider using it from time to time, but haven't done so yet. In part, that's because of the posts I've read about FL getting too thick in cold temperatures, and in part because it seems like an all-or-nothing lube. Making sure that every last trace of any old lube is removed before using FL seems awfully important to the manufacturer, and if FL really does "soak into the pores of the steel," can I be sure it's all removed if I decide to switch back from FL?
 
Scorch said:
I have a lot of customers who use Frog Lube tell me their guns quit working. The primary reason? Frog Lube, when combined with carbon and powder fouling turns into a gelatinous mess, slows down parts that are not supposed to slow down, and in general fouls the firearms' actions.
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I've seen this too, and I've heard this from several gunsmiths. But the problem isn't the Frog Lube, the problem is that people often use way too much of it. Part of what makes Frog Lube work so well is that it's a paste and it stays on the metal better. But that means that when people over-use it and glob the stuff into their guns, the excess won't run off the gun like a liquid lube will.

When used correctly, Frog Lube is the best lube I've ever used, hands down. I recently did a 500 round torture test with my Glock 19 and my Octane 9 silencer. We loaded up a huge stack of G19 and G17 mags and went to town, shooting as fast as we could shoot while still staying on target. The silencer and the metal parts on the Glock got so hot that they melted an oven mitt. The guide rod on my Gen 3 Glock even melted a little and now the end is slightly crooked, but it still works fine.

But after everything cooled down and the Glock was finally safe to touch, we took it apart. The insides had a thin coating of carbon and Frog Lube, and everything was still properly lubed with no gumming or excessive fouling. Keep in mind that a silencer puts way more carbon back into the action, so shooting suppressed dirties the gun at far more than double the rate than it would unsuppressed.

I put my regular non-threaded barrel back in and put a bunch more rounds through the Glock just to make sure that it still functioned even though the cap on the end of the guide rod had melted and was now at a slight angle. It worked fine. Then I just wiped down the outside of the gun and put it back into my normal carry rotation. Frog Lube is good stuff.
 
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