Everything they say it is? "Frog Lube is the last lube & cleaner that you will ever need." Or a whole lot of hype?
http://www.froglube.com/videos.htm
http://www.froglube.com/videos.htm
Frog Lube
- Thread starter Jerry45
- Start date
I am plumb out of frogs to lube. As far as "the last you will ever need", that I will agree with, it is the last thing I need.
And I have never heard a manufacturer selling a product by telling people "well, it works okay, but smells kinda funny, and that other stuff over there is actually better".
And I have never heard a manufacturer selling a product by telling people "well, it works okay, but smells kinda funny, and that other stuff over there is actually better".
Just found this http://www.froglube.com/docs/Frog Lube Liquid MSDS 3-25-10.pdf Just in-case anyone is interested.
I’m intrigued by this stuff. It sounds too good to be true. Usually anything that sounds too good to be true is.
I’m intrigued by this stuff. It sounds too good to be true. Usually anything that sounds too good to be true is.
P.A. Dutchman
New member
I have been using it for about a year now. I like it a lot, and my honest opinion is that it does a better job then the Hoppes I have. I have the paste type, but will be switching to the liquid the next time I need some. I would agree with everything they say on their website.
Seems to be pricy for something derived from US plants. I’m skeptical by nature and when something sounds too good to be true bells and whistles go off. I’d like to try the stuff but at $10.00 for 4 oz. of paste or $16.00 for 4 oz. of liquid or $28.00 for the 4 oz. kit plus shipping… Well I’ve never been a gambling man.
One thing that has me really wondering is their claim of protecting the bore from lead and copper fowling. Safety data sheet says flash point is 480 degrees F. I’m reasonably sure the bore gets hotter than that, if only in the instant the bullet is fired. If it “burns” off how does it protect against fowling?
If they would sell 1 oz. or even 1/2 oz. for a couple of bucks and only charge a couple of bucks for shipping I’d be a lot more inclined to give it a try.
One thing that has me really wondering is their claim of protecting the bore from lead and copper fowling. Safety data sheet says flash point is 480 degrees F. I’m reasonably sure the bore gets hotter than that, if only in the instant the bullet is fired. If it “burns” off how does it protect against fowling?
If they would sell 1 oz. or even 1/2 oz. for a couple of bucks and only charge a couple of bucks for shipping I’d be a lot more inclined to give it a try.
Double Impact
New member
The more you ck into this the moe it becomes a Mystery.
I tried it, bad move!
I tried it, bad move!
I've been using froglube for about 8 months. I was turned onto it by The smith at my local shop. He said it was the best stuff he'd seen in his 40 yrs of being a gun smith. Up until this point I'd used hoppes and slip and was happy with them.
I got my first small container and cleaned my 226. The biggest thing I noticed was how much crud it got off the gun that the other cleaners would take off. I pasted the stuff on heavy then heated the gun. After about 20 mins there was a big black puddle of crud under the gun.
I also noticed the slide and trigger felt better but this could have been in my head. After the next range trip I noticed the 226 was easier to clean. No scrubbing needed. Just wipe it down and run a bore snake and it's clean. Reapply, warm up then wipe Down and you're done.
For me it cleans better and makes future clean ups easier. Also seems to work as well as a lube as anything else I've used.
I got my first small container and cleaned my 226. The biggest thing I noticed was how much crud it got off the gun that the other cleaners would take off. I pasted the stuff on heavy then heated the gun. After about 20 mins there was a big black puddle of crud under the gun.
I also noticed the slide and trigger felt better but this could have been in my head. After the next range trip I noticed the 226 was easier to clean. No scrubbing needed. Just wipe it down and run a bore snake and it's clean. Reapply, warm up then wipe Down and you're done.
For me it cleans better and makes future clean ups easier. Also seems to work as well as a lube as anything else I've used.
If you put bacon grease, margarine, butter, or even generic general-purpose packing grease on your pistol and then heated it in an oven you would get a black puddle of crud under the gun.
This reminds me of the myth that got started in the automotive industry that running ATF through an engine before an oil change "cleansed" it. Mechanics would drain the oil and then fill the crank case with ATF or a mixture of ATF & oil and idle the engine for a few minutes. Then they would drain the oil pan again and the fluid would be dirty. Then they would fill er up with whatever oil they were going to use.
Well it turns out that ATF has less detergent in it than most standard motor oils and especially detergent oils. And when someone repeated that exercise using 5 quarts of premium detergent oil - they got dirty oil when they drained the engine.
You are heating the metal! All of the petro chemicals that are in the pores of the metal are going to become more viscous and when they begin to flow they are going to lift out any carbon particles with them.
This also reminds me of a trick door to door vacuum salesmen would do. They would vacuum a section of rug with the homeowners vacuum. Then they would go over the same section with the vacuum they were selling and would show the filter to the homeowner to prove how much better their vacuum brand was than the homeowners.
The reality though is that if the would have reversed the order, the same thing would have happened, the homeowners vacuum would have picked stuff up out of the carpet too, even after going over the spot with the salesman's vacuum.
This reminds me of the myth that got started in the automotive industry that running ATF through an engine before an oil change "cleansed" it. Mechanics would drain the oil and then fill the crank case with ATF or a mixture of ATF & oil and idle the engine for a few minutes. Then they would drain the oil pan again and the fluid would be dirty. Then they would fill er up with whatever oil they were going to use.
Well it turns out that ATF has less detergent in it than most standard motor oils and especially detergent oils. And when someone repeated that exercise using 5 quarts of premium detergent oil - they got dirty oil when they drained the engine.
You are heating the metal! All of the petro chemicals that are in the pores of the metal are going to become more viscous and when they begin to flow they are going to lift out any carbon particles with them.
This also reminds me of a trick door to door vacuum salesmen would do. They would vacuum a section of rug with the homeowners vacuum. Then they would go over the same section with the vacuum they were selling and would show the filter to the homeowner to prove how much better their vacuum brand was than the homeowners.
The reality though is that if the would have reversed the order, the same thing would have happened, the homeowners vacuum would have picked stuff up out of the carpet too, even after going over the spot with the salesman's vacuum.
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Well I've never tried to put bacon grease or butter on my handguns so i'll take your word for it. What I can tell you is I always clean my guns warm. I've worked with metal most of my life and you are correct that warming the metal opens the pores and allows crud to be released which is exactly why I've always used this method even when using other cleaning products.
When I did my 226 with the FL the first time It had already been cleaned with Hoppe's then lubed with Slip2000 and appeared to be spot less. Nothing would come off when wiped with a clean white towel. Before using the FL I warmed the gun slightly and wiped the whole thing down with a clean rag and a large amount of 91% alcohol, again nothing on the rag, nothing on a patch.
I pasted the gun heavily with FL and warmed it up and just let it sit. After a few minutes there was a puddle under the gun and the junk just kept coming off. After the second round with FL the black crud was gone.
I've run a couple of thousand rounds through it since then and clean up is easier. Most of the time requiring only a dry rag and a little more FL. I will tell you that I repeat the whole process at least once a month whether the gun has been fired or not. I'm sold on its ability to clean and lube. I'm still on the fence about long term protection against rust and corrosion.
When I did my 226 with the FL the first time It had already been cleaned with Hoppe's then lubed with Slip2000 and appeared to be spot less. Nothing would come off when wiped with a clean white towel. Before using the FL I warmed the gun slightly and wiped the whole thing down with a clean rag and a large amount of 91% alcohol, again nothing on the rag, nothing on a patch.
I pasted the gun heavily with FL and warmed it up and just let it sit. After a few minutes there was a puddle under the gun and the junk just kept coming off. After the second round with FL the black crud was gone.
I've run a couple of thousand rounds through it since then and clean up is easier. Most of the time requiring only a dry rag and a little more FL. I will tell you that I repeat the whole process at least once a month whether the gun has been fired or not. I'm sold on its ability to clean and lube. I'm still on the fence about long term protection against rust and corrosion.
P.A. Dutchman
New member
I found the same thing with FL. I cleaned with Hoppes until my drying patch came out clean and dry. I then used FL and and the patch came out cruddy. I also use it to clean around the action and bolt. Things just seem to work a little smoother. All those of us that have used it can tell you is what we have found in using it. You have to decide for yourself if the cost is too much for you or not. However I'd be more inclined to believe someone who has used it, good or bad results, then someone who has never used it at all and bad mouths it.
Per their MSDS, it is a less than 50% POA which means the base oil has a lot of solvency. While they didn't state the actual cP of the fluid, this would be close to the pre-Katrina Mobil One that a lot of the guys are using except the Frog crap wouldn't have some of the additives that could create issues from free radical oxygen in the M1. POAs are expensive now considering the ethylene gas that is used to make them is getting scarce which is why the newer M1 motor oil is not anything like the old. So if you are using M1 and you bought it after Katrina, yer just using plain ol' motor oil and not the PAO based pre-Katrina stuff. Depending on the polar properties of the PAO, it should have tremendous film strength especially for a weapons application but you need to know that the PAO by itself does nothing to prevent oxides from forming like rust/corrosion so I would assume that there has to be something in the formulation to help with this issue. Unless you know from someone close experiences with it, I'd be inclined to use something with more track record in regards to corrosion resistance. Nothing like taking out a firearm that you treasure only to find it's a ball of rust.
Well I done went and done it. 
I can’t find anyone that has used it that has anything bad to say about it so my curiosity has gotten the better of me and I ordered some. Since it doesn’t remove copper I won’t be using it in the bore of anything I shoot jacketed bullets in, i.e. rifles, carry pistol or any of my Glock barrels. BUMMER, I’ll still need two products, bore cleaner and Frog Lube, even if it works for everything else. 
I’m very “critical” when it comes to promises made. I’ll give Frog Lube a skeptical but honest try. I’ll let y’all know (if y'all are interested) what I think of it as time goes by. Should be getting it in next week.
I can’t find anyone that has used it that has anything bad to say about it so my curiosity has gotten the better of me and I ordered some. Since it doesn’t remove copper I won’t be using it in the bore of anything I shoot jacketed bullets in, i.e. rifles, carry pistol or any of my Glock barrels. BUMMER, I’ll still need two products, bore cleaner and Frog Lube, even if it works for everything else. I’m very “critical” when it comes to promises made. I’ll give Frog Lube a skeptical but honest try. I’ll let y’all know (if y'all are interested) what I think of it as time goes by. Should be getting it in next week.
Seventhsword
New member
Let us know what you think of it, after you try it out..
Frog Lube came in today. I did two Glocks my 1911 carry gun and my AR. I washed my hand after doing each gun and I’ve washed them twice more. They are still slick. Not greasy but slick. Feels like I have Silicone on them. Any indication of its lubricating ability? I hope so.
The guns were “clean” before I started and I cleaned them with alcohol as per instruction. I heated them in the oven (no hair drier and there ain’t no sun at night). The paste turned to liquid on contact. When the parts cooled the FL turned back to paste. When I wiped everything down with the supplied microfiber rag it turned out they weren’t that clean. If nothing else it did a good job of cleaning and made everything nice and shiny.
I said I wasn’t going to use it in the boar. I decided to run some in one of the Glock barrels. The barrel boar had been cleaned with Hoppies until patches came out clean. As per instructions I scrubbed the boar vigorously, with a new brush, loaded with FL. After it cooled I ran a clean patch through. It came out black. Second patch came out clean.
I’m suppressed at how little paste it took to do a complete AR, (I mean everything from stem to stern) I removed the hand guards and the stock and did the rifle completely in and out and three pistols completely in and out.
I’m going to try to get to the range next week. I’ll take the AR and one of the Glocks. We’ll see how it goes.
The guns were “clean” before I started and I cleaned them with alcohol as per instruction. I heated them in the oven (no hair drier and there ain’t no sun at night). The paste turned to liquid on contact. When the parts cooled the FL turned back to paste. When I wiped everything down with the supplied microfiber rag it turned out they weren’t that clean. If nothing else it did a good job of cleaning and made everything nice and shiny.
I said I wasn’t going to use it in the boar. I decided to run some in one of the Glock barrels. The barrel boar had been cleaned with Hoppies until patches came out clean. As per instructions I scrubbed the boar vigorously, with a new brush, loaded with FL. After it cooled I ran a clean patch through. It came out black. Second patch came out clean.
I’m suppressed at how little paste it took to do a complete AR, (I mean everything from stem to stern) I removed the hand guards and the stock and did the rifle completely in and out and three pistols completely in and out.
I’m going to try to get to the range next week. I’ll take the AR and one of the Glocks. We’ll see how it goes.
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I got to go to the range today. I took my Glock 30 and my Colt AR. I have an aftermarket barrel for the Glock for shoooting lead. I had forgotten to season the aftermarket barrel so I did it this morning before I left. Shot lead through the Glock. Both guns ran fine. When the AR heated up there was noticeable moist FL around the fire control pins. Anywhere there was a tight place that I hadn’t wiped well became moist. I admit I was a bit liberal with the FL. When I got home I wiped the whole thing down. There wasn’t any external dirt. The bolt and fire control parts were wet with FL. It and the dirt/carbon wiped right off. I stuck everything back in the oven and did a second seasoning. I hadn’t seasoned the boar so I decided to season it too. It’s a Colt chrome lined. I cleaned and cleaned with FL and dry patches until I got tired. I was still getting a little gray on the dry patches.
I wiped the Glock down. There was black/carbon on the feed ramp and trigger assembly. The Glock has always been pretty easy to clean so I didn’t notice a big difference. Rail channels in the slide did seem to clean up a little easier. Boar cleaned up with one FL soaked patch and two dry patches. Threw it in the oven, heated it up and did a second seasoning.
Now to be honest I didn’t notice a really big difference cleaning or lubricating between FL and the petroleum products I’ve been using. Granted the firearms had only been seasoned once and the seasoning process added to cleaning time. Actually it took about as long for the whole process as it does when I clean using petroleum cleaner and oil. FL may have made cleaning and lubing a bit easier but I don’t want to be overzealous. What I did notice is… my hands are usually black, oily and smell like whatever product I’ve used when I’m finished. I wiped my hand off with the microfiber cloth that came with the FL. I had used it to wipe down the four guns I seasoned yesterday and to clean and wipe down the Glock and AR today. My hands are clean. Now that I think of it I’d better go wash them with soap.
I wiped the Glock down. There was black/carbon on the feed ramp and trigger assembly. The Glock has always been pretty easy to clean so I didn’t notice a big difference. Rail channels in the slide did seem to clean up a little easier. Boar cleaned up with one FL soaked patch and two dry patches. Threw it in the oven, heated it up and did a second seasoning.
Now to be honest I didn’t notice a really big difference cleaning or lubricating between FL and the petroleum products I’ve been using. Granted the firearms had only been seasoned once and the seasoning process added to cleaning time. Actually it took about as long for the whole process as it does when I clean using petroleum cleaner and oil. FL may have made cleaning and lubing a bit easier but I don’t want to be overzealous. What I did notice is… my hands are usually black, oily and smell like whatever product I’ve used when I’m finished. I wiped my hand off with the microfiber cloth that came with the FL. I had used it to wipe down the four guns I seasoned yesterday and to clean and wipe down the Glock and AR today. My hands are clean. Now that I think of it I’d better go wash them with soap.
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