Frog Lube = coconut oil

Frog Lube CLP, solvent, and their degreaser, per the SDS, only have non-toxic, food-grade proprietary ingredients and are safe to wash and rinse into a waste water drain.
 
After seeing a friends gun all gummy from frog lube one day at the range, I decided just to keep my Hop's and gun oil.
 
There are many different type of coconut oil.

For example, fractionated coconut oil is a liquid whereas the stuff you see in the store that is solid white is usually coconut oil 76.

I would be interested to see a rust test using various coconut oils vs other rust preventative products. If it worked, it would save tons of money and be much healthier than anything else on the market. A quick google search says that coconut oil can be used for rust prevention but I didn't find any good scientific studies showing it...or even home tests. So who is up for the challenge?
 
Working in the oil industry I continually shake my head at all the wonderlubes out there. You can get 42 gallons of light sweet crude oil for about $33 bucks today. If you will spend an extra $12, you can actually get it in a barrel the last time I checked.

I know I use Mobil 1 Synthetic on my guns. I talked to a group of lubrication engineers on a company jet flight and they said good old motor is fine for guns, just it lacks rust preventative. If you keep it oiled, no problem. They were right so far.
 
I know I use Mobil 1 Synthetic on my guns. I talked to a group of lubrication engineers on a company jet flight and they said good old motor is fine for guns, just it lacks rust preventative. If you keep it oiled, no problem. They were right so far.
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I think the whole point is rust prevention though and as numerous tests have shown some oils outperform others by leaps and bounds in the rust dept. Some actually perform as bad as using nothing at all while others dont even show a hint of rust.
 
One of my officers frog-lubed his Taurus 1911... it apparently didn't like trace amounts of whatever oil he'd been using on it, congealing in the frame rails and producing the first live, slow motion slide release I've seen in my life. It was hilarious.

But that crap isn't getting near any of my guns.
 
Adam,

I don't disagree with your comments. But being old school, I can still remember going out and getting oil off the dipstick of the IH's to lube my guns. It worked just fine then, and motor oil works just fine today on my guns.

As a collector of big S&W pre-numbered N frames, I have often wondered how my guns ever survived the 1930s to the 1990s without the application and use of the new prerequisite "wonder lube" of the day.
 
Congealing ? Antioxidents are used to prevent oil from oxidizing to varnish !!
My technicians clued me into Mobil . We used turbine oil and they said it makes a good gun oil. I checked the specs and found it had everything you need for a gun oil. Still have some. FBI tests found synthetic Mobil 1 was the best oil not made for guns.
 
I don't disagree with your comments. But being old school, I can still remember going out and getting oil off the dipstick of the IH's to lube my guns. It worked just fine then, and motor oil works just fine today on my guns.

As a collector of big S&W pre-numbered N frames, I have often wondered how my guns ever survived the 1930s to the 1990s without the application and use of the new prerequisite "wonder lube" of the day.
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It depends on a lot of variables, thats where the best vs something that works ok can make a big difference. If you keep your guns in a normal air conditioned house any oil (heck no protection) is probably going to be just fine. I live in the humid south, at the beach, where carrying my gun for a day can cause rust. So having something that protects 2-3x longer/better can make the difference between rust and a no rust. No metal survives outside very long where I live. The salt air just eats it. So I am always looking for the best. But yea for most people any oil is going to work just fine for them and the latest snake oil is probably just costing them money they dont need to spend. I guess it all just depends on a number of variables.
 
I use frog lube so my comments are first hand. If anyone has gunk on thier gun after treating with FL, they are using it wrong! Finished treatment surface should be absolutely polished clean.

Proper use of FL requires heating the metal, applying the FL, letting it dry and then buffing it off like you were waxing your car. The intent of FL is to lubricate at a molecular level by first expanding the metal with a little heat. The lube melts easily and not a lot of heat or lube is needed. After the one time heat treat the gun cleans up nicely after shooting.

I really like the dry lube option for concealed carry and it does not ruin suits or dress shirts with excess oil or grease. I no longer use petroleum based lubes. I do put a little TW25b or M Pro7 on my slide rails if I am going to be shooting a lot. I apply FL to all surfaces of my guns and have have been happy with the results. I carry close to the body in AZ where I sweat like a beast. Although I wipe the gun down each night, I have never seen any signs or rust.

Its not like you use gallons of the stuff so I am good with the price. Could never understand the guys going cheap with used car oil etc to save pennies. I am one of those who use car products for the car and gun products for the guns.
 
I applied regular grocery store coconut oil - solid at room temperature - to the rails of a 1911. It FEELS smooth in operation. Will shoot tomorrow.


Shot normally, will clean and see what is left.
 
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My wife is Polynesian, and tells me that coconut oil is often used for lubrication in the South Pacific. Her mother used it on her sewing machine for example.

I suggest that the best use for coconut oil is shining up hula dancers.
 
I've used coconut oil for years and I can tell you that it works wonders for frying eggs or general sauteing. If I were ever going to fry my gun I'd probably use coconut oil to do it.
 
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