folding knife advice
- Thread starter boogeyman
- Start date
as with most (expensive) good knife makers, you wont wear it out but i bet i could snap the tip off of one. seems to be a lot of thin blades to me. i stab my knife into a soft 2x4 and then bend it sideways. if the tip breaks off i put another tip on it. my gerbers and my swats just rip out a hunk of wood with the tip intact. i refuse to pay more than 50 bucks for a knife. usually less. if you payed say $100 bucks or more would you even try this test?
I carry a Gerber FAST somethin' er other knife. Pocket clip, assisted opening (automatic basically), sharp edge, sturdy, THIN, about 50 bucks, you could attach a lanyard, about a 3 or 3 and a half inch blade. Good simple utilitarian knife. A lot of the "bells and wistles" of the other knives at a much lower price. I own several hundred knives and I'm very happy with this Gerber.
I have nothing against a good Gerber knife. I think that for way-mass-produced Taiwanese stuff, they are functional and durable and reliable. Some of them even look cool. But I bought the Frame Lock something or other and it, as a folder with one-hand-opening thumbstud, was a total P.O.S.!
I like those Gator-grip ones, and some of their fixed-blade knives as well, but then the Gator-grip folders are not one-hand-openers as I prefer.
No, I do not subject my knives to crazy metal-bending stress tests. I think that if my knife blade is reasonably thick, and of a quality steel, it'll do just fine; perhaps it would pass such a test swimmingly. But since I'll be slicing or stabbing with it, not opening paint cans ("the right tool for the right job"), why would I care how much lateral pressure I can put on the tip before it snaps??
-blackmind
I like those Gator-grip ones, and some of their fixed-blade knives as well, but then the Gator-grip folders are not one-hand-openers as I prefer.
No, I do not subject my knives to crazy metal-bending stress tests. I think that if my knife blade is reasonably thick, and of a quality steel, it'll do just fine; perhaps it would pass such a test swimmingly. But since I'll be slicing or stabbing with it, not opening paint cans ("the right tool for the right job"), why would I care how much lateral pressure I can put on the tip before it snaps??
-blackmind
yeah I must admit I've seen some pretty Sh*tty Gerber knives, but my FAST knife is pretty good. I also have an older one, prolly somethin' like 40 years old and it too is a good one, back when they were actually made in America. Made in Taiwan??? Really? Better than China I guess.
good on ya, Grav. gerber is a good working knife. i have been using knives on a daily basis for around 40 years. i beat the crap out of em every day. we're not talking uber tactical here. most tactical (super expensive) knives say do not pry, use as a screwdriver, etc. etc... why? they don't want you to break them. i use mine to pry, turn screws, etc. etc. everyday. a man without a pocketknife is like... well, you get my drift. i'm not payin' hundreds of dollars just so i can look at it. incidently, i do like benchmade for tactical. my buddy is a dealer, so i get good deals on them. if there is a chance it could get wasted or lost (in the deep blue), why pay big bucks.
what makes one knife 5 times more expensive than another. stainless is stainless. sure there is 360 stainless, 410 stainless, 440 stainless, bla bla bla. i beleive the 300 series is non magnetic, whatever. they can only get so hard. 62 or 63 hardness on the rockwell C scale. any harder and they will crack if they are not drawn down in a draw funace. i used to heat treat steel for a living many years ago. filet knives are usually 45 to 50 hardness (spring steel). too hard and they will be brittle and snap with much flex.
of course, i wear a timex, and that is another debate. i have money but i'm not going to throw it away for bragging rights on a name. i use what works from experience.
what makes one knife 5 times more expensive than another. stainless is stainless. sure there is 360 stainless, 410 stainless, 440 stainless, bla bla bla. i beleive the 300 series is non magnetic, whatever. they can only get so hard. 62 or 63 hardness on the rockwell C scale. any harder and they will crack if they are not drawn down in a draw funace. i used to heat treat steel for a living many years ago. filet knives are usually 45 to 50 hardness (spring steel). too hard and they will be brittle and snap with much flex.
of course, i wear a timex, and that is another debate. i have money but i'm not going to throw it away for bragging rights on a name. i use what works from experience.
There is, as I understand it, more to steel than hardness. There is toughness, too. I guess that edge-holding ability is related mostly to hardness. But there are also handle materials to think about; construction; fit and finish; design and utility; construction strength...
I'm not saying that your knife must cost $350 like a Chris Reeve Sebenza (though people who own them rave about them)... and I admit that some $25 knives do great, but if you bump up to spending maybe $60-80 on a Benchmade, you'll not only have a great user knife, you can also stare at it and handle it and enjoy how very cool it also is...
Oh, and same with Spyderco.
If you need a good knife for a boat, one that will resist rusting, get a Benchmade 100SH2O. It's a combo edge, yeah, but really sharp, good in the hand, can be mounted on a PFD, has the option for a high-vis yellow grip, and is made of H1 steel, which is very rust-resistant.
+1 I'm a Casio man, myself, but I'm with you on this philosophy.
I'm not into it for the name brands; it's just that many times, the name brands are well known because they are superior products.
-blackmind
I'm not saying that your knife must cost $350 like a Chris Reeve Sebenza (though people who own them rave about them)... and I admit that some $25 knives do great, but if you bump up to spending maybe $60-80 on a Benchmade, you'll not only have a great user knife, you can also stare at it and handle it and enjoy how very cool it also is...
Oh, and same with Spyderco.
If you need a good knife for a boat, one that will resist rusting, get a Benchmade 100SH2O. It's a combo edge, yeah, but really sharp, good in the hand, can be mounted on a PFD, has the option for a high-vis yellow grip, and is made of H1 steel, which is very rust-resistant.
dragun said:
+1 I'm a Casio man, myself, but I'm with you on this philosophy.
I'm not into it for the name brands; it's just that many times, the name brands are well known because they are superior products.
-blackmind
Blackwater OPS
New member
FYI hardness is just a measure of a material's resistance to scratching, IE glass is pretty hard, I would not really want a knife made out of it though. Also, when I say I wore out my kershaw, I meant it fell apart. I probably could replace the screws and whatnot and it would be fine, but it had seen a lot of abuse I really fell in love with the CRKT. The main thing I look for in a folding knife now, aside from basic quality and the ability to retain a locked position even if struck with a hard/heavy object on the back of the blade(very important), is index finger opening stud of some kind. I have found this makes a knife much faster and easier to open and draw.
Benchmade 100SH2O, very nice knife, made for being around water if i remember right. thinking they're around $80-$100 bucks?
as far as being really sharp, most knives are nowdays. i remember buying my first knife that had a real edge. a Case knife that was so razor sharp i couldn't believe it. one of my friends (not the brightest bulb) sliced his thumb to the bone just checking it out, and threw it across a parking lot. although, when i was young, all knives were almost dull out of the box and we sharpened em ourselves. if you use it at all, even cardboard will dull em in one day. if you use it daily, i would suggest being able to sharpen it as well.
as far as being really sharp, most knives are nowdays. i remember buying my first knife that had a real edge. a Case knife that was so razor sharp i couldn't believe it. one of my friends (not the brightest bulb) sliced his thumb to the bone just checking it out, and threw it across a parking lot. although, when i was young, all knives were almost dull out of the box and we sharpened em ourselves. if you use it at all, even cardboard will dull em in one day. if you use it daily, i would suggest being able to sharpen it as well.
blackwater, the rockwell hardness test is done with a press type of device that puts weight on a pointed tip and makes it sink into the metal being tested. how far in it goes is measured to get results as to how hard the metal is. glass or other non metalic materials will not get too far.
Blackwater OPS
New member
I stand corrected, I was thinking of mineral hardness which is was the limit of my education on hardness. It seems hardness in reference to metals has an entirely different definition.
Tests to find strength of metal-http://www.standardservice.ro/index_files/Glosar.htm Whew, maybe the 2x4 test is not such a bad idea after all, at least its quick!
Tests to find strength of metal-http://www.standardservice.ro/index_files/Glosar.htm Whew, maybe the 2x4 test is not such a bad idea after all, at least its quick!
Dragun said:
I don't remember what I spent on it. It was probably around $80, I think. Not sure now.
Absolutely! Being able to sharpen is worth very much!
I have noticed that in the last three or so years, knives I get are sharper when new than they were before that. I used to buy Spydercos that needed work before they were users. Now they do a great job of making them sharp right off.
I have a Spyderco Bill Moran Featherweight that is really pretty amazingly sharp -- I'm afraid to try to sharpen it. It will be a stretch to put an edge back on it that's as good as the factory edge it had. (That's why I haven't really even used the knife yet! Don't wanna necessitate sharpening it!)
-blackmind
stephen426
New member
I have at least 10 different folders (I'm addicted). 6 of those are Benchmades although some of those are more for collection than use. I have to agree with Pilot on the 710 McHenry Williams. I have gotten a few other knives afterwards but that 710 never seems to give up its place on my waistband. The ergonomics are absolutely fantastic! The Axis lock is awesome (super smooth and easy to open AND close with one hand). I love the combo edge as I get the best of both worlds. Benchmade has their Lifesharp guarantee where they will sharpen your knife for around $5 for the S&H.
The Axis lock keeps the blade close under tension but it opens up easily.
Uh oh... I shouldn't have gone on the Benchmade site... Now I think I have found my next knife. It is the 10200 Ambush The handle is made of aluminum and the Blade is AUS 8. The SB model is black coated to prevent corrosion. This knife only costs less than $100!
One other thing I wanted to share was one of the best damn knife dealers I have dealt with. I have bought quite a few things from Bayou Lafouche Knifeworks and have always been very happy with the service and my purchase. They have great pricing and I don't have to worry about whether the guy on Ebay is legit or not!
The Axis lock keeps the blade close under tension but it opens up easily.
Uh oh... I shouldn't have gone on the Benchmade site... Now I think I have found my next knife. It is the 10200 Ambush The handle is made of aluminum and the Blade is AUS 8. The SB model is black coated to prevent corrosion. This knife only costs less than $100!
One other thing I wanted to share was one of the best damn knife dealers I have dealt with. I have bought quite a few things from Bayou Lafouche Knifeworks and have always been very happy with the service and my purchase. They have great pricing and I don't have to worry about whether the guy on Ebay is legit or not!
StormTrooper
New member
I too keep a Gerber at the ready. The model I am carrying now is the Hersey Air Ranger. Nice everyday all around blade. The blade is like 3-1/8", Textured aluminum handle and is ambidextrious as you can open it easily with the left or right hand thumb. Its a drop point blade with knife edge the first 1/2 to 3/4 of the blade and serated at the portion to the rear of the blade. All in all very handy, lighting fast to access and they do take a beating. I use a sparing drop of gun oil once every 3-6 months to keep the action smooth. You got a lot of choices to sift through, good luck.
If you live in a state that allows auto-knives, and they have a factory in that state (can't cross state lines, federal law) then I would suggest an auto.
I have and carry the Mini-Reflex by Benchmade. I am currently trying to buy another (thank goodness my gunshop that I go to has a lifetime (if that what it takes) lay-a-way program for regulars) Benchmade that is larger than the mini and also an auto.
If you have to go with a normal folder, again Benchmade but if you wish lower price, the Buck Knives have always been good (and they have a heck of a history behind them).
I don't know if Uncle Henry and Old Timer is still around but I still have my Uncle Henry that I got for my 10th birthday but it isn't easy open and the Old Timer truly is, it belonged to my great grandfather, again not an easy open type. They have held up remarkably well, especially the Uncle Henry (in 27 years, you know what that thing has been used for
).
Wayne
I have and carry the Mini-Reflex by Benchmade. I am currently trying to buy another (thank goodness my gunshop that I go to has a lifetime (if that what it takes) lay-a-way program for regulars) Benchmade that is larger than the mini and also an auto.
If you have to go with a normal folder, again Benchmade but if you wish lower price, the Buck Knives have always been good (and they have a heck of a history behind them).
I don't know if Uncle Henry and Old Timer is still around but I still have my Uncle Henry that I got for my 10th birthday but it isn't easy open and the Old Timer truly is, it belonged to my great grandfather, again not an easy open type. They have held up remarkably well, especially the Uncle Henry (in 27 years, you know what that thing has been used for
).Wayne
I once had a Cold Steel medium Voyager, with a tanto-point, 3", fully serrated blade. It came scary sharp from the factory and cut through anything I wanted it to with ease. Serrations are not just for rope, although I'm sure rope-cutting could come in handy on a boat. This knife ripped through cardboard, plastic packages and plant stems like nobody's business. The stabbing point of the tanto is also useful. With one of the aforementioned hard plastic packages, you can insert the knife wherever you want and just rip it out to the side.
I never considered sharpening it in the three years I had it, because it just looked too difficult. On the other hand, I never needed to sharpen it. It always cut what I needed it to. I consider this a disposable knife, but one that should last for years. And, you could buy three of them and still not exceed $100 if you shop around.
After I lost that knife, I bought a Spyderco Calypso Jr. on closeout. This is a very NICE knife. I wouldn't consider abusing it like I did the Cold Steel, though, because it's more delicate.
I also have a CRKT M-16 with the Carson flipper. The flipper is great, but the blade is not. It doesn't slice nearly as well as the Calypso Jr., and it's nowhere near as rugged as the Cold Steel. It's also the only folder I have that has a rust problem. And the handle gets filled with dirt and lint because it's full of holes.
I think you should find a good $30-35 knife, and then buy three of them.
~Ichiro
I never considered sharpening it in the three years I had it, because it just looked too difficult. On the other hand, I never needed to sharpen it. It always cut what I needed it to. I consider this a disposable knife, but one that should last for years. And, you could buy three of them and still not exceed $100 if you shop around.
After I lost that knife, I bought a Spyderco Calypso Jr. on closeout. This is a very NICE knife. I wouldn't consider abusing it like I did the Cold Steel, though, because it's more delicate.
I also have a CRKT M-16 with the Carson flipper. The flipper is great, but the blade is not. It doesn't slice nearly as well as the Calypso Jr., and it's nowhere near as rugged as the Cold Steel. It's also the only folder I have that has a rust problem. And the handle gets filled with dirt and lint because it's full of holes.
I think you should find a good $30-35 knife, and then buy three of them.
~Ichiro
One more thing:
If you're considering a folder that you plan to use near the water (or, heaven forbid, in water), if it's not titanium or H1 steel, make sure you get one that can be user-disassembled/reassembled, so that you can maintain it, clean it, lubricate it...
Many many models can't be taken apart, but many can. Choose carefully.
As I understand it, in 2006, Spyderco will be releasing (FINALLY!) a Delica that is screwed together instead of riveted. I can't wait!
-blackmind
If you're considering a folder that you plan to use near the water (or, heaven forbid, in water), if it's not titanium or H1 steel, make sure you get one that can be user-disassembled/reassembled, so that you can maintain it, clean it, lubricate it...
Many many models can't be taken apart, but many can. Choose carefully.
As I understand it, in 2006, Spyderco will be releasing (FINALLY!) a Delica that is screwed together instead of riveted. I can't wait!
-blackmind
stephen426
New member
I just went to check out the Spyderco Web Site and came across this in the Specials section. This knife looks pretty good for your purposes and is pretty inexpensive. Hell, I might even get one!
riverkeeper
New member
Another Kershaw Leek fan.