Jim Watson
New member
I don't think you would need JB Weld and Loctite.
Just glue it together with the sight straight and try it out.
Just glue it together with the sight straight and try it out.
First Time Revolver Owner, Barrel Unscrewed, Options?
- Thread starter ZRTaylor
- Start date
I picked up a used S&W Model 65 .357 Magnum (3" barrel) not long after S&W stopped pinning the barrels. The barrel started backing out and the group moved laterally right along with the front sight.
I finally indexed the front sight for proper windage, marked its position and unscrewed it completely from the frame. I then applied Loctite Red to the barrel threads, reassembled it and gave it the final zeroing tweaks before the Loctite set. That solved the problem.
I finally indexed the front sight for proper windage, marked its position and unscrewed it completely from the frame. I then applied Loctite Red to the barrel threads, reassembled it and gave it the final zeroing tweaks before the Loctite set. That solved the problem.
ZR call heritage before you do anything. You might be surprised by their willingness to help. On the other hand if its abused you will most likely have to pay for the repair.
If the barrel just needs a "spacer" use JB weld on the barrel and front of the frame and the locktite on the threads. I doubt it will make any difference what grade you use.
If the barrel has movement when tightened then putting JB on the threads will fill the gap and tighten up the barrel. I think we have talked about this much longer than the repair would take. This should be a simple fix.
Good luck with whatever path you take.
If the barrel just needs a "spacer" use JB weld on the barrel and front of the frame and the locktite on the threads. I doubt it will make any difference what grade you use.
If the barrel has movement when tightened then putting JB on the threads will fill the gap and tighten up the barrel. I think we have talked about this much longer than the repair would take. This should be a simple fix.
Good luck with whatever path you take.
IF you like the gun, I'd suggest getting a new one because they don't cost much.
http://www.classicfirearms.com/hand-guns/heritage-rough-rider-revolver
What do to with the one you have?
1) Keep it for parts (if you get a new one like it)
2) Return it to your boss
3) Sell it on Armslist as a "Gunsmith's Special...needs repair"
http://www.classicfirearms.com/hand-guns/heritage-rough-rider-revolver
What do to with the one you have?
1) Keep it for parts (if you get a new one like it)
2) Return it to your boss
3) Sell it on Armslist as a "Gunsmith's Special...needs repair"
lee n. field
New member
The value is such that anything more than trivial repairs would be a significant percentage of the price of a new one. That's, done by someone else. If you can fix it, more power to you.
bbqncigars
New member
I've had good luck with J-B Weld in such instances. Two things: thoroughly clean and degrease the parts; thoroughly mix (1 min.+) the epoxy before applying. Also make sure that the J-B hasn't been sitting on the shelf for a few years. Old stuff takes forever to fully cure.
I tried the repair with red Loc-tite and classic JB Weld a couple days ago, letting it set the full 24 hours and then some. Took it out to test a few minutes ago and it shots remarkably straight. Straighter than me at least. Maybe this thing will be worth giving some love after all. A heartfelt thank you to everyone who offered their advice.
newfrontier45
Moderator
Problem is that the barrels on these guns are not threaded like other, more expensive firearms. They're "micro-threaded", basically just ribbed and pressed into the receiver, held in place with adhesive. This is why Heritage does not want you turning the barrel to zero the sights, like you would with any other fixed sight revolver.
Save your money, buy a used Single Six.
Save your money, buy a used Single Six.
So what you're saying is that the thing was only held in place with adhesives to begin with? Wow, that explains a lot.
I'm keeping an eye on the Single Six. Going to be putting aside a part of every pay check for the next few months. It's still a toss up between the Single Six, a double action revolver, or a Mark II/III automatic though. That's part of why I wanted to get this thing working. Try and flesh out my own preferences a little more.
I'm keeping an eye on the Single Six. Going to be putting aside a part of every pay check for the next few months. It's still a toss up between the Single Six, a double action revolver, or a Mark II/III automatic though. That's part of why I wanted to get this thing working. Try and flesh out my own preferences a little more.
ZR I am glad you got your gun up and running. It wasn't that hard either was it? It looks like for a new shooter you are doing great.
A nice double action revolver is a joy to own. But I will never be without a single six. I really like the 22 mag round and my single six shoots them very accurately. If I had to pick between the SS and my S&W model 34 I would have a tough time choosing. But it would most likely keep the ruger.
A nice double action revolver is a joy to own. But I will never be without a single six. I really like the 22 mag round and my single six shoots them very accurately. If I had to pick between the SS and my S&W model 34 I would have a tough time choosing. But it would most likely keep the ruger.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
I arrived late at the party, but I'm delighted that the OP chose to try a repair, and that the repair seems to have worked. I would have done the same thing (if I ascertained that the frame wasn't cracked).