Most definitely! As a Skeet newbie, you probably won't notice the difference between cylinder, Skeet and improved cylinder chokes. (You won't need to buy a cyl choke if you get a Skeet) But an experienced comp Skeet shooter can tell the difference by the way the targets break. Also, they can tell if their loads are slower or faster than they're used to. Many Skeeters have several versions of Skeet chokes available that differ by only a few thousandths of an inch. My comp Skeet chokes aren't labeled by name, like field chokes, but are marked by their reduction in ten-thousandths of an inch. The shooter will change his chokes for optimum target breaks depending of the conditions of the day. If you're having trouble seeing the targets, or there's some wind you may open your gun to get a little broader pattern. If everything is working perfectly, you may want to tighten up for better breaks. Different ammo may require slight choke adjustments, too. The comp shooter doesn't just want to shoot a 100-straight, he'd prefer a 100 inkballs when conditions allow. There's an old saying among comp shooters: I'd rather have a sloppy 100-straight than 99 ink-balls; but, in their true hearts, everyone is after 100 vaporized targets.Thomme said:Now, back to the topic of my questions: I've been reading up on chokes. And can anyone here who shoots really tell the difference between Cylinder, Skeet, Improved and Modified while skeet shooting?
I should mention, all of this choke fine-tuning is usually in the smaller guns, the 28-ga and .410-bore, where a few thousandths makes a huge difference. The 12 and 20-ga guns hit Skeet targets so hard you don't need to mess with your chokes. Some folks complain that good 12-ga Skeet gun has such a huge, and uniform, kill zone that it's hard to tell if a good break was centered or off by 6-inches or a foot. An off-center a good break with a 12-ga would frequently be lost with a .410!