First Attempt at Hand Painted Camo

No way in HELL I would paint a Rem 660.

A current production rifle is another matter. Nice job of painting. Not quite as nice camo with the blued barrel, action, black scope and the unpainted cheekpiece on the stock.

I've camo painted actual military vehicles in the 70s, and one of my hobbies is scale model WWII aircraft and armor, so I've done quite a bit of camo painting both large scale and small.

Always felt it was dumb to only camo part of the item, but the point of camo is not to make the object invisible its to break up the recognizable outline and make it harder to see or determine distance.

Enough camo to completely hide the object (or you) does that too, though for rifles and such, it doesn't have to be paint. It can be the rifle equivaletn of a ghillie suit and work just fine.

Two things I will never have camo, my wallet and my pistol. Those are items that if I drop them in the leaves, I WANT to be able to find them, in a hurry, if need be...:D
 
"No way in HELL I would paint a Rem 660."
Or any other rifle from another era.
That is a very nice paint job though. I just never seemed to have problem deer hunting with my shiny old blued & walnut rifles.
 
Pumpkin said:
"No way in HELL I would paint a Rem 660."
Or any other rifle from another era.
That is a very nice paint job though. I just never seemed to have problem deer hunting with my shiny old blued & walnut rifles.
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Haha, me either. This was done because I have two rifles of the same model Browning X-Bolt. I wanted them to be visually different to aid in telling them apart. If the supply chain was more helpful, I would have bought another.model X-Bolt.
 
I am impressed with your work. I like the Forest green style of camo pattern myself with bigger splotches. I need to find a beater gun to try this on. J bet if you did a YT video on your paint method you would have thousands of viewers watching.
 
The best paint I have encountered for durability.

Polyurethane paint, the two part type that requires adding a catalyst. Sherwin-Williams if memory serves.

I have seen posted opinion online that the gun paints sold are just that, Polyurethane paint.
My advice would be spray outdoors, it's nasty stuff. We provided full hood remote air systems for the guys spraying it, it can and will kill ya.

Darn close to powder coating for durability, best paint I've ever worked with for providing a really hard durable finish that stands the test of time.

One of the big reasons for powder coating is no solvents flashing off. That is air pollution and is regulated.
 
Ricklin said:
The best paint I have encountered for durability.

Polyurethane paint, the two part type that requires adding a catalyst. Sherwin-Williams if memory serves.

I have seen posted opinion online that the gun paints sold are just that, Polyurethane paint.
My advice would be spray outdoors, it's nasty stuff. We provided full hood remote air systems for the guys spraying it, it can and will kill ya.

Darn close to powder coating for durability, best paint I've ever worked with for providing a really hard durable finish that stands the test of time.

One of the big reasons for powder coating is no solvents flashing off. That is air pollution and is regulated.
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Thanks for the tip. If this paint job wears too much I will just add a little here and there or strip it and spray again.

I tried this a second time earlier this week. Went for more of a desert pattern. Turned out alright. I used a textured outdoor paint as the base layer this time to add more grip.
 
Here are a few photos of the second attempt.
 

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And two more
 

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Anything I paint is meant for field service--ergo I know it's going to bashed around. It doesn't matter how good the paint is--when crawling around in dense woods and rocks it's going to get nicked and dented. Outside of professional cerrokote treatment, I find Brownell's Aluma Hyde 2 is more than adequate for my paint jobs, especially when baked on at 200 degrees for 3.5 hours, which I think is a step above the polyurathane options (I've done lots of those too).
 
Mine will get beat up as well. This time of year I only shoot from a bench, but these rifles will be taken into the field eventually. The 6.5 Creedmoor is gonna be a primary hunting rifle for me. The 300 will be in the woods to some extent. The only place I have to shoot past 800 yards local to me, requires that I setup in the prone back in the woods a little ways and shoot across a field. Plus, painted rifles with scuffs, dings, and dents have character.
 
There is such a thing as too good a cammo job--more than once I've put my rifle down in the woods and then had a hard time finding it.
 
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