Final Finish Bore Conditioning?

I beg to differ. I am a varmint shooter. If you are going to hunt big game, then 2 MOA is not as big of deal.
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Anyone telling you that you have to lap a barrel to get better than 2MOA is trying to sell you something.

I have a couple of old military rifles that will shoot 1MOA and I can guarantee you that the armorers in Sweden did not lap the barrels on their military issue bolt rifles.

Excessive metal fouling is a worthwhile rationale for the average shooter to lap a barrel or have it lapped.

If the gun won't shoot better than 2MOA, that's a problem, all right, but I wouldn't start trying to fix the problem by lapping the bore. There are other things to check/correct first. Lapping the bore can help wring the last few tenths of an MOA of accuracy out of an already accurate bore, but it's not going to turn a 2MOA gun into a tackdriver.
 
Several years ago I used the tubbs system on a 7mm mag. The system works well and several hundred rounds later and the rifle still shoots sub moa where it shot 1.25-1.5 moa prior to using the system.
 
You fire lap a trash barrel to attempt to make it decent. If you have a decent barrel, fire lapping probably wont make it better.
 
Fire-lapping is useful either for rough barrels [from whatever reason] or for really good barrels that have [for some reason] a constriction. It use rougher grit and works well in both case if you read up on how to do the process/when to stop the process

Fire polishing (the Tubbs kit] is a much finer polishing/throat smoother system. It can also work to the user's advantage -- even on otherwise good barrels.

And yes, I have done both, to good effect each time
 
Fire-lapping is useful either for rough barrels [from whatever reason] or for really good barrels that have [for some reason] a constriction. It use rougher grit and works well in both case if you read up on how to do the process/when to stop the process

Fire polishing (the Tubbs kit] is a much finer polishing/throat smoother system. It can also work to the user's advantage -- even on otherwise good barrels.

And yes, I have done both, to good effect each time
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Both different means to the same outcome?
 
Fire Lapping is used for a very different pupose/diiferent end than Fire Polishing

Think 60 grit sandpaper to shape and uniform a surface.
Then 220-600 to make it mirror deep
 
The Tubbs kit fits right into the definition I have always used and heard used for fire lapping. If you fire an abrasive or compound down the barrel, its fire lapping. Fire lapping, fire polishing, same difference. The last barrel I fire lapped, the final compound was 8000 grit.
 
Tubbs is most definitely not firelapping -- it will not iron out constrictions in the bore, nor will
it swamp the barrel to get uniformly increasing grip on the bullet as it heads towards the muzzle.
It will merely polish existing surfaces and leave any disparity in dimensions alone.

On the other hand, the NECO system will firelap the bore -- big time. Given that you start w/ 220grit....
http://www.neconos.com/category/PRESSUREFIRELAPPING-20
You get the picture.
 
I have 130 year old guns I would not even let near that stuff that still shoot fine. A pitted up 1903 or trapdoor I would think of that but a decent bore ahh no.
 
My Tubbs kit showed up today. If the fowling issues improves, Im calling it a win. Any other benefits I would consider a bonus. I will let you folks know what the outcome is.
 
Finally... someone who will have actually used the Fire-Polish kits and note results.





(postscript: I've used it. But my vote yea/nea is already a matter of double secret probationary record.) ;)
 
Finally... someone who will have actually used the Fire-Polish kits and note results.





(postscript: I've used it. But my vote yea/nea is already a matter of double secret probationary record.) ;)
 
TheDutchman19

So far from everything I've read in this post I'm inclined to try the Tubb system, but I'd like to hear what you have to say as well. So I'll be following this thread. Thanks for starting it.
 
I'm just reluctant to mess with it at this point. One of my favorite rifles is a 722 which I don't want to re barrel if I efft it up. It has that factory bulge where the rear sight is, and the stock is inletted around it. If I rebarreled it, it wouldn't look right.
 
Here is a little more info about the kit. It comes with fifty bullets total. Ten for each of the varying abrasive steps. Much to my surprise, the coarsest bullets are not as coarse as I was expecting.

There is two different instructions depending on how your gun shoots. If your gun shoots bad, you shoot all fifty bullets, with cleaning between each abrasive step. If your gun shoots good, you skip the first two abrasive steps and start at step number three.

I took my rifle out this morning to evaluate it one more time. I would say that mine is somewhere between bad and good. I still need to go measure the groups. My rifles biggest issue is fowling. Because it fowls so bad, accuracy goes away after 30 or 40 rounds. I am leaning towards using the partial kit.

I will follow up on this post after I "pull the trigger". Meanwhile, I am going to go clean that damn gun!
 
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I just wanted to let everyone know I didn't get a chance to shoot my rifle past 25 yards for 6 rounds. It cleaned a lot easier than ever after completing the system.

Not sure how it effected accuracy as I broke in the rifle with the Tubb system.
 
Dutchman,I'd just use the entire 5 sets of bullets.

I had the same thoughts before I shot my 1st rifle with them,but I'm glad I used the entire set.

My 25/06 shot like this before The Tubb's Final Finish bullets.And,It was a copper fouling SoB.
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It shoots like this,all of the time now,and is simple to clean with hardly any copper fouling.
Berger 115gr Hunting VLD's. First shot off-Cold Clean Bore-
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