Favorite scope and recommended magnification range

So you magnify your scopes up to where you can't hold the crosshairs steady?
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I usually only use the highest power at the range. It does show the wiggle of the cross hairs more, but it doesn't cause them. The wiggle is always there, you just don't see it with less magnification.

My favorite scope is a Burris Fullfield II. It has ballistic compensation reticle and is plenty clear. It is actually a little clearer than my Vortex Viper at the same power setting. 3x-9x was my preference but lately all I can find locally is 4x-12x but it works. I keep it set on the lowest power when I am hunting. If there is an opportunity to shoot longer range I turn it up to max. Not to see better, but because that is the power setting that the ballistic reticle is subtending the proper distance.
 
As BigAl said, the wiggle is always there, it's just that it becomes more noticable the higher in magnification you go.

My 7mm Rem Mag (bought used) came with a 6-18 powered scope.
First hunting trip with it had it set on it's lowest setting (6power).
2 does came up behind me. Stopped about 20ft away from me. Put rifle up & could only see brown. Couldn't tell where on the deer it was.
Gave the scope to my neices boyfriend.

As you noticed, most of my scopes are 4-. This is due more that i prefer a scope with higher magnification on the high end. My ideal scope would be 3-16.
When walking around i have the scope at it's lowest setting.
When i'm shooting at something 300 yards +, then animals aren't as spooked and you have the time to set up, range, and dial the scope.

I live in PA, and hunt mostly along gas lines. I see animals from 20ft to 1,500 yards.
My longest shot on a deer has been 413 yards. Originally spotted at 550 yards, i closed the distance till they started to get fidgity. Had time to range , settle down & make a good shot. Scope set on 12 power.
The other week, i was targeting a family of 4 coyotes. Shot mom & 1st pup at 200 yards. 2nd pup at 375 yards. 3rd pup ran out of sight after that.
Knowing from game camera they came through every morning i had time to set up, do some predetermined ranging. Scope again set on 12 power.
 
burbank_jung,

I'm all over the place with magnification on my rifles from iron sights
to 8-32X on my heavy barrel.
Let me explain. Maybe it will help you decide:

Up close and moving - I like iron sights and scout scopes 2.5X or less.

100 yards still - 2.5 to 4X is about right although sighting in I want more power.

past 100 to 400 yards still - Use variables,
and like jmr40, they stay on lowest power until I want more for a longer shot.


I personally think your 3.5-10X variable on a "heavy barrel" 7RM
would be a good choice for hunting.

Now, I use that 8-32X on my heavy.
Have made an 80 and an 85 yard shots with it set on 8X with no problem.
Only deer I passed on was at 35 yards and would/could have made that shot if
it had stopped still.

On other hand I have made a good shot with that 2.5X scout scoped rifle at 240 yards.
So don't over think this decision;
You'll be find with a wide range of choices and practice.
 
Like many people have said, I only use the higher magnification for the range. It’s super convenient to be able to fire a round, zoom in to see the impact, make adjustments, and fire again all while never getting off the rifle. You’ll hear people say “I never needed more than x magnification”. Good for them. Use what you want to and can afford. There’s so many options now that you’ll pull your hair out lol.
 
At what magnification do you set your scopes?
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Mine stay on the lowest setting unless I need to take a longer shot. A 2X or 3X scope is plenty out to at least 100 yards. More magnification and it is hard to find the target in the scope at closer ranges due to limited field of view. If I need to take a shot up close I don't have time to mess with the magnification adjustment. I've taken deer at 200 yards on 2X before when I had to do it fast and had no time to change anything.
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I'm with jmr40 on this. I run 3x9x32 on my hunting rifle, and it stays on 3x, unless the target is out there so far I need to see it better ..... in which case, I probably have time to turn up the magnification and probably use my range finder as well. If I jump a buck or one comes walking up behind me, I don't have time to turn the magnification down ..... just point and shoot. 3x and a lot of dry fire "snap in" drills make that almost automatic.
 
I have Nikon Prostaff 5 BDC 3.5x14 on my 243, 280 and 7mmRM. With their SpotOn software, calculating your bullet/load is mahvelous. Very sorry that Nikon has stopped making scopes. On my 260, 300HAM'R, and 308, I use Vortex Strike Eagle 30mm 1x6 and 1x8. They have lighted reticles and are great for the short stuff.
 
My go-to deer rifle is a 7mm-08 Ruger, and it has a fairly old Leupold 4-12 x 40. It's a little more than I need, but this is a really nice scope that was given to me by a friend before I could afford nice scopes. Most of my hunting is done from trees or blinds, or slow, slow walking through the woods. The woods where I hunt break open to large alfalfa fields where some shots can get up to 400 yds (rarely). When I leave the truck, it's set at 4x. The only time it goes higher in 90% of hunting scenarios is if I'm trying to count points... at a distance of > 200 yards... and lower light. Given my druthers, I would probably have 3-9x50 or some such animal, but it wouldn't be better enough than what I have to justify paying for it.

On a less popular note: I am convinced that magnification preferences are entirely subjective! If you choose the advantage of seeing more (higher magnification) over the advantage of faster target acquisition, that is your choice, and vice versa. It's not uncommon to get an earful if you walk into almost any hunting scenario in North America with "too much" magnification. While I understand the prejudices developed from decades of experience (and believe me, I greatly appreciate the access we have the wisdom of others' experience), I don't think there is a "right" answer. If something works well for you, that's what you should do.
 
Hunting scope

4x12 Leupold with the LRD reticle, with most calibers I use {7-08, 223, 6.5prc,7mm saum} I sight the bottom dot in to hit a standard clay pigeon at 400yds, that puts the next dot up right on at 300yds and the crosshair above it on at 200yards.
Unfortunately Leupold has discontinued that reticle but I see them on ebay frequently.
I have to say that the last few years Leupold has been a real disappointment on many levels, they've went from the premier American optics company to a shining example of mediocrity.
 
I'm still reading everyone's comments. When buying a scope, do you determine your eye relieve before buying your scopes? Do you determine your scope height while shouldering your rifle and choosing bases before purchasing? Does a lighter single power scope make the rifle more stable as it would be less top heavy? Are the Browning scopes made by Redding any good? Has anyone used one? I'd have to read about 32mm vs 40mm objectives and my concern is that the 32mm is not bright enough during dusk and early dawn. Thanks
 
If you have a wood stock and a heavy barreled 7mag I would assume your not hunting sheep, goats or elk with it!
You didn't say where hunt but weight of the rifle mustn't be a big consideration, another pound+for a scope and rings isn't going to ruin your day.
If the weight isn't a problem bigger is always better when it comes to light transmission and field of view so a 40mm or larger objective and a 30mm tube would be nice, you'll need high rings for the scope to clear the gun.
Your 7mag will be alot easier to shoot if you can get the weight up over 10lbs to slow the recoil down.
I sometimes end up walking alot on hunts so weight is pretty big factor in my guns, standard weight barrels, synthetic stocks and 40mm/1"/non-adjustable objectives all help to keep the loaded rifle with a sling around 8lbs.
 
When buying a scope, do you determine your eye relieve before buying your scopes? Do you determine your scope height while shouldering your rifle and choosing bases before purchasing? Does a lighter single power scope make the rifle more stable as it would be less top heavy?
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Yes
No
No

Yes I choose eye relief based on recoil that I expect. On a hunting rifle it hurts when the scope taps your eyebrow. I like about 4 inches on heavy recoiling magnums. A little less is ok on smaller stuff.

No, I try to get the scope as low as the design of the scope and rifle allow. If the scope is too high you loose cheek weld on the stock. This affects accuracy. Just don't go too low and have the bell touching the barrel.

Never had a scope that made my gun wobble side to side. Proper grip on the gunstock will take care of it. A few ounces more scope isn't going to change that.
 
you know it is all subjective

my old 7mag has a 4-12x40 leupold on it,,,i use a ruger 223 with an old 8x40 leupold on it,,,i use a 250ai 99 savage that has a 6x lyman all american on it,,,i have a savage 6.5CM that has a 6-24x56 with a 34mm tube,,,,i have a 308 savage that has a 8.5-32x56 on it,,,i like them all,,,,,,this year for deer season i plan on using the 6.5CM......yes it has a big scope,,,,yes it is bright and clear,,,but it is a variable and the beauty about it is,,,, i can turn it down to where ever i want it to be or if i need it i have plenty to turn up

all that being said,,,,i think,,,,,you should see what your budget will allow and then that is where i would start looking

but you should keep in mind that a $300 scope today will rival the top end scopes from 20 years ago,,,maybe even 10 years ago

i do like fixed power scopes,,,,BUT,,,you sure cant go wrong with a good variable and then you can have what ever power you want

look at vortex,,,leupold,,any of the better brands,,,,even though nikon is getting out of the scope business they still made some fine scopes,,,,with maybe now no warranty ,,,,but it all depends how much you want to spend

i dont care much for buying used glass,,,,,,but there are some killer deals out there for older stuff

and that is my .02,,,,worth exactly that too

ocharry
 
A higher quality scope can make more difference in brightness than the 50 MM front end. The old small 2.2to 8 Vari X 3 is brighter than a 3-9 Vari X2 . My compact 3-9 Burris is just as bright as the 40MM 3-9 Vari x 2. The better lens coatings make it brighter. I prefer mounting the scope as low as possible, do not like the 50 MM scopes, especially when they aren't as bright as a smaller scope. Also, check out some of the 40MM German scopes...
 
My 7 short mag wears a 4x12-40mm Leupold, it's normally an elk only rifle so the suppressor comes off for trudging up and down steep canyons.
Even with a lightweight stock and all aluminum rings and bases the 700 magnum contour 24" barrel makes makes the gun heavier than I like after a couple of days hunting. It's a little over 8lbs loaded ready to go with a nylon sling, not a true mountain gun for sure.
The 4x12 Leupold is a pretty light scope, there has been many variations of it but there all about the same weight 12.0 oz, with aluminum rings you can keep the total weight for both to around a 1lb.
Lots of imported scopes as well as steel tubed scopes are closer to 18oz + rings, but like I said earlier if the op isn't hunting in the mountains weight and size doesn't matter.

 
I have a Browning Olympian 7rm that was purchased years ago. My friends at the time hunted with 7rm and this is the rifle I found. The rifle has a barrel than is not a bull barrel but is thicker than a Remington BDL. It became a long term project after I got married, had a kid, and had less money and time. My plan was to use it for deer or pig hunting here in CA and if I left the state with my friends, I'd go elk hunting. I want to complete the rifle.

I reload and shoot curio-relics sometimes so I'm comfortable shooting open sights. The Browning does not have open sights.
 
That has a contour similar to the 700 magnum barrel, you were probably comparing it to a standard 30-06 or a mountain rifle. California pig hunting can entail some pretty good hiking, might want to stay with the 4x12 or a 4.5x14 Leupold and aluminum rings and bases.
If it has that high gloss stock I'd look for one more suitable to hunting, they look good in the store and when your friends are over for a gun show but need to be in a padded case when outdoors! Someone makes a synthetic stock for it.
 
If the scope is too high you loose cheek weld on the stock. This affects accuracy.
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It does more than just affect accuracy- it also also does not give you a repeatable reference point when mounting the gun ..... makes finding the target in the scope slower on snap shots. You will never consistently be able to hit moving targets if your face is bobbing around above the stock trying to keep a sight picture, while the gun is moving to stay on target ..... the whole has to move as a unit, or you are just hoping that you hit something at random...... the same goes when you touch the round off: the whole deal has to recoil as a unit, or the gun will go back, push your shoulder, which, being connected to your neck, and neck to your head, will pull your head down into the stock ..... letting your gun take a run and smack you in the face every time you squeeze the trigger is a recipe for flinching.

You should be able to look at a target, close your eyes, mount the gun, open your eyes and have the reticle centered in the scope, and if not on, then very near to on the target..... If you must move your head around to obtain a sight picture, the gun is not set up right.
 
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