F.LLipietta Engraved Colt 1851 Navy Stainless

day late and a silver eagle short

Last post on this thread is damn near a year old, hope someone reads this anyway. I bought one of these yesterday at less than the price of a carton of Camels. I thought it was cutsie, other than a few minor scratches on the grips it apears unfired. I get to liking it more and more. I am not a big c&b fan; I just don't have the patients for it. Now being both a SASS member and being cursed with Gemini birth I must have another. Awesome wheel gun for the price!
 
is that a true stainless gun, or nickel plating ? be careful, because a lot of these imports are selling "nickel finish" guns, when in fact they have brass frames with nickel plating

check it with a magnet first, if the magnet doesn't stick, it's not stainless, it's nickel plated brass

a local here had a "nickel" C/B for sale, checked it with kitchen magnet, it was actually brass frame

take a stainless kitchen knife, a magnet will stick to it
 
They do - or at least did. I've got one and would like to get another.

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FM
 
They work best with .454 round balls. www.bpstuffllc.com is a great source for balls & wads. They will shoot conicals also; but they're highr and arent readily available unless you cast your own. Cabelas is a source for caps. First thing you should do is replace the nipples with Treso's (www.thunder-ridge.com) or stainless steel ones. I prefer Treso. #10 Remingtons fit perfectly on them, and the smaller flash hole reduces the possibility of caps getting blown back into the action.


Where do I find these nipples. The link given in last years post did not work (www.thunder-ridge.com) . I need to eliminate the caps getting blown back into the action if possible when I am shooting CAS

Also, I have an 1891 mauser that I inheireted from my grandfather that looks like brand new. The polished bolt has never had much oil or grease on it and this is absolutely no rust on it. A magnet sticks tight to it (I just tried it).
 
Where do I find these nipples. The link given in last years post did not work (www.thunder-ridge.com) . I need to eliminate the caps getting blown back into the action if possible when I am shooting CAS
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A few things you can do to improve the reliability and reduce the cap jams.

New nipples with smaller vent holes reduce blow back.
A heavier hammer spring well reduce blow back but increase trigger pull. Trigger pull can be over come with proper stone and polish work.
Make sure the caps fit the nipple correctly, this may entail modifying the nipple length or diameter/taper.
On the top right side of the recoil shield there is a slot that allows the fired caps to slide out of the frame when cocking, polish this slot so there are no burrs or rough spots on it.
I have seen some folks put a small pin in the hammer slot, under the hammer, in the frame to keep caps from falling into the frame cavity.

I'm sure there are other ideas from members.
 
I know this is an ole thread but since it is about the same revolver I'd like to have I responded to it. I know I can get this revolver at Cabelas and other outlets, but if anyone has a good deal on a nice used .44 one please let me know.



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Gosh, how did I miss that? I check gunbroker almost every day. Thanks for that info Fingers. However,....I see some possible problems and marring of it.

The backstrap just below the hammer appears to have an inordinate gap between the backstrap and the main frame. At least one of the backstrap screw heads is buggered, not a biggie, but apparent. And the worst of all is that someone banged with something metal (probably a screwdriver) and marred up the right side of the wedge and then slipped and badly scratched the barrel just above the wedge messing up the engraving and looks on that side.

Sigh, I just can't understand someone taking metal to the wedge and buggering up the wedge and scratching the barrel like that when a wooden implement would do the job equally as well and with no possibility of scratching and marring. A screw can be replaced. The backstrap might just need its screws tightened. But finding a replacement wedge in that special "white metal" would be hard to do and there is nothing that can be done about the barrel being badly scratched up. I was tempted to bid when I first saw it, but upon looking more closely and further reflection, that buggered up wedge and scratched barrel pretty much ruins it for me. I think I'll wait for one in better shape.




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Finger McGee wrote:
Well, it is listed as being used. I haven't seen a used one yet that didn't have some dings around the wedge - except mine :D.
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"Except mine :D"
Lol, but of course Fingers. That's because we know what we're doing while obviously others who take a ball peen hammer and screwdriver to their wedges don't. Which makes me wonder how well the cylinder and barrel was maintained. The ad didn't say anything about the bore or cylinder condition. If it was just the wedge that was marred, I could make one of those out of stainless steel to match on my mill. But there's not much that can be done about the barrel being badly scratched on the engraving just above the wedge. That would bug me forever. The whole reason for having this model is because of its fine looks.

I know it's used and the price is reasonable, but whoever buggered up that wedge and badly scratched that barrel, obviously did not tighten the screws on the backstrap either, and I'm wondering if maybe the reason the screws aren't tightened and there's that gap between the backstrap and main frame is because maybe the threads in the frame are stripped? Might just be loose screws but could be stripped threads. I don't want to buy it and then find out the worst that the frame threads are stripped. Seeing that gap in the pics is not good. If you were the seller and saw that gap wouldn't you see to it that the screws were tightened....if they could be?

With the gap between the backstrap and frame, plus the buggered up wedge and badly scratched barrel, and realizing whoever owned it did not know what they were doing, that makes me very leery of bidding on that one.

I don't mind paying a bit more for another used one in good shape that doesn't have those detraction's I saw in that one.


But after looking at another (different from that auction) Pietta .44 1851 Marshall as shown below (brand new).....
2637010220099763970S600x600Q85.jpg


I also looked at this (brand new) Pietta 1860 .44 Marshall from Marstar of Canada that also appears to be in the same type of polished white metal as the 1851 is made out of.....
2874540730099763970S600x600Q85.jpg


I like both revolvers a lot (especially partial to their half fluted cylinders) and naturally would like to have them both. I admit I am a bit more partial to the more sleek design of the 1860's barrel and loading lever. I've only seen the polished 1860 offered by Marstar of Canada and am not sure if it is available from other outlets in the U.S. since I think (but am not sure) that Marstar of Canada products cannot be imported to the U.S.

And then I just found this mate to my other nickel and gold plated 1860 Pietta for sale at $235.00 and even though I only paid $160.00 for mine in almost perfect condition several years ago, with the way things have gone up that isn't a bad price.
1860amy2.jpg


So decisions, decisions. Go with a good used 1851 or 1860 Marshall models in polished white metal, or get the mate to my nickel & gold plated 8" barrel 1860. Perhaps instead of saying "decisions, decisions" I should say "addiction, addiction!" Lol.



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I don't think it's that bad. If it was a .36 I might even be tempted.
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If it was a .36, we wouldn't be having this conversation - I'd have it already. I need a mate for the '51 I already have.

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And could use a mate for my '61 too:

Engraved61Navy1.jpg


Bill, I know where you're coming from. On the wedge, I have a pair of the .44 Sheriffs. One has in-the-white screws and wedge, the other has blued screws and wedge like the one in your photo.

FM
 
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playtheblues - man, I don't care if that pistol is made out of gummy bears and has candy corn for nipples! That is one sweet looking revolver! I have a feeling you are really going to enjoy that little beauty and have a lot of fun with it! Good luck to you! :)
 
Fingers, is that '61 of yours the same one I showed a pic of that Marstar of Canada has available? They look the same only yours has the shoulder stock cutouts and I didn't see those on the one from Marstar. Also, where did you get those white grips on your '51 Marshall? Are they PVC? Did it come that way or did you get replacement grips?

Kudos to you Fingers, you have the exact two I would also like to get. Only I like mine in .44 if I can get them that way. I've had .36's in the past and may again, but I think "WHY?". Why have a .36 if the same revolver is available in .44? The .44 is usually only a little larger and with my big hands and with the way I can twirl and sling around my full size 8" barrel '60 Colts, a tiny bit extra weight or size means little to me and I'd rather have the better knock down power of a .44

The only time I would deviate from that is when there is a revolver I really like that is available in .36 only. Such as this ASM I wish they had made in .44 but was only made in .36
pix640855225.jpg

That ASM kind of reminds me of the Marstar Pietta one and your '61 Pietta fingers. Only I think since I've found that yours and the Marstar one is available in .44, I'm not quite so interested in the .36 ASM anymore. So if I can get the same thing in .44, I'll never get a .36
More knockdown power and just one size of lead balls to deal with cutting down on clutter and confusion of which size balls are in which pouch for which revolver. I like just having one size fits all.

After years of having various blue steel BP revolvers that I had to chase rust on constantly, I'm only attracted to stainless and nickel BP revolvers these days. I haven't bought a blue steel one in decades. The only blue steel BP revolver I would buy to keep is a good used 1858 Remy carbine, and only because they don't make them in stainless or nickel. When I do get one, I'm going to have it nickel plated too. Nickel and stainless just clean so much easier and won't corrode up as easily either. Just my thing. Each to their own.


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Fingers, is that '61 of yours the same one I showed a pic of that Marstar of Canada has available? They look the same only yours has the shoulder stock cutouts and I didn't see those on the one from Marstar. Also, where did you get those white grips on your '51 Marshall? Are they PVC? Did it come that way or did you get replacement grips?
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No, the Marstar one in your picture is a .44 Cal 1860 Army Sheriffs model. Mine is a .36 Cal 1861 Navy Sheriffs model. The steel BS, steel TG, and grips on the .36cal '51 model came from an EMF Great Western II. It came originally with Pietta's standard brass square back trigger guard, brass backstrap, and walnut grips. I don't like the shape of Pietta 1851 grips and change them when I can. I have a steel BS and TG for the '61; but don't have grips for it yet.
 
SUIFTWATER,
Purty little pistol!
I noticed the load you posted, don't you think it's a mite anemic for a .44 load?
I know that the manufacturer promotes super light loads for legal reasons but you might get better preformance with at least a 25 gr load.
If the frame material is just silver plated brass, then hold to a 20-22 gr load but if the frame is steel it will handle (and shoot more accurately) if you "up" the powder charge a bit. For instance I load my .36 caliber Steel, Uberti London at 22-25 gr and I load my Steel Remington at 35 grains.
JMHO,
ZVP
 
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