Explain the "tuckable iwb" please...

Okie47

New member
This may be your stupid question of the day, but please, could you explain to this ol' guy how to put an IWB on my gun belt with clips, and then tuck my shirttail in? It just goes against physics. I carry a G27 IWB at 5:00 with a loose shirt, tail out...raise that tail and there's a lot of baby cannon showing. Seriously though, please reference a model to see or explain it to me..:)
 
The clips are attached to the bottom of the holster so there's room for your shirt tail between the holster and the clips.

The clips still show, of course.
 
There are two main parts of the holster. The actual part that holds the gun, and the part with the belt clip. They are attached near the bottom of the holster. Think of it as a book, with the binding at the bottom and the open pages at the top. Your shirt tucks in to the 'pages' in between the gun and the clip.
It works great. I carry my Shield in a 'High Noon' Split Decision holster.

Steve
 
Wondered about that myself. Is drawing your weapon just as quick? (as with shirt un-tucked) Seems like it would add an extra step.
 
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Is drawing your weapon just as quick? (as with shirt un-tucked) Seems like it would add an extra step.

No, it's not as quick because you do in fact have to pull up your shirt to establish a grip and then draw.

The advantage is deeper concealment and the option to dress differently so as not to have to go untucked.
 
I confess to being quite ignorant on the topic of holsters, so please excuse me if this is not addressing the question.

I had (until I sold the pistol) the IWB holser shown and used it with a Kahr CW40. It rode the pistol down against my thigh near my crotch. (The large flat area went against the pants leg.) It was comfortable for walking, standing, and yes even sitting.) I could draw from any position, even sitting. With most of my pants (and with my shirt tucked in) it was not discernable. I could draw one of three ways: (1) Simply reaching in, which was slighly slower or (2) having my hand in my pocket where I could push up on the barrel with my finger to raise the pistol, which made for a very fast draw or (3) by replacing the metal belt clip with my cell phone holder I could just lift the cell phone with my off hand, which raised the pistol right into my waiting shooting hand. The third method was how I used the holster most.

I liked the holster a lot, but sold it with the pistol. If I ever choose a different carry pistol of a similar size then I'll get another (if I can find the receipt to get me the manufacturer's name). Since I can't find the manufacturer's web site at the moment, I can't say if they make one that would also accommodate a mag'.
 

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It's not really too much extra work, and the motion is the same in both cases. Either you're lifting up your untucked shirt with your off hand, or you're pulling your tucked shirt out from between your pants and gun with your off hand.
 
...the motion is the same in both cases. Either you're lifting up your untucked shirt with your off hand, or you're pulling your tucked shirt out from between your pants and gun with your off hand.
I don't think I'm as quick on the uptake as the OP. It would help me to see a picture of the type of holster being described. If I'm picturing it correctly the pistol grip remains above the belt line, which seems like it would print like crazy unless the shirt were worn really lose. (I'm just trying to understand, not hijack a thread.)
 
Here's a picture of a tuckable IWB, with the two parts of the holster held apart:

108923779_tuck-tuckable-in-pant-iwb-holster-4-kahr-pm9p380-ebay.jpg


You can see how the "clip part" attaches to your belt, and your shirt will tuck in between the "clip part" and the "holster part".

Yes, you do have to "blouse" your shirt slightly to keep from printing with a tuckable IWB holster.
 
This is a Crossbreed SuperTuck with home made "combat cut".

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This shows the clips that make it tuckable.

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Here it is "installed".

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And tucked

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If I'm picturing it correctly the pistol grip remains above the belt line, which seems like it would print like crazy unless the shirt were worn really lose.

Yes. My grip remains above the belt but it doesn't print. But then I don't wear tight fitting clothes.

Spandex tights don't do well with any type of concealment. :)
 
I, too, thought that it would slow down the draw considerably, but I have been collecting data as I have been practicing and while I can draw and fire one shot in, on average, 1.64 seconds with my shirt untucked, it only takes me 1.69 seconds with it fully tucked. The times are slightly more variable with the shirt tucked, but I think that as I practice more, the added concealment will come at almost no cost. If I wear it under a t-shirt, the steel is a little cold for a moment or two :eek: but from a comfort perspective, I think that they are great! I am looking into adding a velcro strip to my belt so that I can make and use some velcro clips and that will take the stealth factor up 2 or 3 notches, as the rear clip is the only "tell" that this system currently has.

Saands
 
My wife and I both use the DeSantis holster,she with her Walther PPK/S,and I with my LC9.
I also use my Crossbreed Mini Tuk with my LC9. They both work quite well.
 
There are a number of clips available for these tuckable style holsters.

The standard covers the front of the belt, which is plainly visible but often overlooked by the casual onlooker. To me, just not enough concealment and negates the holster.

The J hooks go up over the pants, behind the belt, and snag the underside of the belt to help keep the holster in place web you draw the gun. Much better in concealment, but doesn't help support the weight of the holster.

The third type, which I use on my tuckable holsters, is the C clip, which functions as the J hook, but has a top piece to ride atop the belt to help distribute the weight of the gun and keep the holster in place. The C clips thereby hook on the top and bottom of the belt, but the front is open, making it less noticeable. The downside is that you have to get the right size for your belt width, or they don't stay in place as well.

I think M-tac still sells all of the clip types, but I haven't seen them available from all holster manufacturers. I just ordered the new clips (in a color of my usual belt) and swapped them out.
 
Gluing a piece of leather to the back of the belt could solve the support issues.

Say your holster uses one clip that is one inch wide.
(1) Glue a 3.5" strap of leather to the back of the belt where you want to holster your pistol. Only the ends of the strap should be glued to the belt. The middle 1.5" should remain unglued.
(2) The unglued center section leaves a channel between the strap and the belt between which the holster clip may be passed.
(3) The holster clip would go over the pants and over the added strap, but between the strap and the belt.
(4) The strap would support the weight of the pistol while the belt itself hides the clip.
(5) Of course, cut the height of the strap to the height of the belt and make it the same color. I'm not a leather worker by any stretch of the imagination, but I have had great results on repairing my wife's purse straps using rubber cement, although there are leather specific adhesives available. (Maybe a cobbler would give you a small amount.)

A cell phone holder attached to the front of a clip will also successfully conceal a clip that goes over the top of the belt.

I used both of these strategies with the holster I described in my post above.
 
Things that work against a well executed, fast draw:

Eight thousand draws with a standard IWB holster. Different is different. It's bad to execute one procedure with the wrong holster.

Things that work against accumulating eight thousand draws with a tuckable holster:

It takes considerably longer to holster and then tuck your shirt back in around the holster than it does to holster. If you don't tuck your shirt back in, you're not training the way you'd fight.

Things to consider once you have nine thousand draws with one system and eight thousand with the other: don't forget which system you're wearing. Change is bad.

After two range sessions, I went back to a VM-II. During a gunfight, the draw is not the place I want to think, concentrate or analyze. I want to put the same amount of thought into the draw as I do when I'm using a clutch to drive.
 
Things that work against accumulating eight thousand draws with a tuckable holster:

It takes considerably longer to holster and then tuck your shirt back in around the holster than it does to holster. If you don't tuck your shirt back in, you're not training the way you'd fight.

Nature provides you at least a few opportunities every single day to practice accessing (not drawing, but accessing) your gun. You can easily make a habit of quickly yanking up your shirt and getting your hand properly on the gun whenever you need to use the restroom and at the end of the day when you're changing clothes. That quickly gets you a lot of reps at the most difficult part of the draw, and you're going to be untucking at those times anyway.

Again, don't draw then. But practice accessing the gun every opportunity you get, and the complete draw takes care of itself because you practice that in regular dry fire or at the range.

pax
 
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