Evaluations Please: Ruger GP 100 ....

I recommend the Gp141. I have a GP161 to carry in my truck and for home protection. I fire mine pretty much in single action but for double action you might want to get a trigger job done. Rugers are probably the most durable wheelgun out there. I traded a Ruger Security six in for it and I NEVER had a problem in the 15 years that I owned it.
 
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GP-100 Pawl Issue

Hey guys, I know this was brought up before, but let me know if anyone else has had a problem with the GP-100 trigger sticking in it's furthest back position.... especially noticable with the lighter Wolff trigger spring.

What happened to me is I sent back my GP-100 for excessive end-play (I know what you mean Lone Star!), my cylinder had too much forward and back movement. Anyway, the gun came back from Ruger with a nice tight cylinder, BUT.... I had to work the pawl over pretty good to get the trigger to behave properly.

I have since tried a handful of new pawls in the gun (friend=gunsmith) and every new pawl will 'overshoot' the extractor ring and cause it to hang (unless the pawl is smoothed out quite a bit).

ANYONE else have this issue? I bet they need to hand-fit the extractor and pawl at the Ruger factory to prevent this. Any ideas?
 
I have two. I have to recommend them. I also feel that they are easier to work on compared to the SW design. The rebound spring on the SW is harder to remove. There is no sideplate to mess with on the Ruger.

I bought the Wolff springs and two stones from Midway, made by Norton. Also got the stone oil. A dremel tool to break the edges on the finger surface of the trigger helps. The hammer can also have sharp serrations on them, light touches with the dremel grinding attachment takes care of it.

I also had a problem right out of the box with the cylinder barrel gap. Tide the gun up, Ruger adjusted this and all is good since.


2000 rds through one and 300 the other, no problems. I use 11.7 grns #9 with 158 grn remington SJHP. recoil never hurts but the gun can get hot enough to hurt with reloading.


there is a book by Kuhnhausen that is very detailed, written for the similar Securuty Six series.
 
Thanks for the evaluations everyone.

Just got back fromt he range with my new Ruger GP 100 (Model: KP 141) ... man is it sweet!

First group out of the gun was in the 2-1/2" circle at 25 Yards.

I love this revolver!:)
 
all this GP talk.....

I had to go out in the yard and shoo mine yesterday....it's been a couple of weeks,because I've been practicing w/ my new 38 and my MKII.....I LOVE my GP!It's a pleasure to shoot,even w/ the hot loads.......I'd go out again today but it's raining:(
you made a good choice...........:D
 
Mine JUST NOW started acting up!! :mad: :mad:

The trigger won't reset completely now. I either have to push forward on it, or let it snap forward all the way from the rear to get it to go that last little bit. It resets fine with the hammer removed, and by marking the trigger where it comes out of the frame, it's visually obvious that the trigger doesn't go as far forward with the hammer in place. I'll be on the phone to Ruger tomorrow. :mad: :(
 
IT'S THE PAWL !

"Jeff CA":

Your trigger problem appears the same as mine. EVERY new pawl I use is slightly different, and the trigger will stick back only if I smooth the pawl out carefully. If you want more details, let me know. Also, let us know how you plan to fix yours- and what Ruger says about it - Greg

"Hey guys, I know this was brought up before, but let me know if anyone else has had a problem with the GP-100 trigger sticking in it's furthest back position.... especially noticable with the lighter Wolff trigger spring.

What happened to me is I sent back my GP-100 for excessive end-play (I know what you mean Lone Star!), my cylinder had too much forward and back movement. Anyway, the gun came back from Ruger with a nice tight cylinder, BUT.... I had to work the pawl over pretty good to get the trigger to behave properly.

I have since tried a handful of new pawls in the gun (friend=gunsmith) and every new pawl will 'overshoot' the extractor ring and cause it to hang (unless the pawl is smoothed out quite a bit).

ANYONE else have this issue? I bet they need to hand-fit the extractor and pawl at the Ruger factory to prevent this. Any ideas?"

This problem is also posted in here:

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=108074&highlight=GP100+pawl

and here ....

http://groups.google.com/groups?q=gp-100+pawl&hl=en&selm=a7hubk$nv9$1@grapevine.wam.umd.edu&rnum=2

and here....

http://groups.google.com/groups?q=gp-100+pawl&hl=en&selm=aae5qq$k6b$1@grapevine.wam.umd.edu&rnum=1
 
:confused:

If it's the pawl, why does it work perfectly without the hammer in place? The pawl is doing its thing even then. There is no contact between the two.

My problem is in the play between the parts called the "trigger plunger" and the "cylinder latch" (check your parts diagram). The last thing to click back into place as the trigger resets is the trigger plunger snapping back on top of the cylinder latch. Then, the trigger plunger pulls the cylinder latch down as soon as the trigger starts moving rearward again. On mine, though, the trigger isn't moving far enough forward for the trigger plunger to snap back up onto the cylinder latch.

I should clarify - the trigger is going forward smoothly, without any hangups, but it just hasn't "clicked" before it reaches its stop. I'm actually pressing it against its stop to make it reset. I can also make it reset by pushing downward on the hammer. That makes sense, since the part of the trigger in contact with the hammer at that point is moving downward. So I think there's some hangup in the trigger/hammer interplay. I'm not going to mess with it.
 
Jeff, thanks for the clarification. I understand now. Trigger not moving far enough forward to reset the cylinder latch.

I think Ruger 'expects' people to use their trigger (and main) springs; the factory trigger spring is rated higher, as you know, and when they hand-fit the gun part during final assy, they do not tak into account someone using softer springs, such as Wolff. So the factory spring would push the trigger forward.

Do you have the original springs in the gun now? - Greg

PS, what did Ruger say about it?
 
Original springs. I had been thinking of putting in Wolffs, and I may yet; I don't think the problem is due to weak springs.

Ruger says it's probably due to the hammer/trigger interplay. It's a close tolerance thing evidently, and it doesn't take much for it to get out of spec. That doesn't inspire much confidence.

Just checked UPS. It went out last night; it's almost noon on the east coast, and it isn't there yet. It cost me $40 for next day, too. :mad:
 
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