Model12Win
Moderator
Is the MR73 still used? Also, why was it in use for so long? Isn't it woefully inadequate compared to something like a Glock or Beretta M9?
email ad for Manurhin MR 73.. seconds to act
- Thread starter Clark
- Start date
BinaryBoris
Inactive
Just a heads up: I called AIM this morning and they had 9 "X Grade" Manurhins that they did not advertise. According to the guy I talked to on the phone, these are likely to have cracks on the grips and more surface wear (scratches, etc).
The best part? They're $100 off, so they run $399 shipped.
They had 9 but they now have at most 8, because at that price I had to order one.
The best part? They're $100 off, so they run $399 shipped.
They had 9 but they now have at most 8, because at that price I had to order one.
BinaryBoris
Inactive
He said they were in good mechanical condition - the "x grade" only had to do with cosmetics, specifically scratches, cracks in the bottom of the grips, and basically a lot of bluing loss.
For me, it sounds like a perfect candidate for a duracoat type treatment and modifying the grips.
Plus at $399 delivered the price was right - especially considering how hard these things are to get.
For me, it sounds like a perfect candidate for a duracoat type treatment and modifying the grips.
Plus at $399 delivered the price was right - especially considering how hard these things are to get.
I called AIM, but they're out of "X-grade" adjustable-sight MR73s, so I guess I'll wait and hope I'm able to get one of these some other time.
I found some info on refinishing, by the way, in case you're interested. I asked Cylinder & Slide if they would reblue a Manurhin; they said no and referred me to Turnbull. Turnbull said they don't work on them, but they referred me to Glenrock Blue (http://gunbluing.com). Glenrock Blue said they would reblue a Manurhin and that they've worked on them before. Their prices look quite reasonable, and the reviews on the various gun forums are uniformly very positive. Several people on the 1911forum had higher-end guns refinished by Glenrock Blue and were pretty effusive in praising their work.
I came across a lot of mentions/recommendations of Ford's Refinishing as well (http://www.fordsguns.com/). I wasn't able to get ahold of them to see if they would work on a Manurhin, however. They seem to be a better-known outfit than Glenrock, and their prices appear even better for a given type of work: a 400-grit polish (equivalent to or better than most standard factory blued finishes) at Glenrock and Ford's runs you $275 and $165, respectively; $275 at Ford's gets you a 555-grit polish. The skill of the person doing the polishing is obviously the most important factor, so maybe there's a good reason that Glenrock is pricier. Figuring that out will take more sleuthing. That said, I didn't come across anything but positive reviews for Ford's in the several threads I read. It would be worth figuring out if they would work on an MR73.
I found some info on refinishing, by the way, in case you're interested. I asked Cylinder & Slide if they would reblue a Manurhin; they said no and referred me to Turnbull. Turnbull said they don't work on them, but they referred me to Glenrock Blue (http://gunbluing.com). Glenrock Blue said they would reblue a Manurhin and that they've worked on them before. Their prices look quite reasonable, and the reviews on the various gun forums are uniformly very positive. Several people on the 1911forum had higher-end guns refinished by Glenrock Blue and were pretty effusive in praising their work.
I came across a lot of mentions/recommendations of Ford's Refinishing as well (http://www.fordsguns.com/). I wasn't able to get ahold of them to see if they would work on a Manurhin, however. They seem to be a better-known outfit than Glenrock, and their prices appear even better for a given type of work: a 400-grit polish (equivalent to or better than most standard factory blued finishes) at Glenrock and Ford's runs you $275 and $165, respectively; $275 at Ford's gets you a 555-grit polish. The skill of the person doing the polishing is obviously the most important factor, so maybe there's a good reason that Glenrock is pricier. Figuring that out will take more sleuthing. That said, I didn't come across anything but positive reviews for Ford's in the several threads I read. It would be worth figuring out if they would work on an MR73.
AustinTx,
a 400 grit is not quite a high polish. I am more into Korth revolvers but know that Manurhin gave the commercial models a very good polishing job. Korth did not use a wheel to polish their guns, by the way.
I am not rebluing enough guns to warrant the expense and dedicated work space for a hot bluing tank and setup, so I rust blue my guns. I had toyed with the idea to convert a deep fryer into a bluing tank but never researched it in more detail.
I am also looking for a trade-in MR73 and if you find a source, please pm or email me. Rust bluing is labor intensive but can yield excellent results! Lugers were rust blued until 1936 and everything you need to have for it is the solution and general household items.
a 400 grit is not quite a high polish. I am more into Korth revolvers but know that Manurhin gave the commercial models a very good polishing job. Korth did not use a wheel to polish their guns, by the way.
I am not rebluing enough guns to warrant the expense and dedicated work space for a hot bluing tank and setup, so I rust blue my guns. I had toyed with the idea to convert a deep fryer into a bluing tank but never researched it in more detail.
I am also looking for a trade-in MR73 and if you find a source, please pm or email me. Rust bluing is labor intensive but can yield excellent results! Lugers were rust blued until 1936 and everything you need to have for it is the solution and general household items.
PzGren, I will keep you in mind and PM you here and at GT if I stumble onto an MR73 stash. Please do the same for me, if you'd be so kind!
I actually bought a stunning 99%+ 6" MR73 Sport from Michael a couple of weeks ago, so I've got an example of a beautifully-polished Manurhin. My research here was more about finding a low-cost way to make one of these well-worn surplus guns look serviceable aesthetically. One of the sites says 400-grit is equivalent to or a little better than your average mass-production blued finish -- I'm not sure exactly what it would look like, but I wouldn't expect it to be breathtaking. But now that I'm thinking about it, if I go through the trouble to have one of them refinished, I'll probably spend up a bit for a finer polished look.
Speaking of Korths, by the way, do you have some of them imported? Now that I've got most of my P210 collection taken care of, it's time for me to look at adding some. I've heard that they can be less expensive if you have them imported, but I don't have any experience in that area yet.
I actually bought a stunning 99%+ 6" MR73 Sport from Michael a couple of weeks ago, so I've got an example of a beautifully-polished Manurhin. My research here was more about finding a low-cost way to make one of these well-worn surplus guns look serviceable aesthetically. One of the sites says 400-grit is equivalent to or a little better than your average mass-production blued finish -- I'm not sure exactly what it would look like, but I wouldn't expect it to be breathtaking. But now that I'm thinking about it, if I go through the trouble to have one of them refinished, I'll probably spend up a bit for a finer polished look.
Speaking of Korths, by the way, do you have some of them imported? Now that I've got most of my P210 collection taken care of, it's time for me to look at adding some. I've heard that they can be less expensive if you have them imported, but I don't have any experience in that area yet.
Rustbluing
From this ....
to that .....
in a couple of days at the expense of $5 and plenty of beer to make sure that I don't get dehydrated. The more layers of blue you will apply, the richer and deeper it will be.
My sons' first project. He did that in kindergarden
.
You can see the rough sanding marks but the bluing fills it in.
From this ....
to that .....
in a couple of days at the expense of $5 and plenty of beer to make sure that I don't get dehydrated. The more layers of blue you will apply, the richer and deeper it will be.
My sons' first project. He did that in kindergarden
.You can see the rough sanding marks but the bluing fills it in.
That looks like the way to go for sure.A bottle of solution is around $40 plus shipping, steel wool, fine wire brushes, wet dry paper, degreaser and destilled water, a stainless pot, rubber gloves, old towels, and thongs.
That and patience is all that is needed.
Oh ... And the beer
!
I practiced on small scrapped parts first. When you are ready, lmk and I will guide you through it.
That and patience is all that is needed.
Oh ... And the beer
!I practiced on small scrapped parts first. When you are ready, lmk and I will guide you through it.
BinaryBoris
Inactive
Getting caught up on the thread - sorry been a busy few days.
Thank you for the excellent research and links, Austin. I checked all those sites out and it looks like they do great work. It's good to know I have that option.
I'm also thinking about trying to do the bluing myself and have no problems with being patient and taking my time. That looks like some excellent results from the "rust bluing" and definitely sounds like something that I could pull off (and doesn't require a massive amount of investment).
I'm hoping these revolvers show up at my FFL over the weekend, at which time I'll be able to see their actual condition and post up some photos.
Thank you for the excellent research and links, Austin. I checked all those sites out and it looks like they do great work. It's good to know I have that option.
I'm also thinking about trying to do the bluing myself and have no problems with being patient and taking my time. That looks like some excellent results from the "rust bluing" and definitely sounds like something that I could pull off (and doesn't require a massive amount of investment).
I'm hoping these revolvers show up at my FFL over the weekend, at which time I'll be able to see their actual condition and post up some photos.
As far as I'm concerned, its the best 357 magnum in the world. Its finer than a Colt Python and stronger than a Ruger GP100.
The Korth Combat is hard to beat for sheer precision and build quality, but there's something I just like better about the Manurhin. There's something I love about service handguns that were built so well that they can be considered among the finest and most accurate handguns ever produced. In this context, the MR73 is only rivaled by the Sig P210, in my opinion. That's great company and that's how good it is.
The Korth Combat is hard to beat for sheer precision and build quality, but there's something I just like better about the Manurhin. There's something I love about service handguns that were built so well that they can be considered among the finest and most accurate handguns ever produced. In this context, the MR73 is only rivaled by the Sig P210, in my opinion. That's great company and that's how good it is.
BinaryBoris
Inactive
Sorry it's taken me a while to get these pics up. Here is the first of two MR73's I got from AIM's short supply. The second one is still waiting to be picked up from my FFL.
I am thinking about leaving this first one "As Is" but I am considering having the second one re-blued.
I am thinking about leaving this first one "As Is" but I am considering having the second one re-blued.
BinaryBoris
Inactive
Model12Win
Moderator
Nice! How is timing/lock up? And bore condition and trigger?
BinaryBoris
Inactive
Thank you
Well, I'm mostly a semi-auto guy, but even given my limited revolver experience I can say this handgun is solid, tight, and feels perfectly timed. Out of 50 rounds of .357 mag and 50 rounds of .38 spec, I did have two cases where the primers were struck but got no bang (both .38 spec) using S&B.
Again, I'm pretty new to revolvers so I'm working on a good grip that will give me the same kind of strong purchase on the weapon that I can get on semi autos (not used to the damn angle of that grip!) but the first 100 rounds of 38/357 netted some decent accuracy. Definitely some room for improvement though. I've got a nice stack of 38/357 as well as all the reloading stuff, so I'll have plenty of food for the Manurhin!
I did notice that the .38 rounds grouped about 2-3 inches above POA while the .357 was pretty much right on. Not sure why, but once I started holding under by 3" or so w/ 38 rounds it got me back on target.
I'm working up a table-top review and shooting video for YouTube now, but it will probably take a few weeks to actually get it done. I have a bit of a startup channel on YouTube (NotAGunGuy).
Anyway, here are the initial results (5.5" target).
.38 Special at 10 yards:
.357 Magnum at 15 yards:
Well, I'm mostly a semi-auto guy, but even given my limited revolver experience I can say this handgun is solid, tight, and feels perfectly timed. Out of 50 rounds of .357 mag and 50 rounds of .38 spec, I did have two cases where the primers were struck but got no bang (both .38 spec) using S&B.
Again, I'm pretty new to revolvers so I'm working on a good grip that will give me the same kind of strong purchase on the weapon that I can get on semi autos (not used to the damn angle of that grip!) but the first 100 rounds of 38/357 netted some decent accuracy. Definitely some room for improvement though. I've got a nice stack of 38/357 as well as all the reloading stuff, so I'll have plenty of food for the Manurhin!
I did notice that the .38 rounds grouped about 2-3 inches above POA while the .357 was pretty much right on. Not sure why, but once I started holding under by 3" or so w/ 38 rounds it got me back on target.
I'm working up a table-top review and shooting video for YouTube now, but it will probably take a few weeks to actually get it done. I have a bit of a startup channel on YouTube (NotAGunGuy).
Anyway, here are the initial results (5.5" target).
.38 Special at 10 yards:
.357 Magnum at 15 yards:
Last edited:
lee n. field
New member
Thanks for the pics.
Lots of wear on the grip and finish, but the pawls on the ejector star look really clean.
The wandering drag line is kind of interesting.
Grips listed as available, for cheap: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1048720.htm.
Lots of wear on the grip and finish, but the pawls on the ejector star look really clean.
The wandering drag line is kind of interesting.
Grips listed as available, for cheap: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1048720.htm.
Last edited:
BinaryBoris
Inactive
Absolutely. Yes I found that drag line to be kind of neat too. It definitely shoots a lot "newer" than it looks. The best way to describe it is that it feels like it just got done going through a break-in period of a few hundred rounds - even though it looks like it has fired several thousand (and probably has).
I ordered those grips from Numrich a couple weeks ago but hadn't realized they are for the Police F1, so they don't quite match up (need to do some minor drilling on the inside as well). I may pop a pair on the second MR73 when I bring it home, but the search will continue for MR73 grips.
I ordered those grips from Numrich a couple weeks ago but hadn't realized they are for the Police F1, so they don't quite match up (need to do some minor drilling on the inside as well). I may pop a pair on the second MR73 when I bring it home, but the search will continue for MR73 grips.