Dry lubricant is godly!

I've used Eezox for several years and love it. In addition to guns, I use it on Padlocks that are out in the weather all the time, outdoor hinges, lawnmower deck bearings. Anything out in the weather that needs rust protection and lubrication.
 
Sheesh! This thread is beginning to sound like a long-winded infomercial for Eezox :rolleyes:

If you're having FTF and failure to eject issues using FMJ in any 1911, some voodoo snake oil's not going to fix the real problem
 
I have used liquid wrench dry lube with PTFE (Teflon) for some time now on the internals of my magazines. The carrier liquid does clean well too. Once dry no other lubrication is needed for quite a while. I don't think the brand name makes that much difference. You do have to shake the can up pretty good before using or you only squirt out the carrier and not the Teflon.
 
Dry lubes are nothing new. Some years ago, I worked with a retired armorer that used Moly dry lube on semi-auto slides. The moly/graphite was dark and even when dry would get on your hands,clothes and was almost impossible to get out. But it did the job well.

Today there are many manufacturer's of dry lubes with PTFE.
Remington makes the one I've been using for some years now with good results.
 
I'm with notacop, have that gun & mags looked at. I would expect any of my autos to function flawlessly for several hundred rounds with unlubed mags or lubed by dunking into used motor oil.
 
Sheesh! This thread is beginning to sound like a long-winded infomercial for Eezox
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Read these:
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
...and then tell me what you think.
As soon as I find something better, I will switch. I have no loyalty at all, and I test whatever is available.

Recently I have tried Gibbs Brand, CorrosionX and Weapon Shield. They are okay, but as of today, I am still using Eezox, because it is better.
 
I've been thinking about changing out to a dry lube from S&W's synthetic lube. I've been researching Eezox and others. I've convinced myself to go with Eezox when I run out of what I'm using. It's not easy to change when S&W's stuff is working, but this Eezox stuff has convinced me that it will be worth it!
 
For you EEZOX users, have you used it on the trigger group, and if so how has it performed? - is it durable, and any better or worse than wet lubes?
 
+1 to what notacop said.

I like dry lubes for guns stored a long time between shootings. AR-15s will run when wet, but jam up when dry. If you don't shoot it for 6 months, it will be dry. The other option is use dry lube and your AR-15s and 6 months later when you need it, it will run.
 
Okay everybody, slow down for just a moment. On August 26, BGutzman mentioned Militec-1. I have no ties to this product but it is worth your consideration if your seriouse about your machine. I just turned a Mossberg 500 into a silent mouse with this stuff...mind you, I did not JUST discover this, I have been using it for about 40 years. My issue on the shotguns forum is Mossberg at Idle...damn thing makes too much noise when cycled...not anymore. I have use this in my Corvettes as an oil additive which turned the gas pedal into a rheostat. In other words, a gas engine that responded like an electric motor and rewarded me with many thousands of miles beyond what others were lasting for that vintage...1979. Check out the Militec website. Cant offer it here as I dont know it but from experience, it has served me well over many years in all of my guns, cars, computerized routers, pantographs, anything that slides and could use a quality lube. In my Mossberg for example, I put in a few drops here there and everywhere metal was against metal...let it sit for a few days, wiped it down, cycled it 20-30 times with a lint free cloth and it is ready for another 10 years if kept in a cabinet or anywhere somewhat dust free. If you have a weapon you like, you owe it to yourself to at least take a look at their site. This stuff is a weapons grade synthetic based metal conditioner. You can forget all that dry lube stuff and WD40 in my opinion. BGutzman knows exactly what I~m talking about.
Happy shooting!
 
Sounds like a product called "dry slide" has a small steel needle aplicator, used to use this on motorcycle cables and the old speedometer cables when they dryed out, the speedo would bump instead of a smooth sweep. Dry slide fixed that. Was a graphite lube suspended in a silicone fluid.
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Dri Slide works in the manner described, but it's Molybdenum Disulphide not graphite. Works great for speedo cables, but it's black as the ace of spades and would be really messy if used in guns. Once it stains clothing there's no getting it out. There are other dry lubes out there that work just as well and are a lot easier to use.

If you are interested in dry lubes, go to your local bicycle shop. Mountain bikes have "how to lube without attracting dirt" issues that make guns seem a cinch by comparison and the bike guys have lots of solutions.
 
Is there any need to remove the liquid/semiliquid lubricant from the system before applying dry lubricant? Or can you just directly add dry lube in there?

I've got a can of the Remington stuff, and I'm considering switching over (even though none of mine really need it) - just trying to figure out if I need to go through and thoroughly clean off any remaining clp before I do so...
 
natman, I am a bicycle guy and I would not suggest all the bicycle solutions to gun people. In fact I can not think of any bicycle solution I would recommend to gun people. The bicycle has large tolerances, the gun does not. The bicycle is all manual, the guns I am thinking about are not.

Rattlehead, you would probably be best to start with a clean and dry gun and then add dry lube. As you shoot, if you need to (long shooting session), then add clp over the dry lube. When it is time to clean, start again with a dry clean gun and dry lube.
 
natman, I am a bicycle guy and I would not suggest all the bicycle solutions to gun people. In fact I can not think of any bicycle solution I would recommend to gun people. The bicycle has large tolerances, the gun does not. The bicycle is all manual, the guns I am thinking about are not.

Rattlehead, you would probably be best to start with a clean and dry gun and then add dry lube. As you shoot, if you need to (long shooting session), then add clp over the dry lube. When it is time to clean, start again with a dry clean gun and dry lube.
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Well maybe, but you're going to have to be more specific. The "large tolerances vs small tolerances" argument is not convincing, nor is the "bicycles are manual" argument, whatever the heck it means. It's not like bicycle dry lubes make huge clumps or something.

What dry lubes would you recommend for guns and why?

I agree that the gun should be cleaned before applying dry lube, but disagree with "put clp on top of it". That defeats the entire point of dry lube, ie, that it's DRY.
 
.45 Jams

My two cents worth: If your extractor/ejector is lined up with the bolt face and your mag spring has good tension and the mouth is not bent check your firing position in relation to the grip and angle between wrist arm and grip, straight back works best IMO (and don't use dirty cased ammo gunked up with lube grease like that used in reloading, (I have seen law enforcement having problems with their feeding in a 1911 .45 semi auto Colt Commader and the ammo was corroded in place, evidence of how long this paticular officer had cleaned his handgun, and it was his duty carry!!!!).....otherwise, get to a competent armorer gunsmith that knows .45's well.

A misaligned extractor will wear excessively also and might require replacing and not just realignment, your gunsmith will tell you and you can see it fairly easily with a good eye. Bent ejected cases and stacked cases are common indicators of misalignment with the .45 in my limited experience. T/O weapon for more years than I care to mention.
 
I love this. The guy's gun is having problems with feeding. He fixes the problems and tells us how he did it. (by lubing his mags). Then other guys jump in and tell him that the problems must have been caused by something else and that his gun, which now works flawlessly, needs to go to the gunsmith because sticky magazines can't have been the cause even though that's what the original poster fixed.

Yes, it is possible for magazines to not function properly if they are dry and sticky. Cleaning and lubing them fixes that, just like it did for the OP. :rolleyes:
 
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