I've posted in places over the years bout making the cap&baller revolvers dry fire safe. It's not hard to do using several simple methods to make it right.
When it's right the hammer hits the caps fine but when there's no caps the hammer never touches the nipples cone.
When the hammer face is stoned ect ect I always reharden the hammer just for doing a good gunsmthing job since the hammer does hit the copper caps.
I reharden the hammer anytime any surfaces are stoned or changed that may remove the thin case of hard carbon that's put on when the case hardening is done.
Anywhooooo.......I have a presentation grade Italian Colt engraved and all. It's the finest quality that comes out of Italy in regards to cap&ballers.
FROM THE FACTORY.....it's dry fire safe,chambers the same diameter as the grooves in the barrel,rear sight lowered, notch in the sight enlarged some, shoots real well and does it consistantly with normal powder charges, has a reallt nice crisp trigger break like snapping a glass rod.
It's a gun that's beautifully masterfully engraved and has all the highest quality there could be in fit finish and function.
It gives one the example of what the gun makers see as the finest with the finest attributes. That includes "dry fire safe" attribute to the action.
That's what I infer from studying the gun. Just my opinion.
Man, I'll tellya. That gun is a real pleasure to shoot.
It's set up the way I like to set up a cap&baller when doing the "full tune" on one.
Tuning the action to me has for years meant sizing the chambers to the grooves of the barrel and dry fire safe and multiple other attributes. Like everything and anything the gun needs to be "proper".
That said.....all my cap&ballers aren't all "extra tuned". Only the ones I shoot the most are.
That said.....I thunk anyone can deduce that "dry fire safe" isn't imperative. Some people like the hammer to have a really good wack to the caps just in case the gun gets some weed or sand debris or ice and snow or rust or whatever in the action.