Dry firing a percussion pistol
- Thread starter DennisCA
- Start date
As is my understanding, it can mushroom the nipple(s). Don't know offhand how many dry fires it would take, hope to never find out. I wouldn't think once or twice, accidentally or otherwise, would hurt it too bad. Of course being wrong isn't something that is exactly new to my body of experience.
Some folks put a short length of rubber tubing over said nipple(s) to cushion the blow from the hammer.
Some folks put a short length of rubber tubing over said nipple(s) to cushion the blow from the hammer.
Even one accidental dry fire event
Can mushroom a nipple.
It is not likely that the nipple will be rendered unusable with the first instance.
But I bet after ten it would need to be replaced.
Minor damage to a nipple can be fixed with a file. Problem is, the mushrooming reduces the height of the nipple and even smoothing it up with a file won't fix that. Once the height of the nipple is so low that the hammer does not strike the cap, the nipple is done for.
In addition, smoothing it with a file can leave the nipple larger in diameter and now, the number ten caps the shooter has grown so fond of, don't fit on the nipples any more.
Can mushroom a nipple.
It is not likely that the nipple will be rendered unusable with the first instance.
But I bet after ten it would need to be replaced.
Minor damage to a nipple can be fixed with a file. Problem is, the mushrooming reduces the height of the nipple and even smoothing it up with a file won't fix that. Once the height of the nipple is so low that the hammer does not strike the cap, the nipple is done for.
In addition, smoothing it with a file can leave the nipple larger in diameter and now, the number ten caps the shooter has grown so fond of, don't fit on the nipples any more.
DoubleDeuce 1
New member
I keep a coned washer over mine for pratice. Revolvers are a different story.
shooterbob
New member
If the caps when "hot" protect the nipple, couldn't you leave them on after firing for dry fire?
If the goal is to practice by dry firing, what about removing the nipples?
I've never done it, just tossing it out there for consideration.
I read somewhere that this guy was claiming that if the nipple to hammer was adjusted or modified just right, the hammer never actually struck the nipple if there were no cap. It was interesting and if it's true, it's the only time I've read it.
Anyway, dry fire percussion revolver? not me, so far.
Good or bad? I don't know that either, but I don't want to find out without more info.
I've never done it, just tossing it out there for consideration.
I read somewhere that this guy was claiming that if the nipple to hammer was adjusted or modified just right, the hammer never actually struck the nipple if there were no cap. It was interesting and if it's true, it's the only time I've read it.
Anyway, dry fire percussion revolver? not me, so far.
Good or bad? I don't know that either, but I don't want to find out without more info.
Protecting and Printing.
I make my protectors out of plastic, poly tubing. Typically the type of tubing used on patient oxygen breathing devices. I cut lengths of about 1/4" long. These are harder than rubber and very disposable. The tubing I use, is green in color and mount them on all my M/L to protect and indicate that it has been cleaned and unloaded. ....
Now, printing the hammer strike on a cap, I deactivate and cap by removing the priming agent. I dry fire and verify the hammer face & nipple are making good contact. Very easy to deactivate primer. ....
Be Safe !!!
I make my protectors out of plastic, poly tubing. Typically the type of tubing used on patient oxygen breathing devices. I cut lengths of about 1/4" long. These are harder than rubber and very disposable. The tubing I use, is green in color and mount them on all my M/L to protect and indicate that it has been cleaned and unloaded. ....
Now, printing the hammer strike on a cap, I deactivate and cap by removing the priming agent. I dry fire and verify the hammer face & nipple are making good contact. Very easy to deactivate primer. ....
Be Safe !!!
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maillemaker
New member
It will peen the nipple and dent the hammer.
And it doesn't take much. You can see an indentation in the hammer after one dry fire.
When I'm testing trigger pulls I roll up a piece of leather and hold it in between the hammer and the nipple to catch and cushion the hammer.
Steve
And it doesn't take much. You can see an indentation in the hammer after one dry fire.
When I'm testing trigger pulls I roll up a piece of leather and hold it in between the hammer and the nipple to catch and cushion the hammer.
Steve
I've posted in places over the years bout making the cap&baller revolvers dry fire safe. It's not hard to do using several simple methods to make it right.
When it's right the hammer hits the caps fine but when there's no caps the hammer never touches the nipples cone.
When the hammer face is stoned ect ect I always reharden the hammer just for doing a good gunsmthing job since the hammer does hit the copper caps.
I reharden the hammer anytime any surfaces are stoned or changed that may remove the thin case of hard carbon that's put on when the case hardening is done.
Anywhooooo.......I have a presentation grade Italian Colt engraved and all. It's the finest quality that comes out of Italy in regards to cap&ballers.
FROM THE FACTORY.....it's dry fire safe,chambers the same diameter as the grooves in the barrel,rear sight lowered, notch in the sight enlarged some, shoots real well and does it consistantly with normal powder charges, has a reallt nice crisp trigger break like snapping a glass rod.
It's a gun that's beautifully masterfully engraved and has all the highest quality there could be in fit finish and function.
It gives one the example of what the gun makers see as the finest with the finest attributes. That includes "dry fire safe" attribute to the action.
That's what I infer from studying the gun. Just my opinion.
Man, I'll tellya. That gun is a real pleasure to shoot.It's set up the way I like to set up a cap&baller when doing the "full tune" on one.
Tuning the action to me has for years meant sizing the chambers to the grooves of the barrel and dry fire safe and multiple other attributes. Like everything and anything the gun needs to be "proper".
That said.....all my cap&ballers aren't all "extra tuned". Only the ones I shoot the most are.
That said.....I thunk anyone can deduce that "dry fire safe" isn't imperative. Some people like the hammer to have a really good wack to the caps just in case the gun gets some weed or sand debris or ice and snow or rust or whatever in the action.
When it's right the hammer hits the caps fine but when there's no caps the hammer never touches the nipples cone.
When the hammer face is stoned ect ect I always reharden the hammer just for doing a good gunsmthing job since the hammer does hit the copper caps.
I reharden the hammer anytime any surfaces are stoned or changed that may remove the thin case of hard carbon that's put on when the case hardening is done.
Anywhooooo.......I have a presentation grade Italian Colt engraved and all. It's the finest quality that comes out of Italy in regards to cap&ballers.
FROM THE FACTORY.....it's dry fire safe,chambers the same diameter as the grooves in the barrel,rear sight lowered, notch in the sight enlarged some, shoots real well and does it consistantly with normal powder charges, has a reallt nice crisp trigger break like snapping a glass rod.
It's a gun that's beautifully masterfully engraved and has all the highest quality there could be in fit finish and function.
It gives one the example of what the gun makers see as the finest with the finest attributes. That includes "dry fire safe" attribute to the action.
That's what I infer from studying the gun. Just my opinion.
Man, I'll tellya. That gun is a real pleasure to shoot.
It's set up the way I like to set up a cap&baller when doing the "full tune" on one.Tuning the action to me has for years meant sizing the chambers to the grooves of the barrel and dry fire safe and multiple other attributes. Like everything and anything the gun needs to be "proper".
That said.....all my cap&ballers aren't all "extra tuned". Only the ones I shoot the most are.
That said.....I thunk anyone can deduce that "dry fire safe" isn't imperative. Some people like the hammer to have a really good wack to the caps just in case the gun gets some weed or sand debris or ice and snow or rust or whatever in the action.
freedom475
New member
I seems the internet is FULL of experts..that have never done much. Why do guys feel that they have to answer every question even if they only know the answer from stuff they read on the internet?!!
When I was a very young kid I aquired Navy Arms 1860 that had a damaged barrel...so it became a "wall-hanger" I used it for quickdraw and spinning practice. It was my favorite toy
I dry fired this thing 10's of 1000s of times.
The hammer obviously showed a circle indentation. This stopped once the hammer came rest on the frame... but the nipples never mushroomed.
I later (as an adult) fixed the old revolver and it works just fine to this very day
Don't worry much about a little dry fire...even if it dents the hammer, it will still fire the caps just fine.
When I was a very young kid I aquired Navy Arms 1860 that had a damaged barrel...so it became a "wall-hanger" I used it for quickdraw and spinning practice. It was my favorite toy
I dry fired this thing 10's of 1000s of times.
The hammer obviously showed a circle indentation. This stopped once the hammer came rest on the frame... but the nipples never mushroomed.
I later (as an adult) fixed the old revolver and it works just fine to this very day
Don't worry much about a little dry fire...even if it dents the hammer, it will still fire the caps just fine.
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maillemaker
New member
Well, I guess a lot of us "internet experts" upon noticing the damage after doing it one time didn't proceed to do it 1000 more times to convince ourselves it was a stupid idea.
"Hey, I just ****ed up my gun! I know, I'll keep ****ing it up and see how much it can take before it's completely ****ed!"
Steve
Chestnut Forge
New member
PetahW
I was just thinking that, or remove the nipples. I take them out every time I clean my revolvers anyway. I go through a lot of caps working on trigger pull and my stance. New gun and I want to shoot some woods-walks with it this summer.
I was just thinking that, or remove the nipples. I take them out every time I clean my revolvers anyway. I go through a lot of caps working on trigger pull and my stance. New gun and I want to shoot some woods-walks with it this summer.
Not a revolver but....
Yesterday I went to the Flea Market (West End Market) in Webster, FL. Only one vendor had any fire arms and for the most part they were overpriced and they were beat.
One particularly sad example was a single shot percussion pistol from Spain. It appeared to be original. It was dated 1864 and marked in Spanish. It appeared to be about 75 caliber, with a barrel about 6 to 7 inches in length. It was tastefully embellished with engraving and inlaid with a metal that was different in appearance from the iron of the barrel. It is what started out as a very nice pistol.
It is like no contemporary replica I have ever seen and I have seen a lot of them. It had a fitting over the nipple which rotated allowing the fitting to be interposed over the nipple to act as a safety.
The sad part about this pistol was the poor condition. Bore caked with years of corrosion. Stock cracked and then unceremoniously nailed back together. But the worst part was the nipple which had been hammered so badly as to be unrecognizable.
I know we are talking revolvers and this pistol was a single shot pistol. I have no clue about how long or how many hammer falls it took to get the nipple to its diminished state.
I'm just saying.
Yesterday I went to the Flea Market (West End Market) in Webster, FL. Only one vendor had any fire arms and for the most part they were overpriced and they were beat.
One particularly sad example was a single shot percussion pistol from Spain. It appeared to be original. It was dated 1864 and marked in Spanish. It appeared to be about 75 caliber, with a barrel about 6 to 7 inches in length. It was tastefully embellished with engraving and inlaid with a metal that was different in appearance from the iron of the barrel. It is what started out as a very nice pistol.
It is like no contemporary replica I have ever seen and I have seen a lot of them. It had a fitting over the nipple which rotated allowing the fitting to be interposed over the nipple to act as a safety.
The sad part about this pistol was the poor condition. Bore caked with years of corrosion. Stock cracked and then unceremoniously nailed back together. But the worst part was the nipple which had been hammered so badly as to be unrecognizable.
I know we are talking revolvers and this pistol was a single shot pistol. I have no clue about how long or how many hammer falls it took to get the nipple to its diminished state.
I'm just saying.
Rifleman1776
New member
Save old nipples and use those for dry firing. Replace when going for targets or meat.