Dry firing a 22

You know- I guess I'm an "ACTUAL GUNSMITH-WITH YEARS OF EXPERIENCE."
About 45 years. Is that enough? :eek:
My remark about not using drywall anchors has nothing to do with cushioning the breech face. It has to do with not cushioning the FIRING PIN. Firing pins break with some regularity. Dry firing with a wall anchor or other such crap does nothing to slow the firing pin, and it slams to a stop in it's channel-causing the metal to work-harden, become brittle and break. The firing pin simply pierces the soft plastic, and it doesn't slow down by any appreciable amount.
Any idiot can see chamber peening and know that it isn't good.
Advice from someone with knowledge of actual gunsmithing and a little knowledge of metallurgy will prevent your firing pin from breaking. Use snap caps or ( rotated) fired cases, not some crap that a hack tells you about. :rolleyes:

BTW- I experimented with wall anchors 40 years ago.
 
I guess I've used better wall anchors than you. I haven't seen one "pierced", only dented similar to the red snap caps I have also used.
 
You couldn't tell if it's pierced. The plastic is basically self-healing.
A snap cap STOPS the firing pin slowly but effectively. Plastic and such lets the firing pin travel unimpeded until it either: hits the edge of the chamber, or "bottoms out" in the firing pin channel. It does not have the resistance of a brass shell casing.
 
Not all semi-automatic rifles or handguns have a hold open feature
Click to expand...
That's probably the best bet, the ones that do not reset the action to even allow a dry fire after the last round.
A couple of my autoloaders are supposed to do that, but only when they're in the mood.
Can't actually rely on it, though.
 
Seems like some folks will go to any extreme to try and prove a feeble point. I recommend using the dry wall anchors to those who WANT to. It's not a mandatory proposition, so it's interesting to read that someone would get their "Depends" soiled over the suggestion.

Common sense should always prevail when firearms are involved. Yes, repeated smacks from the firing pin will indeed wear it's way through the rim of the plastic wall anchor, unless the wall anchor is rotated slightly for the next hit. I apologize, I guess I expected ALL of the more astute visitors here, would understand that assumption.

I've never seen a chamber mouth ding come about as the result of using a "precautionary", cheap item, such as the recommended plastic wall anchor, or do what is highly recommended by the "Hacks 'R Us", No. 1 rated school of gunsmithery, "remove the firing pin from your Ruger Mark pistol bolt, and dry fire away". Use what ever you like to prevent a chamber mouth ding that's not easily repaired, maybe a "gummy bear" would work just as well also. ;)
 
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I generally don't post unless I know what I'm talking about.
When someone states that I'm full of s--t, I'll most certainly respond.
Read what I said again, then read it again after that. I said nothing about chamber peening. I was talking about firing pin breakage- just in case your reading comprehension is as bad as it appears.
An apology is in order.
 
Seems after searching forum after forum after forum. Gun forums, shooting forums, hunting forums, and gunsmithing forums this forum, and one particular member is the only reference I can find that says drywall anchors are not sufficient for dry firing.
Good to know that the one person on earth that knows this in on TFL.:D
 
Concerning the just above post. You sir, are absolutely correct. The recommendations for using a "plastic dry-wall anchor" as a cheap snap-cap to prevent chamber mouth dings, and firing pin tip breakage, are a proven method used by many firearms experts with "REAL" world credentials involved with the use of .22 rimfire guns.

Geeez! If somebody doesn't want to use dry-wall anchors for the purpose suggested, there's no need to strangle your poodle! :eek:

I've gone back and read all the responses, and I haven't read anything from anyone stating anyone here is full of "excrement". Opinions differ, get over it. :p An "apology"? I wouldn't camp out by the phone if I were you. :D
 
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Here's an interesting excerpt from another .22 forum web-site. It's not a condemnation of any proposed process, just some experience from a person trying a suggested method.

"An empty shell case will deform and stick in the chamber. I have done it on bad advice from another forum.

Regards, Jim"

So all are aware, the rim of the .22 Long Rifle cartridge case is the thinnest area involved with that cartridge. It needs to be, because that's where the primer mix is and the firing pin tip needs to "crush" the rim to ignite the primer mix so that the cartridge makes noise.
Hopefully, the tip of the firing pin hasn't walked off the job due to operator error.
 
You guys do whatever you want.
All I'm trying to do is prevent damage to your guns.
If you can't understand my reasoning, keep on doing what you are doing. They are your guns-not mine.
It's interesting how some people simply like to attack people who are trying to help. I'm not some kid who has no experience.
 
One shooter I knew years ago showed me how to fold a piece of rubber-from an old bicycle inner tube-to make a dry firing device.
 
Quote: "You guys do whatever you want."

Gee..........thanks for your permission. :rolleyes: You really think you're being "ATTACKED" because some disagree with your position on dry firing? You may have a lot of experience ( :confused: ), but you sure have a lot of growing up to do.
 
Let me start by saying that I am not a gunsmith, and often not very wise. I guess that I could be considered fairly lucky sometimes.
My beloved old Colt Woodsman, (from 1938 I believe) has been dry fired with no protection probably eleventy bazillion times, and the chamber mouth looks as sweet and virginal as Miley Cyrus when she was nine.
It also has an excellent trigger, -- maybe a connection?:rolleyes::rolleyes:
I'll admit to having been a pathological dry firer throughout my life, and generally consider it to be harmless on most center-fire guns. As I said, I'm fairly lucky.
Maybe we should start a registry of guns which are documented safe for this practice - or not. :p I'm of the opinion that dry fire is as valuable to good marksmanship as live fire. But I'll only do it with my own guns. And if I find any of my rimfires with damage, I'll quit it, at least with those. jd
 
Ruger 10/22 instruction manual page 19:
8. With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, push the safety to the “off”
position and pull the trigger to decock it. The rifle can be “dry fired” for
practice as long as it is empty and pointed in a safe direction.

Some you can and some you can't. I have some of each in .22 pistols, revolvers and rifles. Since it's your rifle I agree with do whatever trips your trigger.

Ron
 
The entire conversation is somewhat amusing. Snap caps are not expensive. Why try to substitute for snap caps? Even if there a minimal risk I certainly won't take it with my guns.

DeShivs comments certainly make sense to me.
 
When I was 12 in 1963 my father pulled out his Iver Johnson Model X 22 bolt action single shot rifle he got at a pawn shop when he was 12.

It would not shoot. Dry firing had peened back the firing pin from running into the barrel. I blame irresponsible younger siblings.

He removed the firing pin and pounded on it until it had a point again.

That rifle worked fine as long we had it until 1970 when one of my irresponsible younger siblings lost it. I have since bought another Model X and I can see the firing pin design error.

MacFarland says in a book that if you want to start a fight with gunsmiths, bring up firing pin shape. I don't think it makes much difference until you are running 85 kpsi in 6mmBR with CCI 450 primers and you don't want piercings.
 
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