Dry fire damage?

I do something like Pahoo, but use card stock.
When looking for nipples for a 1969 built Uberti I found that ones listed for Euroaarms were the correct length (shorter)
M6 x .75 x .500 Long
Fits Euroarms Revolver
(6 Per Package)
 
Check Cabelas from time to time you can place an order there, may take two weeks to get the product but that worked for me to get 3 boxes.
 
Deltadart said:
Check Cabelas from time to time you can place an order there, may take two weeks to get the product but that worked for me to get 3 boxes.
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I just checked Cabelas, unless I’m blind I cannot see percussion caps anywhere on their website.
 
Erno86 said:
If the hammer has the same kind of lousy steel as my Ruger Old Army...I would suggest not dry firing the pistol at all (unless you use percussion caps) --- If you do...wear eye protection --- Since I've broken two of my Old Army hammers while dry firing them, (with the thumb cocking piece of the hammer cracks and flies off directly at the shooter with speed).

That's why I think Ruger gave up on manufacturing the Ruger Old Army, even though the instruction book said it was okay to dry fire the pistol.
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I dunno, if that was the case, I'm thinkin' Ole Bill was a smart enough businessman that he woulda just told the boys in the plant to use some better steel. That way, the company could keep on making and selling the gun ;-)
 
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If the steel is too soft in the Black Powder Blackhawk hammer, it would not be that big of trick for a gunsmith to heat treat it to increase hardness to the desired level.
 
1858 Remingtons work better with #10 caps. Remington caps to be exact. In the 70s I shot pistol in the national matches at Friendship and just about all anyone used were #11 caps. We had to squeeze them egg shaped so they'd stay on better. Now, most guys have learned # 10 caps stay on better. There are pistols where the #11 cap works better, but far fewer of them. Any ways, in all my years of shooting 1858s, I've never seen hammers look like those in this thread - learn something new every day. When I want to dry fire one I just take the nipples out or remove the cylinder. I've never hurt a hammer by letting the frame stop it. If you feel a new hammer is necessary, EMF carries parts for the Pietta revolvers. Not sure about Ubertis, but a quick internet search should solve any problems.
 
I use to file my hammers so they cannot touch the nipples but just the caps. After that I use to harden it by the old heat and oil method. As simple as it sounds.
 
Centurion said:
I use to file my hammers so they cannot touch the nipples but just the caps. After that I use to harden it by the old heat and oil method. As simple as it sounds.
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That makes for a pretty close tolerance which doesn't allow for much variation in the cap's metal thickness among different brands-- or how far down onto the nipple they fit due either to the amount of primer fill or how far/tight you push the cap down onto the nipple.

What's your experience been with any misfires?
 
Never a misfire neither with any brand of primers nor my homemade ones. The tolerance is almost nothing, just enough to avoid the hammering of the nipples.
 
A gun guru and Colt aficionado showed me his solution to firing Colt center fire revolvers with a frame mounted firing pin. Cut a piece of rubber-an old bicycle inner tube-fold it over, perhaps with a little glue. Cushions the impact of the hammer nicely. Seems to me it work nicely on nipples.
 
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