Dropped my S&W 629 Classic on the concrete!

Wyoredman

New member
What a bone head! Loading my truck the other night for a wood cutting trip to the cabin when I failed to check the holster strap on my 629. I had the cartridge belt and holster kind off "wraped up" and was closing the overhead door when the pistol fell out onto the floor. It landed on the cylinder, kind of flat, on the right side.

The fall scratched up a small area on the cylinder steel and the impact popped the right side grip lose. After I got the grip snapped back together and examined the gun for marks, I dry-fired it a dozen times. All seems to be OK.

Is there something I should check out before I try and shoot some live ammo? I am a bit nervous, but things look fine. It did hit pretty hard!
 
I sympathize, the first mark on my PX4 (my first gun) was due to me dropping it on concrete. Chipped a magazine floor plate and dinged the finish. With a 629 it must be much worse, such beautiful guns.

Ah, well, a well-loved gun won't be pristine in the end anyway. :)

If the timing and lockup seem solid I'd go ahead and try it starting with some weaker loads. Smith makes a pretty tough gun.
 
Yeah, LockedBreach, Made me a bit mad at myself, but at least It has a "love-mark' now!:D Kind of a relief, like the first scratch in a new car!

Anyhow, I guess I will shoot some .44 spl out of it tonight and make sure everthing is good to go!

Thanks.
 
If the cylinder was closed when you dropped it, you're unlikely to have damaged it beyond the cosmetic. As long as it still passes Jim March's revolver checkout (stickied at the top of the revolver forum), it should still be fine to shoot with anything you'd have shot it with before.
 
I hate that. I once bought a Marlin 357 trapper, almost new in the box. I just got it home, hadn't even shot it yet. I set the box on the workbench, took it out of the box, reached to get something, and knocked it off the bench. It hit the edge of the workbench and put a big ding in the barrel.
 
Ouch, that hurts. I would be highly upset if I dropped my 629 Classic DX. I once dropped a rifle out of my trunk on the pavement but fortunately it was my Hi-Point. :)

I would be sure and take a look at the rear sight to make sure it's not dinged up and still moves freely. When I got my first revolver (a very nice 686-4) it had been dropped on its rear sight, which was dinged, and I had to order the kit to replace it. Not a big deal but it's a relatively fragile part on the revolver.
 
With a 629 it must be much worse, such beautiful guns.

Actually you can get out any scratches and even small dings pretty easily, and i'm not just talking about a touch up job, you can get that sucker looking like it was never dropped with some time and a little bit of effort. I have taken some pretty rough shape S&W stainless revolvers and returned the finish to looking brand new, technically stainless isn't a finish but you get the idea. You could go high polish or bring it back to a light brushed finish. If you want a detailed step by step PM me. Like I said it's not hard at all just a little time consuming, you could pop in a movie and be finished by the time it's over
 
My opinion is its probably fine as well...as long as you check the timing, etc...

( stuff happens...)..../ after you quit beating yourself up for it ...it'll probably be ok ....

I dropped a nice set of barrels, off a relatively new Browning Over Under shotgun...in a gravel parking lot ...at my gun club a few yrs ago ...when I wasn't careful taking the forend off the gun.....hit the release lever by mistake ...and they bounced right out there.../ I've since given that gun away - but it reminded me what a dumb --- I was every time I looked at it.

You might be able to polish it out ....
 
Dragline's got it. I found a PPK in stainless for a rock bottom price because of a mean looking scratch. In less than half an hour the scratch was gone! The green pad is a friend to stainless. If used for a satin finish, post polishing isn't required.
 
Dragline, PM sent!

Thanks guys. Hope Dragline can get me headded in the right direction. Weblymkv, thanks for the reminder on the sticky.

I will let you know how this progresses.
 
Dragline's got it. I found a PPK in stainless for a rock bottom price because of a mean looking scratch. In less than half an hour the scratch was gone! The green pad is a friend to stainless. If used for a satin finish, post polishing isn't required.

For a brushed finish I start with the green pad and finish with the less abrasive light gray which gives it more of a satin look. If going for a high polished look I use very fine grit wet-dry before actually polishing. It takes any graininess out of the metal and gives you that flat mirror finish as opposed to just being shiny. I have a post a while ago I can dig up where I go into more detail if anyone wants it.

Here is one of my older posts

The green scotcbrite pad is a little more abrasive than I like to use to get a nice satin type brushed finish. Check out an auto supply store, and if you want a satin typed brushed finish get the light gray 3M Scotchbrite pad, these things are basically synthetic steel wool. You could even pick up the white scotchbrite pad to give it its final brushing on the finish after you used the gray. If you want a flat satin type finish without bead blasting you can use different grits of wet-dry sand paper. If you wana go this route I suggest picking up 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit wet-dry, use the wet-dray sandpaper with a little bit of gun oil. When using either the scotchbrite pads or sandpaper cut out small wood blocks to wrap the pieces of scotchbrite pad or sandpaper around, and I mean small as in maybe a block the size of a zippo lighter and one half that size. This will help you apply even pressure with each stroke giving you a more uniform finish. You want to try to keep long even strokes in the same direction which the wood blocks also help you achieve. It may take alot of trial and error but you will eventually achieve a finish you find desirable with a little experimentation. If the brush marks in the stainless don't look as smooth as you want a very quick, and I mean pretty quick, wipe down with mothers mag polish or flitz might take some of the edge off. Too much polishing though and you will just ruin all the work you did and will have to rebrush the stainless.

If you want a mirror polished finish you could always just polish the heck out of it with mothers mag polish or flitz, but that alone will not give you a flat mirror finish. You want to use wet-dry to take the graininess out of the metal before you use the polishing compound. I suggest starting with 1500, then finishing off with the 2000, or 2500 wet dry. Again, using woodblocks will make the job alot easier and give you more of a uniformed finish throughout the gun. A little dab of gun oil on the wet-dry helps as you go along. You want to periodically test areas by polishing with a polishing compound and checking for graininess so you know when to stop using the wet-dry and when to start polishing. It's time consuming but once finished you will have such a flat even mirror finish that it looks like nickel plating.

The 1500+ wet dry grits are very mildly abrasive. When working by hand you really don't have to worry about taking too much material off, your hand will cramp up before you could even achieve it.
 
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If it fell on the right side (opposite) the way the cylinder opens, make sure the crane didn't get sprung (bent). On a gun like an "N" frame with such a heavy cylinder, just swinging it shut like the "movie" guys can bend the crane.
 
Hence I pack Glocks and J .38s.

I have some real nice guns. Sweet actions, tight lockups, super triggers, excellent wood and steel. I even shoot them some. But on the street I use Glocks and the 'child lock' J frame S&Ws. In the woods I use my Ruger wheelguns.

And now you see why.

Deaf
 
As promised, here are pictures of the damage. Not so bad now that I have had a few days to soak it in.
003.jpg

002.jpg
 
Just wondering..does the bolt pop up into that locking notch ok..in dbl. action also? looks like that notch took a good hit..there is metal peened into side of cut.
 
Hmm, didn't realize the cylinder notch got damaged. Chances are it will be fine but you might want to have S&W take a look at it. Or you could buy a new cylinder for around $100-120.

You could send it to S&W and you might get lucky and they will replace it for free, or there are a number of online stores you could get one from.

Midway is out of stock on the fluted by they have a S&W factory cylinder (Unfluted) for $99.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/18...r-assembly-s-and-w-n-frame-model-629-unfluted
 
At least the gun is a 629 and not a 29! Check the timing and all with it unloaded, polish out the dings, and call it good. That's just my opinion.
 
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