Do any one, any combo, or none of the below... It's up to you.
There are some pretty good videos on bedding, it's not all that hard to get right with the kits & supplies for that very purpose.
Your first time will make a mess, but some thought into drips, smears & squeeze out will minimize that, along with having more than one set of gloves laid out handy (bathroom trips, smoke or drink breaks, answering the phone, etc).
Keep in mind, this is like painting with a VERY permanent paint!
Tape off, coat, grease or otherwise protect EVERYTHING you don't want the epoxy sticking to.
Painters know preparation is 90% of the job...
I HIGHLY recommend a package of single edge razor blades! Straight cut lines on tape, scrape/shave off spots that well up before they completely harden, etc.
Have a large garbage can handy! Nothing like finding the mixing stick or razor blade hardened onto the floor where you missed a small trash can.
Make sure you do this somewhere the drips won't get you divorced!
I believe it's worth the time & effort, but that's up to you...
Maybe because started on $30 rifles in the 70s and not trying it on $500 (or more) rifles now.
Some of us remember the war surplus rifles sold in magazines for cheap, and when Western Auto (Sears, etc.) sold rifles under their store names...
Now, mold release has come a LONG WAY! You don't have the gap created by tape or the issues that used to come with grease, but nearly all mold release will leave a few thousand gap when it's cleaned off the receiver...
For some reason people don't talk about that mold release thickness.
ANY GAP under the receiver (and many bedding materials WILL contract/shrink) and the receiver screws will bow the receiver.
It's mechanical advantage, specifically gear reduction (threads on screws) that produce a great deal of force without much force on the screw driver.
If you don't believe this, simply put your finger between stock action while tightening the screw like normal...
Also, don't mistake bedding, pillars & repeatable torque/tightening.
Bedding is a SUPPORT for (mainly) the recoil lug, then support for the action.
Pillars are a STOP, a dead locked up STOP for the downward movement of the action into the stock (no cracked bedding).
A torque limiter (torque driver) gets that lock up between stock & action back in the same place every time.
Anyone that tries this also mounts their own optics, and CORRECT optics mounting requires an inch pound torque driver. The same torque driver works for both applications.
Just my 40+ years experience, take advantage or don't, it's up to you.