Kreyzhorse
New member
I have never had the need to, but if I had to, I'd at least take a look if there was a problem.
Do you take your revolvers apart?
- Thread starter spanishjames
- Start date
S & W M-29 problem
Thank you RKG....after the "fix" last year it never acted up again. The pistol was returned to the factory five years ago. I had another issue with it and I did open it up---I could never get that spring in the trigger in the right position...what a goofy set-up. Looks like they designed it to baffle us. IMHO these things should be designed to be relatively easy for an average guy to be able to service them. S & W fixed it up and then I started have the problems mention. I never tried to adjust the main spring tension for a lighter trigger, but when it was mis-firing (as mentioned before) I did tighten the strain screw.
Also have a 1974 Ruger Superblackhawk that I've had issues with....
1) The stud that holds the ejector housing pulled off--they now no longer use one opting to screw the holding screw into the barrel--had to send to Ruger
2) Broke a few transfer bars--all broke at the same spot...in a narrow bend that IMHO is just too thin.
3) One frame screw head snapped off--I could not extract the screw and without doing one could not take it apart--had to send to Ruger
I shoot the .44 Mags about 800 times a year with medium loads and with no heavy bullets..seems like none of the pistols I have in that caliber are all that durable.
A real PITA to get them fixed now---because FedEx & UPS want your left arm to ship them...all because employees steal them. Knowledgeable gunsmiths are hard to find ....and the cost is very steep and they don't hurry to make the repair.
Thank you RKG....after the "fix" last year it never acted up again. The pistol was returned to the factory five years ago. I had another issue with it and I did open it up---I could never get that spring in the trigger in the right position...what a goofy set-up. Looks like they designed it to baffle us. IMHO these things should be designed to be relatively easy for an average guy to be able to service them. S & W fixed it up and then I started have the problems mention. I never tried to adjust the main spring tension for a lighter trigger, but when it was mis-firing (as mentioned before) I did tighten the strain screw.
Also have a 1974 Ruger Superblackhawk that I've had issues with....
1) The stud that holds the ejector housing pulled off--they now no longer use one opting to screw the holding screw into the barrel--had to send to Ruger
2) Broke a few transfer bars--all broke at the same spot...in a narrow bend that IMHO is just too thin.
3) One frame screw head snapped off--I could not extract the screw and without doing one could not take it apart--had to send to Ruger
I shoot the .44 Mags about 800 times a year with medium loads and with no heavy bullets..seems like none of the pistols I have in that caliber are all that durable.
A real PITA to get them fixed now---because FedEx & UPS want your left arm to ship them...all because employees steal them. Knowledgeable gunsmiths are hard to find ....and the cost is very steep and they don't hurry to make the repair.
The S&W revolvers I have bought over the years have "come broke", in the sense that they have come with their internals rougher than a cob. The people who never do work on them, or have work done on them are either: Very lucky, or use them as they are while being oblivious to how rough they are, do not care how rough they are. There is a night vs. day difference in a S&W revolver as they come from the factory and one that has been smoothed and lightened by someone who knows what to look for (triggers dragging on the frame, hammers flopping sideways during travel, etc.). In many, the only reason they function as well as they do, is that the springs are overly heavy as to force them to function despite the faults as shipped. Ignorance is bliss.
The strain screw should always be, and have been, tightened all the way in. Some shooters wrongly loosen the strain screw to obtain a lighter double-action pull. But one of the problems with that is, the screw is then likely to become looser via recoil, to the point where misfires occur. Swap-out the mainspring for a lighter one if you must, but the strain screw should always be tight in the frame.
Shotgun693
New member
I've taken apart every S&W I've owned. I do a little polishing if it looks like some is rubbing more than it should or where it shouldn't. I've taken apart a Colt SA to replace broken springs. It's not that tough to take one apart. I did have trouble with a SA but only one time on one gun.
I think given the current situation in the world that knowing how to do a few light repairs is a good skill to have.
I think given the current situation in the world that knowing how to do a few light repairs is a good skill to have.
Mike Irwin
Staff
I just randomly grind on parts with a dremel...
Works great!
Works great!
Voted Yes
I have not bought a "NIB" revolver in years, that does not mean I have not bought a revolver recently.
The most removed part is the cylinder. I, from time to time, remove the cylinder to soak it to remove the crud from the end and the ring that builds up from shooting specials in a magnum chamber.
Rarely I'll pop the side plate to clean and lube the action, really there is no reason to do that very often, in my opinion.
I have not bought a "NIB" revolver in years, that does not mean I have not bought a revolver recently.
The most removed part is the cylinder. I, from time to time, remove the cylinder to soak it to remove the crud from the end and the ring that builds up from shooting specials in a magnum chamber.
Rarely I'll pop the side plate to clean and lube the action, really there is no reason to do that very often, in my opinion.
Yes. With my copy of Kuhnhausen's manual for the revolver in question, plus my NRA and J. B. Wood books and any other references I can find. Plus several sets of gunsmithing screwdrivers. I learned to disassemble an M-14, an M-16, an M-2 .50 caliber, an M1911, an M9, an M-60. What's so difficult about disassembling a revolver-at your own pace, in the quiet of your own home?
George1965
Inactive
If I buy a used gun that is the first thing I do is take it down and clean it and check for wore parts. I guess it is just me but I got to know what my gun looks like on the inside.
robhof
I have and do, but have run into problems; a Dan Wesson Supermag(no sideplate)trigger group comes out from below and requires 3 hands to replace. Brought it to a local gunsmith, who kept it for 2 weeks and ordered me a new hand spring after breaking the one it had, gave it back to me as I had brought it to him, finally talked to the DW smith and he talked me through reassembly, great people!!
I usually get a manuel with blow-up diagram of the gun and check if there are any websites/blogs specific to my gun, before opening now.
I have and do, but have run into problems; a Dan Wesson Supermag(no sideplate)trigger group comes out from below and requires 3 hands to replace. Brought it to a local gunsmith, who kept it for 2 weeks and ordered me a new hand spring after breaking the one it had, gave it back to me as I had brought it to him, finally talked to the DW smith and he talked me through reassembly, great people!!
I usually get a manuel with blow-up diagram of the gun and check if there are any websites/blogs specific to my gun, before opening now.My 3 screw Blackhawk was straight forward and I slow rust blued it. Its was not a problem make a few notes and look at it closely before you start removing parts snap some pics I think a single action is less of a challenge than doubles.
1911's are a piece of cake but there are a few "make sures" and always test ALL the functions for proper function before loading and chambering and firing.
There are some very good how to's on line if you look for them.
Ar-15's aren't rocket science but make sure of the make sures.
I had an acquaintance who did not put his 1911 back together correctly and he shot a hole thru the drywall in his kitchen when he chambered a round. I'll say no more.
1911's are a piece of cake but there are a few "make sures" and always test ALL the functions for proper function before loading and chambering and firing.
There are some very good how to's on line if you look for them.
Ar-15's aren't rocket science but make sure of the make sures.
I had an acquaintance who did not put his 1911 back together correctly and he shot a hole thru the drywall in his kitchen when he chambered a round. I'll say no more.
orionengnr
New member
After buying Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job" DVD several years ago (and watching it several times) I have taken apart a couple S&W K and N-frames.
I bought the rebound slide spring tool, but really could have gotten along without it. But I'm kind of a tool junkie
I don't make it a habit, and I still have not tried his stoning techniques, but one day I will...just have to figure out which revolver will be the guinea pig.
I bought the rebound slide spring tool, but really could have gotten along without it. But I'm kind of a tool junkie
I don't make it a habit, and I still have not tried his stoning techniques, but one day I will...just have to figure out which revolver will be the guinea pig.
RKG
First off I am a new guy here and just recently found this forum and what appears to be a lot of interest in revolver shooting. I hope to be able to share a bit and learn more.
I must say you are one person who has a thorough technical grasp of S &W lockworks and what should and should not be done to these revolvers. I have worked on S&W’s for pin and plate shooters and the BE crowd on and off for close to 25 years and I honestly don’t think I can explain things quite as nicely and clearly as you do. If your work is half as good as your instructions you must be one hell of a mechanic. Okay I guess I have blown enough smoke up your you know what so maybe I can comment on this thread.
I have worked on everything from service revolvers that had little if any maintenance and literally rusted up in the holster so to speak and range rental guns that had horrendous amounts of rounds through them by people who abused them daily both intentionally and unintentionally. However I don’t agree with removing the side plate on these pieces as part of a regular regime of maintenance — it’s just not necessary. There is no call for lot of lube anywhere in the lockworks and honestly there are very few components that wear out on a regular basis. That is not to say these guns don’t get dirty and sometimes have problems but regular dismantling and lubing should not be in the mix according to any of the top S&W guys I know like Ron Power, Mr. Clark or even the S&W factory.
Those few times that I have run into cleaning related problems were with rental guns at a range that had digested thousands of rounds of reloads with dirty powders like Unique and Bullseye. Unique being one of the worst since with reduced range loads you get quite a bit of unburned powder flakes. The biggest problem is unburned power or residue accumulations under the extractor star back of the cylinder which can lock the gun up and render it unshootable for most owners. I like to relieve the back of the extractor star on the lathe and this typically eliminates this issue altogether. Other times I have seen carbon and crud that can find it’s way into the hand window but that is rare and most of the time doesn’t effect the performance of the gun. Also with dirty loads you will get a build up of carbon on the frame recoil shield behind the cylinder but that is easily cleaned with the cylinder opened and should be polished at bit.
If I were asked what part of a S&W DA revolver needed periodic cleaning and some lube I would say the extractor rod, center pin, springs the moving parts in the cylinder and maybe a dash on the yoke. For action or high usage shooters it is probably a good idea to periodically remove the yoke and cylinder and with the proper care clean the internals and lube a bit. Care must be taken to tighten the extractor rod to no more than 50 inch pounds and know which way the threads turn. All SS guns are LH thread and all 4 and 5 screw guns are RH but the three screw guns can be either and the design of the extractor rod end is the only way to tell. Once you know what you gun is write it down.
Don’t get me wrong I am all in favor of a gun owner knowing as much as he or she can on how their piece functions but like all things the more you know the more you realize how much you don’t know. Every revolver needs maintenance and care but I have to wonder just how much the average guy can tell looking at all the internals of a Smith and see what is really worn. Then you have to understand that a new replacement part most likely will not just drop in and work. If one part rides or works the next part and so on and so on isn’t it just common sense that you will end up with an accumulation of wear tolerances within the whole action that may just require real gunsmithing ? The question of measurable and acceptable wear on many of these parts is really illusive and many times a good smith does little more than modify or tweak those tiny riding surfaces by stoning and polishing the parts to improve performance.
First off I am a new guy here and just recently found this forum and what appears to be a lot of interest in revolver shooting. I hope to be able to share a bit and learn more.
I must say you are one person who has a thorough technical grasp of S &W lockworks and what should and should not be done to these revolvers. I have worked on S&W’s for pin and plate shooters and the BE crowd on and off for close to 25 years and I honestly don’t think I can explain things quite as nicely and clearly as you do. If your work is half as good as your instructions you must be one hell of a mechanic. Okay I guess I have blown enough smoke up your you know what so maybe I can comment on this thread.
I have worked on everything from service revolvers that had little if any maintenance and literally rusted up in the holster so to speak and range rental guns that had horrendous amounts of rounds through them by people who abused them daily both intentionally and unintentionally. However I don’t agree with removing the side plate on these pieces as part of a regular regime of maintenance — it’s just not necessary. There is no call for lot of lube anywhere in the lockworks and honestly there are very few components that wear out on a regular basis. That is not to say these guns don’t get dirty and sometimes have problems but regular dismantling and lubing should not be in the mix according to any of the top S&W guys I know like Ron Power, Mr. Clark or even the S&W factory.
Those few times that I have run into cleaning related problems were with rental guns at a range that had digested thousands of rounds of reloads with dirty powders like Unique and Bullseye. Unique being one of the worst since with reduced range loads you get quite a bit of unburned powder flakes. The biggest problem is unburned power or residue accumulations under the extractor star back of the cylinder which can lock the gun up and render it unshootable for most owners. I like to relieve the back of the extractor star on the lathe and this typically eliminates this issue altogether. Other times I have seen carbon and crud that can find it’s way into the hand window but that is rare and most of the time doesn’t effect the performance of the gun. Also with dirty loads you will get a build up of carbon on the frame recoil shield behind the cylinder but that is easily cleaned with the cylinder opened and should be polished at bit.
If I were asked what part of a S&W DA revolver needed periodic cleaning and some lube I would say the extractor rod, center pin, springs the moving parts in the cylinder and maybe a dash on the yoke. For action or high usage shooters it is probably a good idea to periodically remove the yoke and cylinder and with the proper care clean the internals and lube a bit. Care must be taken to tighten the extractor rod to no more than 50 inch pounds and know which way the threads turn. All SS guns are LH thread and all 4 and 5 screw guns are RH but the three screw guns can be either and the design of the extractor rod end is the only way to tell. Once you know what you gun is write it down.
Don’t get me wrong I am all in favor of a gun owner knowing as much as he or she can on how their piece functions but like all things the more you know the more you realize how much you don’t know. Every revolver needs maintenance and care but I have to wonder just how much the average guy can tell looking at all the internals of a Smith and see what is really worn. Then you have to understand that a new replacement part most likely will not just drop in and work. If one part rides or works the next part and so on and so on isn’t it just common sense that you will end up with an accumulation of wear tolerances within the whole action that may just require real gunsmithing ? The question of measurable and acceptable wear on many of these parts is really illusive and many times a good smith does little more than modify or tweak those tiny riding surfaces by stoning and polishing the parts to improve performance.
I've only been shooting them for 44 years and do not ever take them apart, even to take the sideplate off. If I saw a used revolver that I KNEW someone had taken apart, I would not buy it, period.
It's bad enough that some people feel they are instant experts on 1911's and take them apart to replace parts...I do not buy those used either-to many people "improve" them.
mark
It's bad enough that some people feel they are instant experts on 1911's and take them apart to replace parts...I do not buy those used either-to many people "improve" them.
mark
bedbugbilly
New member
I have taken apart my C & B revolvers . . . as far as my more "modern" ones . . no. My attitude is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". My attitude on those is that if I have a problem, I know several gunsmiths I can take it to . . . they have far greater knowledge than I and I'm sure more access to needed parts if necessary.
Now if you were talking semis . . .yes I have. I still haven't taken my new Ruger MK III Target apart yet though . . . and I'm really not looking forward to it.
Now if you were talking semis . . .yes I have. I still haven't taken my new Ruger MK III Target apart yet though . . . and I'm really not looking forward to it.
Ya know guys it aint rocket surgery. If you put lotsa rounds thru your shooter you really do owe it to yourself to take it apart and clean it. In two extreme cases I own a couple of M-60s that would come to a halt completely if they weren't disassembled and cleaned after firing.
I bought this guy and when I pulled the side plate off I had to chip the dried up grease and oil out of the action. It curently has the best double action that I have ever seen on a Colt.
I bought this guy and when I pulled the side plate off I had to chip the dried up grease and oil out of the action. It curently has the best double action that I have ever seen on a Colt.