Do you segregate your brass?

Do you segregate your fired cases by maker?

  • Yes.

    Votes: 76 65.0%

  • No.

    Votes: 41 35.0%
  • Total voters
    117
  • Poll closed .
Looks like I have five years of collected brass to go through, 90% mine 10% pickups from the range.
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Picked up at the range? I always ask. I have purchased cases from firing ranges; for me there is no advantage to simply picking up brass. When sorting cases there is something beyond sorting. My favorite cases are cases that have been fired in trashy old chambers. I want cases that are long from the shoulder to the case head. When sizing it is not easy to increase the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head unless the reloader starts with a case that is too long from the shoulder to the case head.

Meaning when sizing it is easy to shorten the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head.

F. Guffey
 
I also segregate by trim length range within head stamp. I also do not mix new brass in the same batch as reloads. I have gotten particular about the quality of my roll crimps.
 
I voted yes, but only in couple ways. I separate my rifle brass my headstamp because I found that rifle brass can vary quite a bit from maker to maker, and I'm usually trying to coax the most consistency from my rifle handloads as I can.

I also separate any Blazer brass from the rest of my .45 auto cases, as they seem to be all small primer pockets.

I don't really bother to separate any of my other handgun brass.
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Pretty much this.

For rifle, there is a benefit. And there may well be one for precision pistol, but for run of the mill plinking, paper punch, target shooting, etc. - there is absolutely no benefit to me to spend time separating brass by headstamp. Especially when I'm dumping powder charges and may have as much as a .1 or .2 grain variance, not to mention the variance in projectile weights or between brands of primers that are there.
 
Sure do with rifle. Federal Winchester and Frontier brass all show about the same impact grouping down range for me. Remington on the other hand never follows suit. Fellow club shooters give me Remington brass quite often. I never turn it down. But when seated at my reloading bench. All Remington brass it gets thrown into a catch all container.

Pistol yup. Reason too. Separate yellow from nickel. I personally think Nickel requires more/closer inspections. My experience. The Mouths on Nickel split more often or sooner than its yellow counter part.
 
Rifle brass for my BR- I sort by weight. All are the same Batch, but weight is still a biggy, one can by 300-6BR brass all Norma and sort out maybe 70 to 100 the same weight. 223- I sort by weight also. I keep ( deprimed) 93- 96 gns, sell the rest.
Pistol Brass-Never.
 
I didn't think enough about types of brass. I DO separate .308 and 30/06 brass into military and non-military bunches. Military goes in my military rifles and civilian into the others.
 
yes and no. For handgun I don't sort. For rifles I sort 2 ways one for precision/match, another for just general use. for my precision stuff, or If I am working up a load I will sort by headstamp, for general use i just sort between .223 and 5.56 brass.
 
Rifle brass, yes. Pistol brass, no.
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I agree......your variance holding a pistol contributes more to inaccuracy than the brass.......now the rifle is a different story and how much care you put into reloading depends on what you expect from your gun. If you are talking about small groups(bench rest accuracy) or just hunting accuracy you still want to be uniform on cases and everything you do.
 
I separate by head stamp, by how many times fired and by weight + or - .5gr for rifle, + or - .3 grain for pistol.. I can't swear how long I've separated my cases but it must be at least 30 years for rifle, 18 years for pistol.. William
 
It is a "Sometimes" question. I have formed a lot of brass and Winchester is usually the smallest and softest to use. I often separated by brand for reforming. I used to load +P .257 Roberts and separated that. When I first started reloading, I was separating the brass to count the firings. It got confusing with adding more used brass and now I don't bother. I actually had a box of .257 loaded up that cracked about halfway around the case because it was stretched so thin from being resized too many times. It fired and extracted fine in that rifle. (I am not saying it is good policy with all rifles!) I threw the rest of the brass away from that batch.
 
Yes to all of it.

I find too many little things when i sort that keeps me from just thinking it is all the same.

I purchased a couple of boxes of mixed range brass that once I sorted out, I found all sorts of nifty things in those.

If I am loading I like to load all the same headstamp. Even with the piddly 9mm loads I use those too are sorted according to brands.

Use what works for ya....
 
What cw308 said.

When it comes to handloading, you are your own quality control inspector, and little things like consistent length for consistent crimp, clean primer pockets to avoid high primers, sorting by headstamp to help with consistent case capacity, and various other little things can add up. This is really important to me when working up accurate loads. Large groups and missed targets are a waste of time and components.

It suits me to make the best ammunition that I can, even (especially) for practice ammo. :cool:
 
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