Do trigger characteristics matter in a self defense situation?

To each it’s own, but I buy firearms solely for self defense whether it be for the home or while out in public. Not for sport. Sure, I’ll take it to range every few months to practice with it, but If put in a SD situation where I have to fire it, do you think I care whether its a 4lb or 5lb trigger? Do you think I care about how long the travel or reset of that trigger is? No. I am going to fire it regardless until that threat is eliminated.

I never understood the fascination with a firearm’s trigger outside of competition/sport shooting. Am I missing something? :confused:

Stress is great at degrading accuracy. So is speed. Unless you have practiced shooting under stress at high speed, you don't know how bad you will be at being able to hit the target. Sadly true for most people, who utilize firearms in the way you describe...woefully deficient in the application of the fundamentals of shooting, when they are needed most.

Having done several shooting reconstructions as an expert, it is apparent that a moderately trained person is going to triple or more their "range qualification" group size. Some a lot more. Highly trained, practiced folks are going to see significantly less increase in group size.

Now, add in a poor, heavy trigger to the poorly trained person, which is a compounding effect. Yeah, that is not going to result in hits on target at any reasonable distance. It is one reason that folks who understand harp on regular practice just to maintain skills. A huge percentage of the folks in the US who carry a handgun are very unprepared to use it successfully.

The whole intent of practical competitions (IPSC and 3Gun originally) was to give people a format to practically use their firearms at speed and under stress. They have turned into games more than arenas to prove proficiency. Sad, but true.
 
I want crisp and light. Like my Wilson .45.

Or.

Smooth and mid weight, like a good revolver or, any of my Sig DAK guns.

I can shoot them both exceptionally well.

“Release slowly to the the reset, feel the reset” is silly. When the gun fires, release the trigger and start the trigger stroke again.

If you’re gonna spend any time on the trigger, spend it pressing the trigger. Not releasing it to the perfect point.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=li0rGtXh23I&t=202s&pp=ygUdUm9iIGxlYXRoYW0gYWltaW5nIGlzIHVzZWxlc3M=
 
@L-2

It actually is. It is a thread that I forgot that I created over 2yrs ago as I was curious about back then I guess, and even more so now as I see more and more shooters and reviewers strongly focusing on it.

I’m actually surprised that someone actually took the time out to over 2yrs back into someone’s thread history to find a similar thread. :rolleyes:
 
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“Release slowly to the the reset, feel the reset” is silly.

Its not at all silly, it is fine, sound advice. FOR initial familiarization, and for slow fire target type shooting.

When the gun fires, release the trigger and start the trigger stroke again.

This is my method, works on everything I've ever fired that wasn't full auto. :D

Easing the trigger forward until it resets (and no more) then pulling it again, could be faster, once learned, but it requires a few conditions in order for that to work AND be faster than just releasing the trigger.

First thing needed is an audible/tactile reset point. One that you can feel or at worst, hear, in order to tell the trigger has reset.

Second, it requires a gun with a consistent trigger pull. Most do that, but I have fired guns that did not. One of those happened to be a GLock.
(and before you go off saying "Glocks don't do that",,,that one DID. It wasn't a "design feature", other Glocks I've shot didn't do it, but that one, did. )

And the third thing needed to learn and use the "only release to the reset point" is being aware that, if you are using more than one gun, that reset point is likely to be different on each one. If you only use one gun, its not an issue, but releasing the trigger completely (all pressure off) works with everything. If you short stroke the trigger, the gun does not fire. TO me, this matters more heavily than the possible saving of fractions of a second.
 
A buddy of mine is friends with the worlds top shooters. He’s in the industry.

The FBI marksmanship unit invited the big boys down. They filmed them at super slow motion. After a day of shooting. And lots of video, they thanked them.

A few weeks later, invited them back to discuss their findings.

“Well, we analyzed all the video. And have discussed it at length. We believe you’re doing it wrong. You’re slapping the trigger. You’re completely letting your finger off the trigger after the gun fires. You’re not feeling for the re set….”

“Why am I a multi world champion in every speed shooting event?”

“We haven’t quite figured that out yet…..”
 
I make no claim that I'm doing it "right" I don't claim to be particularly good.
Mediocre maybe.
I've mostly shot good 22 semi-auto triggers or 1911's .(or single action wheel guns) "Reset?" Whats that?

Then I bought into S+W M+P striker guns. OK,I get "Reset" is a reality,sort of.

But its not a conscious part of my shooting. My relaxed "default" trigger finger is mostly extended till it touches the forward trigger guard bow. (My Shield Plus could stand to have the guard stretched forward 1/4 in or so)

I press the trigger the gun fires. It recoils. Unconsciously,during recoil, my trigger finger relaxes to being extended,ready for the next squeeze. The only "command" I send my trigger finger is "pull". Never "reset".
 
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“Well, we analyzed all the video. And have discussed it at length. We believe you’re doing it wrong. You’re slapping the trigger. You’re completely letting your finger off the trigger after the gun fires. You’re not feeling for the re set….”

“Why am I a multi world champion in every speed shooting event?”

“We haven’t quite figured that out yet…..”

Ah, the science types in white coats. They mean well.

Sometimes, people make things work despite not doing them the most efficient or most commonly accepted way to get things done. A buddy of mine was in a Louis Awerbuck class and called to the front of the class to demonstrate his style and Awerbuck had the class critique him on his shooting form. My buddy does just about everything wrong as a result of arthritis and injuries. His grip, arm position, stance, sighting (cross eye dominant) were all wrong and quite frankly, looks 'off,' but Awerbuck said, "Now look at the target. He hits consistently where he is supposed to hit. I am not telling him to change a thing about what he is doing."

Awerbuck wasn't a white coat guy, but more practical minded. He understood that when something works, even if you don't think it should, don't mess with it.
 
If you hit where you intend to hit, there is no "wrong". There may(or may not) be more efficient ways, for you.
 
I think I'm generally agreeing with most of the trigger-pull-related posts here. I've mostly been a Glock-user for 99% of my LE career. When I've encountered a glitch of some sort in one of my Glocks, I don't like it and immediately fix it. I'm not very particular too much whether it's a minus, dot, or unmarked connector and I've been ok with the more or less standardly issued ~5.5 pound pulls. I know I don't prefer the NY1 heavier trigger pulls, but could use it if I had to.

I also occasionally carry and train with 1911s and double-action revolvers, which have either lighter or heavier pulls vs. my Glocks. To a lesser extent, I'll carry and train with my SIGs with classic "da/sa" triggers. All the trigger types and feel of the pulls differ; they all work; I prefer my Glocks, perhaps because I had to use the issued Glocks over the years.

All this involves much shooting and many rounds down-range (I don't dry-fire too often, but do some amount of dry-firing, too).
 
Ever since getting my GP100 a few years ago I’ve had to ‘unlearn’ using the reset. The GP100 has a false reset and I only shoot DA so it was a major problem. I’m now back to just slapping the trigger like the old days. Hasn’t hurt my accuracy at all and I’m more than happy with my speed, maybe not a competition speed but more than adequate for SD.
 
To me, "slapping" the trigger means finger off it then on for the pull then off again after.

My personal method is leave my finger in contact with the trigger, but simply remove all pressure and let the trigger push my finger forward as it resets, IF I'm trying to shoot fast.

That being said, when I'm not trying to shoot as fast as possible, I often do remove my finger from the trigger completely.

AND, I always do that when shooting a Glock. I admit not having a lot of experience shooting Glocks but when I have, I found the trigger slaps my finger uncomfortably and distractingly as it resets. SO, with those, I do "slap back"...allowing the trigger to completely reset before putting my finger back on it.

If I happen to die as a result of that, you have my permission to say "I told you so", but until then, you do you, and I'll do me. :D
 
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