DIY polishing of internal parts

db4570, I am concerned as a fellow bg m&p 380 owner.

I have had good luck with everything but Tula and Winchester dollar a holler hollow point ammo. After looking at the ammo, both ammo brands with failures had the casings folded over at some point on the crimp. I don't know if this is a common problem with the 380 casing or what. Some reloaders here might have input on that. I am at 470 rounds minus the half box of Tula I threw out, and 3 out of 20, dollar a round Winchester hollow points.

Winchester white box 95 JHP, and Winchester 95 FMJ seem to work fine.
 
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What lube, if any, should be on the firing pin, its springs, and blocker? I assume that here, especially, the less lube the better.

I use Lubriplate oil on my guns, and Lubriplate grease on slides.

The guy I reference who wrote the DIY "fluff 'n' buff" for the Bodyguard 380 likes to use some sort of Teflon coating on some parts. I know nothing about this stuff. Any opinions?

David
 
OK, another wrench. I'm NOT trying to start an argument! Just my experiences I deal with almost daily.
I checked the type gun you guys are talking about and it is a hammer fired weapon.
You realize I don't do anything but tune S.A. revolvers, I do not call myself a gunsmith.
Someone mentioned a couple of times about lightening the action won't help a ftf.
I beg to differ. Some new guns that I get right from the factory have ftf probs. (c&b rev. won't bust a cap) and have a hammer draw of 7+ lbs.
The prob. isn't the strength of the main spring, it's all the friction of everything the hammer has to overcome on its way down. Tuning in fact is all about making a weapon reliable as well as easier to function safely.
These same revolvers leave with almost no (no such thing as none) friction for the hammer on the way down and only a 3 1/2- 3 3/4 lb. hammer draw . . . . with 100% ignition.

I contend that "clearing the path" and smoothing an action is very much a cure for a ftf situation. ( barring any obvious missing parts of course).

I'm just saying . . .

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
Tool and die experience won't help. It's most likely nothing to do with the pistol. More likely an ammo issue. Always start with the easy stuff. Change ammo first, then look into springs and the trigger job all new firearms require.
 
I would get a set-or two-of the internal spare parts and use THEM to practice on, that way you still have the originals as originals.
 
I can't wait to get it back. Mostly to see if they've fixed it. But I do want to look at the firing mechanism more closely.

It seems like FTFire should be the simplest thing to fix. I can better imagine how a FTFeed or FTE could happen. There's a LOT going on there, all at once, with perfect timing and geometry.

But to fire, it's just a matter of the firing pin whacking the primer hard enough. You need a strong enough spring, the pin able to move freely, and the case tight in the chamber. I know I am over-simplifying. But can you understand why I might want to poke around in there a bit?

David
 
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