I think your big hole at 11:00 suggests that is where your sights are placing your bullets. This can differ a little from what a machine rest does because that eliminates recoil against your hands from the equation, and they can cause a push one way or another by a little bit. It just means your rear sight needs to be drifted slightly to the right. If it's not your hands it is just your sights being where they are. You can check that with a laser bore sighting tool. Insert it in the barrel and see where it points. Rotate it 180° and look again. Your actual POA will be about half way between those points.
Distance to drift move the rear sight right:
Right Drift = POI inches left of center × distance between front and rear sights / range in inches
It looks from placing your holes over a copy of the B27 target I have, that you are about 0.9" left and 3.25" high. Using the above formula for your Glock, we have:
Right Drift = 0.9" × 6.02" / 300 inches = 0.018" to the right.
If you are standing at the firing line and holding the gun out 2 feet while shooting, then the actual range to the gun is probably more like 23 feet, in which case the drift would be closer to 0.020" to the right.
Shooting a lighter bullet weight will lower point of impact. If that's not an option, then the front sight needs to be shaved about 0.07" or replaced with a sight that much lower (same formula as above, but with the vertical error substituted in, and because we are looking at the front sight, it alters in the same direction you want the point of impact (POI) to move, rather than the opposite direction as you must do with the rear sight).
If we are correct that the big hole is the current sight POI, then the holes not in the group are mainly low and left. For a right handed shooter this is the classic result of a flinch sneaking in. Usually it is from attempting to force the gun to go off right at the exact moment the sights are perfectly aligned. One of the hardest things for a new shooter to learn is that some noise and wobble will always be in the hold and that the main thing is to focus on not disturbing the sights when the trigger releases the striker. If you try to force a release at an exact moment rather than letting it be off a tenth of a second or two, then the additional muscles you have to contract to accelerate the pressing of the trigger invariably increases your hand's force on the back of the frame opposite your trigger finger (in order to hold against the more rapid press) and that pushes a handgun down. The same contractions always bend your wrist slightly toward your body centerline, too, and thus the shots are low and left for a northpaw and low and right for a southpaw.