CZ 75B question

GunLuvr01

New member
Hey guys, I recently bought a new CZ 75, I absolutely love the gun. So far I have put a little over a hundred rounds through it with no problems of any kind. The gun feels great in my hand, my only complaints would be the mag release button is very stiff, and the gun looks like CZ spray painted it, and the slide was starting to rust in the port where the recoil spring inserts in the slide. My question is how durable is the 75B? I have read reports about slide stops breaking due to weak recoil springs. I also read that the frame is a weak point. I'm not sure how accurate that is considering the gun has an all steel frame. What has been your experience with the CZ 75B?
 
You are overthinking it. IMHO The CZ75B properly taken care of will out last most of us. There was a time recoil springs were considered weak. That is no longer the case.

Is this a NIB gun or and older surplus? The current polycoat is a very durable finish. The older spray on paint will flake off. If this is an older gun then I would replace the recoil spring as a precaution. I do not think you are going to break a slide stop unless the spring is really weak.

The frame is not a weak point. It is an extremely durable pistol that should last a lifetime. Enjoy it. I don't have any advice for the stiff mag release.
 
I bought mine new less than a month ago, I use it mostly for home defense. The recoil spring feels a little weak compared to the one in the P09 model. I believe mine is supposed to be 13lbs.
 
I bought mine new less than a month ago, I use it mostly for home defense. The recoil spring feels a little weak compared to the one in the P09 model. I believe mine is supposed to be 13lbs.

I have a hard time believing that the gun is rusting if it is less than 1 month old. Did you clean all of the factory grease out of the gun. Sometimes once you shoot it that grease will harden and turn a rust color.

If the gun is brand new then the recoil spring is weak. You can always call CZ and most likely they would send you a new one but I don't think it will matter. The all steel construction of the 75B should give you 50,000+ rounds in its lifetime.
 
SweetShooter, please try not to be so quick to judge. I'm not a troll, I am only sharing a concern hoping to receive honest sincere answers from folks that have experience with the CZ75 platform. It's your choice whether you believe me or not when I say my particular gun has some minor cosmetic issues. It may not be an issue with the whole 75B line, my gun could be an exception, but I still love the gun and plan to keep it.
 
GunLuvr01 SweetShooter, please try not to be so quick to judge. I'm not a troll, I am only sharing a concern hoping to receive honest sincere answers from folks that have experience with the CZ75 platform. It's your choice whether you believe me or not when I say my particular gun has some minor cosmetic issues. It may not be an issue with the whole 75B line, my gun could be an exception, but I still love the gun and plan to keep it.

Okay. But it just doesn't add up. Are you sure it's rust?
-SS-
 
The substance I wiped out of the port where the guide rod goes was brown. I soaked a cleaning patch in G96 CLP and pushed it into the port with a wooden dowel rod and it came out brown. I repeated this process several times until the substance was gone. Am I sure it was rust? No, but considering the gun has an all steel frame, I figured it was a possibility.
 
The substance I wiped out of the port where the guide rod goes was brown. I soaked a cleaning patch in G96 CLP and pushed it into the port with a wooden dowel rod and it came out brown. I repeated this process several times until the substance was gone. Am I sure it was rust? No, but considering the gun has an all steel frame, I figured it was a possibility.

It sounds like it's the preserving grease they use. Rust is usually a little more stubborn than coming off simply from the presence of CLP. If it's actually rust, use a light and shine it in that area and look for surface corrosion.
 
Pictures? Here is my SS 75B, P-01 and more CZ nectar.. I got the 75B last year. Ain't they pretty?
 

Attachments

  • cz 1.jpg
    cz 1.jpg
    71.7 KB · Views: 54
My "CZ75" is actually a clone made by Tanfoglio. I bought it surplus, one of the ones the Israelis used for military training and/or shooting clubs. It was shot a LOT. I am guessing way more than I will every shoot any one firearm in my entire lifetime. It functions perfectly. So don't worry, your pistol will be fine. Enjoy it! :)
 
I will try to take a closer look with a light, hopefully it is just some type of preservative.


I'm 99.999% sure you had shipping preservative and not rust. Rust doesn't come off with solvents nor leave a clean surface unless sanded off!

The slide stop is a well known weakness in the cz 75. Oddly, not with the tanfoglio version. But, I wouldn't be worried about it. The breaking is related mostly to competition setup guns with low force recoil springs. Seems odd, but high level competitor's guns have weak springs to reduce the muzzle DIP on return to battery. They use technique and muscle to manage muzzle rise as the slide slams back. But, even with that the guns go 20,000+ rounds without breaking one. Not a worry for normal folks, but if you shoot 25,000 rounds a year...
 
I've had a bunch of CZs over the years, and am still shooting a CZ-85 Combat that has 10K+ rounds through it. The only slide stop I ever broke was early on, in the 85 Combat, when I -- while trying different slides on different frames -- mistakenly put the 85 Combat slide stop in a CZ Compact frame. (Because the 85 Combat has an ambidextrous slide stop, the far end is made differently, and isn't supported properly in the Compact's frame. It broke with the second shot.

Slide stops do break, but it's not common. I suspect that a stronger recoil spring might cause as much damage to a slide stop as a weak one -- because when a stronger recoil spring is used, it sends the slide and barrel forward with greater force, and only the slide stop can stop them. (When those two components are going to the rear, the recoil spring AND the slide stop and the hammer spring are all handling the force of the movement to the rear.)

Keep in mind: the main task of a recoil spring in most semi-autos is to store enough energy to cycle the slide. The recoil spring is there to protect the frame, the slide stop, or the shooter.
 
I've read about the slide stop breaking, but that seems to be fairly rare and only after heavy use. My heaviest-use CZ is only at around 8,000 rounds, though, so I'll defer to the others on this one.

The FP retaining pin is definitely a weak point if you dry fire often; I bought a surplus 75B (1998 manufacture) that actually broke in the process of removing it. I have no idea how many dry fires it took to get that far, but CZ Custom and Cajun Gun Works both sell a much stronger roll pin for I think $3. I really wish CZ would update the OEM part.
 
Independent George said:
The FP retaining pin is definitely a weak point if you dry fire often; I bought a surplus 75B (1998 manufacture) that actually broke in the process of removing it. I have no idea how many dry fires it took to get that far, but CZ Custom and Cajun Gun Works both sell a much stronger roll pin for I think $3. I really wish CZ would update the OEM part.

I used to pooh-pooh the claims about firing pin retention roll pins breaking, having dry-fired numerous CZ many, many times. Then I picked up a new CZ-40B and broke one almost immediately. (It's almost the same design internally, and how the firing pin block works.)

CZ later upgraded their guns by inserting a second pin inside the roll pin. Now the guns apparently come with solid pins rather than roll pins.

You can use SNAP CAPS if you have an older one, or simply pick up a roll pin at a local hardware store. You'll have to cut it to the proper length. (I did that with my 40B -- it cost $.75.)

You can probably get an upgraded pin from CZ-USA, too -- I haven't looked or asked -- for a very reasonable price, if not for free.
 
Walt - good to know! Do you know when they replaced the pins? My most recent purchases were 2014, and they still had the old roll pins installed.

I always use a rubber O-ring to dry fire, partly as a backup safety, but it also to protect the retaining pin (though I also have the CGW pin installed in all my guns). I like redundancy.
 
Back
Top