Cylinder rubs on frame when open

I'm not sure I understand. The screw retains the crane but doesn't put any tension on it. The lower arbor is a snug fit in the frame and there should be no perceptible side movement or any end movement once the screw (either type) is in place. (Sometimes the new type screw will allow some forward movement, but in a properly fitted pistol that should not happen because the pointed plunger should not be able to move into the screw when the screw is tightened down.)

Jim
 
That is correct, tension may not be the correct word, but the older style is fit to the groove in the crane, and the newer style uses the spring in the pointed end to accomplish the same thing. This may cause cylinder fitment problems, but probably not the rubbing which is evident on the op's revolver.
 
If the cylinder is not in alignment, it could be a bent yoke, or it could be a bent frame. I would check it out very carefully before spending any more money on it. In fact, I see something odd about the top strap, almost like welding. Is it the result of flame cutting or is something else involved? I think that gun badly needs a checking out by someone who really knows what to look for and has the proper gauges.

Sorry if your deal turned out to be a lemon, but that is the price of buying things sight unseen.

Jim
 
You know, I had initially thought that was from flame cutting, but upon closer inspection, it appears to have been banged or dropped there. The flame cutting is actually not bad at all. I had just assumed it was because of that little bump, which is close, but doesn't actually line up with the flame line. After a bit of cleaning and close inspection, the flame cutting is very minimal - almost imperceptible when dragging the fingernail over it.

there certainly doesn't appear to be any welding.

I'm starting to get the impression that most of the issues with this gun have to do with swinging it shut, and not with an overly aggressive magnum diet.

As I look back on the photos I should have known better than to get this, but I do think this one's salvageable. I'll have someone more knowledgeable (who has gauges!)look at it, and might well end up sending it back to S&W.
 
The way it looks to me is that the yoke/crane is opening too far. Looks uneven at the contact edges that catch it. Is the cylinder straight when opened or clearly out of alignment?
 
It's out of alignment when opened, but seems fine when closed. It's hard to tell - it might be opening a bit farther than on my 581. It certainly flops out easier - it's quite floppy.
 
Well as long as you know what to look for, it's not a problem at all.'

But of course, doing that through the internet is essentially impossible. Whenever I buy a used revolver online, I make sure to message the seller to get as detailed a description on the gun's function and condition as I can. I ask about endshake, cylinder wobble, condition of the bore, etc. etc. and even then I'm still wary.

OP, I'd send it back to the mothership. The 681 is an awesome revolver that I'd love to own someday.
 
I often get in trouble with dealers because it usually takes me about 30 seconds to give a used revolver a thorough checkup. Then I tell the dealer what is wrong with the gun, and he gets ticked because I couldn't possibly have known that in such a short time. Oh, well.

Jim
 
I grabbed some feeler gauges today. I looks like the cylinder is at .002 or slightly less when forward, and I can just squish the .008 when back.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top