cylinder face protection

I'm fully aware of avoiding mixing petro with BP, and I've used Crisco.
Just never Frog Lube & never corn oil or olive oil.

I have a tube of Bore Butter that's been here for years, works fine as an arbor lube. Never felt any need to look for organic solutions in oils.

As a wise man once said- It's a gun, it ain't a salad. :)
Denis
 
Didn't want to double post, but see this post I made in another thread:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5815923#post5815923

Keep this in mind if you should happen to see a new Smith & Wesson with no carbon rings on the cylinder face. Because at that point, your brain will WANT to think "Hey! This has never been fired!" :p:D

...and what your brain SHOULD be thinking is, "bubba scrubbed this with a three dollar brush for cleaning a gas grill... :eek:"
 
As a wise man once said- It's a gun, it ain't a salad.
Denis
Click to expand...

another wise man once said "don't go p***ing money away when you don't have to" ;)

Why pay for a "gun specific product" when I have stuff around the house that works just fine?
Mike


These days I normally use Ballistol for cleaning and lubingg because it compatible with my smokeless and BP guns. Same principal. One product for multiple uses.

Crisco for projectile lube with the BP stuff :D
 
I only clean the ring off the stainless cylinders when I am going to sell the gun.
Normally, I use a metal polish like Mothers or Flitz. But, this is a problem with bead blasted finishes, as it will change the finish by polishing it away.
I have found that soaking with Hoppes No 9 will soften the black marks and they can then be removed with a tooth brush, at least, for a limited number of cleanings. It took a couple of soakings to get a good job.
I still used a lead cleaning cloth around the forcing cone. On my shooting guns, I live with the carbon, unless the build up gets too much. Then, I would do the soak.

Best,
Rick
 
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