Cylinder discolored
- Thread starter BoogieMan
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Mike Irwin
Staff
They are the gingers of the handgun world.
I really like the test shown here, and if I take it at face value -- I can honestly say that I feel quite a bit better about what the "Lead Away" cloths can & will do. Sincerely. I feel like I learned something about this product on the market. (thought I've never bought it... and never had a notion to... and frankly, still don't)
I still stand by my position that a cylinder face on an obviously used gun that has been worked over to remove the burn rings that I'm certain I can make re-appear in six shots... is still a red flag for me when considering purchase. Deal breaker? No, but all else being equal, please keep Bubba and -all- of his methods away from the cylinder face.
While I'm at it, keep Bubba away from taking a classy brushed stainless and making look like the belching pipe of a Harley that will show the reflection of the overweight broad with the cigarette hanging out of her mouth. A stainless gun shouldn't look like a nickel plated gun, it should look the way the manufacturer birthed it. That one is a deal-breaker.
Now... anyone wanna cry?
(next post)
I still stand by my position that a cylinder face on an obviously used gun that has been worked over to remove the burn rings that I'm certain I can make re-appear in six shots... is still a red flag for me when considering purchase. Deal breaker? No, but all else being equal, please keep Bubba and -all- of his methods away from the cylinder face.
While I'm at it, keep Bubba away from taking a classy brushed stainless and making look like the belching pipe of a Harley that will show the reflection of the overweight broad with the cigarette hanging out of her mouth. A stainless gun shouldn't look like a nickel plated gun, it should look the way the manufacturer birthed it. That one is a deal-breaker.
Now... anyone wanna cry?
(next post)
Young friend of mine contacts me and says "guy at work is offering me a S&W .357 for $500, should I buy it?"
My friend has never owned a revolver. I tell him that I'll be happy to interview this revolver for him, but no...don't buy it on a lark.
So he swaps his prized Beretta 92F for a couple days, just for the ability to bring the mystery Smith & Wesson home, so I can drop by and check it out.
What I find is a Model 19-3 in pretty good condition! Early 70's, original stocks, your basic 4-inch blued K-frame revolver.
"but there's something wrong I think, the cylinder won't turn..."
He hands it to me and when open, the cylinder spins freely. Lock the revolver close and it's dead stopped. I go to the most common issue... I unscrew, then re-screw the ejector rod, and get a look under the ejector star to ensure there's nothing under it that is pushing to tie up the cylinder.
This does NOT work. And this is when the problem became obvious.
The owner of this revolver (another 22-year old guy) decided he would make a whole lot of the "visible wear" go away... with gloss black paint.
I didn't have terrific lighting where I was attempting to inspect this S&W for possible purchase. But I used what I did have to find the entire cylinder face -- and as if that weren't enough, the entire ejector star and all the ratchets
covered in a nice coat of gloss black paint. The guy also painted over the visible portions of the color case-hardened hammer and trigger.
I completely unscrewed the ejector rod and REMOVED the ejector star. Took it OUT of the cylinder, and then closed the cylinder, and it -STILL- wouldn't turn.
That's how this idiotic story is on topic. Please, children, do not paint revolvers.
(seriously? This kid has a future in detail painting. He does awfully good painting work. If this were a non-firing replica, prop or display, the guy is a heckuva painter)
My friend has never owned a revolver. I tell him that I'll be happy to interview this revolver for him, but no...don't buy it on a lark.
So he swaps his prized Beretta 92F for a couple days, just for the ability to bring the mystery Smith & Wesson home, so I can drop by and check it out.
What I find is a Model 19-3 in pretty good condition! Early 70's, original stocks, your basic 4-inch blued K-frame revolver.
"but there's something wrong I think, the cylinder won't turn..."
He hands it to me and when open, the cylinder spins freely. Lock the revolver close and it's dead stopped. I go to the most common issue... I unscrew, then re-screw the ejector rod, and get a look under the ejector star to ensure there's nothing under it that is pushing to tie up the cylinder.
This does NOT work. And this is when the problem became obvious.
The owner of this revolver (another 22-year old guy) decided he would make a whole lot of the "visible wear" go away... with gloss black paint.
I didn't have terrific lighting where I was attempting to inspect this S&W for possible purchase. But I used what I did have to find the entire cylinder face -- and as if that weren't enough, the entire ejector star and all the ratchets
covered in a nice coat of gloss black paint. The guy also painted over the visible portions of the color case-hardened hammer and trigger.I completely unscrewed the ejector rod and REMOVED the ejector star. Took it OUT of the cylinder, and then closed the cylinder, and it -STILL- wouldn't turn.
That's how this idiotic story is on topic. Please, children, do not paint revolvers.
(seriously? This kid has a future in detail painting. He does awfully good painting work. If this were a non-firing replica, prop or display, the guy is a heckuva painter)
buck460XVR
New member
As I said before, carbon on my cylinder don't bother me at all, lead away cloths are safe in my opinion, but unnecessary. So I don't have a dog in the fight. I do challenge ANYONE here tho, to count to 100 by ones in 10 seconds. Sorry....but I call BS on that one.
Waspinator
New member
More so then the one you presented. I am sure we all would have loved to see some pictures of your claimed results, but alas.......
Ummm...... huh? I don't think anyone said it wasn't an abrasive. I do believe we said it was a low grade abrasive that won't cut into hardened steel because of the vast hardness differences between the abrasive and the material it is being used on.
No, I said its up to the induividual if it is worth thier time, I never stated there was any risk involved. I have always contended that these products will do no harm and after my testing I know it won't.
That's some pretty fuzzy math. let us see... 100 times every 10 seconds, that's 10 times per second... there's 60 seconds in a minute....... Hmmmm
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newfrontier45
Moderator
You rub two directions, back and forth. Count every other stroke, double that number. It ain't rocket science, my God people. Why would I make a number that anybody with a finger and a watch can duplicate???????
I really don't think this discussion can degrade any further.
I have to give Waspinator credit, he did actually go to more effort than I ever expected. Which is a lot more than I can say for most others who responded. If nothing else, at least we have a credible test, done with proper equipment. Folks reading this thread can decide for themselves and that's all I wanted.
Much better than just the meaningless "you're wrong because I said so" nonsense.
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Aguila Blanca
Staff
Do you really believe that anyone can make ten passes per SECOND (five in each direction) and sustain that rate for a full minute?newfrontier45 said:
I don't think I get that rate even with a shoe brush at the polishing stage. I KNOW I don't get anywhere near that when using metal polish on metal -- it's more like ONE back-and-forth cycle per second.
And, somehow, even though you appear to be "technically" correct that the lead remover cloth removes some metal -- I just don't see 20 millionths of an inch as being "statistically significant." And don't forget -- that was on unhardened, mild steel.
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buck460XVR
New member
That's not what you said before.....my God newfrontier. Here are YOUR exact words.
Now you change your story. Not really adding to any credibility. BTW....I challenge you to count by twos and get to 100 in ten seconds. Try it. As you said we all have a watch. Most of the rest of us don't use our fingers as we count anymore, it only slows us down.
newfrontier45
Moderator
No genius, you're not counting every stroke. If you stroke back and forth, you count every forward stroke and double that number. For the slow among us, that number is 50. So if I'm counting every other stroke, then the total number of strokes would be 50 times 2. Which is 100. Get it? You wanna talk about credibility??? If you can't count to 50 in ten seconds, I can't help you.
Sweet Shooter
New member
***? Why hasn't this thread been closed already? Just when I think something interesting was added—such as what Waspinator posted, we find the bickering still raging. Is this a gun forum or a pi55ing match?
-SS-
-SS-
SS, why let it bother you???? Gleen the info 'you' want and .... move on 
. Life goes a bit easier that way 
.
For me, what doesn't come off with a wipe of Hoppes #9 stays. Blued or Stainless. Simple. Life is to short to worry about silly blast rings on a 'working' gun
. And all my guns are working guns!
. Life goes a bit easier that way .For me, what doesn't come off with a wipe of Hoppes #9 stays. Blued or Stainless. Simple. Life is to short to worry about silly blast rings on a 'working' gun
. And all my guns are working guns!Is this what we are talking about?
Reason I'm asking us because I'm cleaning up a ported 6" 686 that I'm going to bring to my LGS to put on consignment. So far I've tried Frog Lube, Hoppes Elite Ultra and now M-Pro 7 and those marks ain't budging
Since I don't intended to shoot this gun again would the lead away wipes do the trick? Caveat is that this gun has probably sat in the safe uncleaned fir maybe 10 years. I actually forgot I owned it doh
Reason I'm asking us because I'm cleaning up a ported 6" 686 that I'm going to bring to my LGS to put on consignment. So far I've tried Frog Lube, Hoppes Elite Ultra and now M-Pro 7 and those marks ain't budging
Since I don't intended to shoot this gun again would the lead away wipes do the trick? Caveat is that this gun has probably sat in the safe uncleaned fir maybe 10 years. I actually forgot I owned it doh
Yes, those are the rings we are talking about.
Yes, the Lead Away cloths will take those off.
Yes, some Flitz creme on a piece of paper towel will rub those off.
Yes, they will re-appear just as soon as you start shooting.
And yes, as a couple of us have said, when shopping for a used gun...
...we would prefer to see those on the revolver, rather than wonder or worry about the method that the previous owner might have used to remove them.
Yes, the Lead Away cloths will take those off.
Yes, some Flitz creme on a piece of paper towel will rub those off.
Yes, they will re-appear just as soon as you start shooting.
And yes, as a couple of us have said, when shopping for a used gun...
...we would prefer to see those on the revolver, rather than wonder or worry about the method that the previous owner might have used to remove them.
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
Looks like the opening question was immediately answered and after that a lot of fly-poop was picked out of very little pepper.
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