Pond James Pond
New member
This concerns a BP Uberti 1858 replica.
If I cock the hammer, the cylinder turns, as you'd expect.
As it does, the cylinder lock pops up to hold the cylinder in place. So far so good.
However, it does so early.
In fact it does so in such a way that only half the width of the stop is over the cylinder recess. The rest slams into the metal of the cylinder and only pops into place once the hammer is pulled a little further before cocking fully and the cylinder has been pulled in line with the barrel.
Now when it's all locked up the cylinder is perfectly aligned with the barrel, so that tells me that playing around with the cylinder hand (? The part that pushes on the star and makes the cylinder rotate below the hammer) is a bad idea.
So the only bits I can imagine can be fettled to affect only the point when the stop springs up are the stop itself and a raised, circular section on the side of the hammer that the stop engages with one of the prongs on the stop.
My question is two-fold:
First, am I right in saying that the easier of the two to work is the stop itself?
Second, am I right in saying that the inner prong of the stop that engages with that circular section of the hammer would need to be longer to delay the stop being released?
I have ordered two spare stops that I can work with and should have them by next Monday.
I'm assuming/hoping that they have not been filed down the way the one in the revolver is, meaning I have some prong length to work with.
If that is the case I'm thinking of taking off very small amounts until the bolt releases.
If I cock the hammer, the cylinder turns, as you'd expect.
As it does, the cylinder lock pops up to hold the cylinder in place. So far so good.
However, it does so early.
In fact it does so in such a way that only half the width of the stop is over the cylinder recess. The rest slams into the metal of the cylinder and only pops into place once the hammer is pulled a little further before cocking fully and the cylinder has been pulled in line with the barrel.
Now when it's all locked up the cylinder is perfectly aligned with the barrel, so that tells me that playing around with the cylinder hand (? The part that pushes on the star and makes the cylinder rotate below the hammer) is a bad idea.
So the only bits I can imagine can be fettled to affect only the point when the stop springs up are the stop itself and a raised, circular section on the side of the hammer that the stop engages with one of the prongs on the stop.
My question is two-fold:
First, am I right in saying that the easier of the two to work is the stop itself?
Second, am I right in saying that the inner prong of the stop that engages with that circular section of the hammer would need to be longer to delay the stop being released?
I have ordered two spare stops that I can work with and should have them by next Monday.
I'm assuming/hoping that they have not been filed down the way the one in the revolver is, meaning I have some prong length to work with.
If that is the case I'm thinking of taking off very small amounts until the bolt releases.
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