CVA Hawkens Rifle

i disagree! the cva mountain rifle is easily their most popular sidelock and holds their value. Esp when you get the maple-usa made mtn rifles.

I always use a wood stripper and then follow up with sand paper, lightly sanding of course then i bleach the wood. After that its some more 220 grit paper going against the grain, then stain and wood finish. I like track of the wolf antique formula original oil finish. Takes a couple weeks of hand rubbing but it awesome stuff.
 
I have to agree with FrontierGander. The CVA Mountain Rifle is easily the most popular and well built of all their 1960's-1990's products. There are many people on The Muzzleloader Forum who would like to have one.

They were made with both browned and blued barrels. The iron furniture was left unfinished, protected from rust by a wax or oil application.

Here are some pictures of Mountain Rifles posted on a recent thread on The Muzzleloading Forum. The barrel on the first one is blued, the other two are browned.
 

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man i LOVE that stock on the first one!!! What is that a special type of maple? The 2nd pic more closely resembles the stock on my rifle. Thanks for those pics.
 
That first stock is 'showy', but in my opinion it's way too fancy for a Mountain Rifle. Frankly, it looks out of place to me. That gun may be one of the reissues, the 'Mountain Rifle Classic' that was done in the 2004 time frame. It had a 'special maple stock' but was supposed to have had a browned barrel.
 
It would be great if you could and would donate it to a gun club for a big match. Try to find a muzzle loading club. Then take a deduction off your taxes. Everybody win now...
 
The deduction off my taxes isn't worth losing one of the last memorable pieces of my dad AND the Scoutmaster, one of the single most influential men in my life.
 
good point, I was worried about the fit of the plates and the patch box after sanding.
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Good observation and depending on how much sanding you have to do, I'd sand with the brass on and polish them out later. Just remove your original screws and reinstall sacrificial screws while doing your sanding. This will allow for a bettter match and fit when you reassemble your piece. I know you will enjoy this project and like the results. Good luck and keep us posted.



Be Safe !!!
 
Thanks! I appreciate all the help. What would be a good product to clean the internal metal work with the hammer and triggers to remove years (and I mean years) of dirt, light surface rust, etc.
 
Not sure how dirty it is but for starters, I use a product by Heet, called diesel fuel stabilizer. It will not hurt the bluing or the case hardened finish on your lock plate. Keep in mind that once you remove any rooted rust, you will have bare metal. I have taken locks apart that were very dirty and that was the best way to clean them.




Be Safe !!!
 
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