CVA Hawken Build Sheet?

oh boy this rifle may give me a head ache LOL. Some times they just dont want to work easy for us.

If the lock works good outside of the stock and then binds up and doesnt drop when its in the stock, could have wood thats hitting the lock spring or tumbler, causing it to jam. Really hard to figure this over the net.
 
just thought of something, With the lock installed into the stock, along with the trigger, go to full cock, set the triggers and then JERK back hard on the trigger and see if that causes the hammer to fall.
 
I adjusted that screw the way you said and it is working like it should now I think. Does it normally take a bit of pull to set the set trigger?

Also is it ok to dry fire these. I thought I saw where the manual said the hammer shouldn't rest on the nipple. Is that at all times or just with a cap?

Thank you so much for your help by the way! Time to go shopping for supple BP supplies!
 
Trigger pull will depend on how much that screw is adjusted. Mine breaks at maybe 5 to 6 ounces. Try a half turn inward on that screw and see if that helps. Theres also more adjustment in the front trigger area.


WHEW!! Glad we got something going LOL, at least its starting to work. Just needs fine tuning.
 
You shouldnt really dry fire it as it will damage the nipple, BUT, they are only $7 so if you want to play... Play! Its a simple replacement and probably should get replaced with a new one anyway.

Replacement nipple is the 6-1mm thread.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/159/1/HOT-SHOT-CVA

Nows the time to hit the lock with some lube as well. A dry lock can make it actually bind up and feel heavier in the trigger. Any gun oil will do for now.
 
One screw is slotted (the rear) and the center is not, but I can turn it with my fingers. One last question, how do these work?

Anything else you can think of before shooting? This is a 26 year old rifle that set in a basement over 10 years and has never been shot! Thanks again.

 
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what the heck! That middle screw looks upside down lol, theres supposed to be a slot in it.

That rear screw, if you screw it in, applies pressure and makes pulling it back harder. Basically it will smack the locks sear harder and set it off.
 
Is it ok to just pull out and turn around without things flying apart inside? Meaning the middle.

That rear one WAS all the way in when I started this too.
 
If I might just inject a comment Frontier gander .
CVA used 2 different set triggers .
a) is a hunting trigger which will fire in both set and unset positions
b) is a target trigger which has to be set to work .
While they look much the same , they work differently in that
a) has the trigger bar engagement on the side of the trigger bars
b) has the engagement on the end of the trigger bars
This trigger set appears to be (A) . thus the back set screw is the adjustment for the trigger main spring . It does 2 things
a) adjust the pull pressure required to set the rear trigger .
b) adjusts the amount of up pressure applied to the rear trigger . Thus enabling the sear to be , for lack of a better description, pre loaded .

I also have found CVA triggers that were either assembled wrong as the enter adjustment screw was upside down or it may have been a short turn application change so as to try and stop the loss or backing out of the screw . Which was a common problem with CVA triggers .
In which case the triggers travel /pull are adjusted while out of the gun while the main spring tension is adjusted while in the gun .
 
Thanks for your input Captchee. I think in fact is is the target trigger as it will only fire once the set trigger is set.
 
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I adjusted that screw the way you said and it is working like it should now I think. Does it normally take a bit of pull to set the set trigger?
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Yes that is normal.

You can dry fire without cocking the hammer.
Just pull the rear trigger to set the front. Then practice with the front in its set mode. The hammer won't even move.
 
think in fact is is the target trigger as it will only fire once the set trigger is set.
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If your trigger is the one shown on the past page, it’s the hunting trigger as the trigger bars are side by side. It may not be inlet properly so a to work as it should .

As to dry firing . You should not drop the hammer onto a bare nipple . Doing so will eventually mushroom out the top of the nipple . . Pick you up one of those black faucet washers that goes in the hot or cold nobs for your sink . They fit over the nipple nicely and with the taper up they normal wont let the hammer fully strike the nipple . Or you can just put a piece of leather over the nipple . But that can also plug the hole in the nipple so???
 
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