CVA Hawken Build Sheet?

baddarryl

New member
Hi all. I have a CVA Hawken 50cal kit gun that sat in a basement for 10 years that an old girlfriend gave to me. It somehow ended up at my dads and he built and presented it to me a about 10 or more years ago. It is fully assembled, albeit looks a little rough, it cocks, but will not release as you pull the trigger. It will lower the hammer if I pull the trigger and pull the hammer rearward before letting down. Has never been fired.

When he gave it to me he said he lost a part that would need to be ordered. Neither one of us can remember what that was now. I would like to be able to take the action apart and see what it is, but really feel it would be good to have the original build sheet. Does anyone have a link to one? I would love to turn it into a functioning firearm. Thank you.
 
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Well I found the build sheet and parts list for it with a diagram of the break down. Whew! I am going to take apart and see what I can find. The trigger group doesn't look overly complicated.

As for the question, nothing happens when I pull the trigger. It clicks once then twice when cocking but that is all. The trigger make no movement when cocking either. There is normal spring tension on the hammer though. By the way, what is the point of the double set triggers?

Here it is:
 
cock the hammer, there should be one click and then another which is full cock, Next pull back the REAR trigger which sets the front and makes it a hair trigger.
 
Frontier Gander is right. The double set trigger is designed to give you a hair trigger. He's also right in that it may need adjustment.
 
The rear trigger "sets" the front trigger to be very light.
This give you a choice of "hard" front trigger (like normal) or a very very light precision shot if you pull the rear to engage the feature.

You can test the trigger without cocking the hammer, even with the mechanism out of the stock.
Pull the rear trigger, it should have a distinct "click" when setting the front.
Now touch the front, it should "click" (fire) as you apply very light pressure.

If it doesn't do this there are 3 adjustments.

One inside the hammer mechanism to seat the hammer correctly.
One behind the triggers to set tension on the main spring.
One between the triggers to control let off weight.

Maybe one of them has fallen out? Its hard to tell what's "missing" from the pictures.
 
There is no movement in the rear trigger at anytime no matter what I do. It does cock properly with the 2 clicks though.
 
Best to separate the two !!

Whenever I suspect that there is functional disconnect between the set and the lock, I separate the two. Most times, I pull the lock and check it's operation. I make sure all the screws are tight, on the bridle and make sure the fly is working properly. I also check the contact point between the tumbler and sear. Take care not to let the hammer drop to far. With the lock pulled, you can not check the set operation.. .;)

One behind the triggers to set tension on the main spring
The last problem I ran into, I found the problem with this adjustment. Did not take much to fix and once more, life it good. ... :)

Be Safe !!!
 
Whenever I suspect that there is functional disconnect between the set and the lock, I separate the two.
This^^^^
Its way, way easier when you can see the problem instead of just feeling it.

Try this:
back off the rear screw till you JUST feel it go loose. now tighten 1/4 turn NO MORE.

What happens then?
 
I backed the screw off like you said. Now the set trigger can be set, but only with a lot of pressure after cocking the rifle. If I then pull the forward trigger it releases the set trigger forward but the hammer still does nothing.

In this condition the only way I can lower the hammer is to pull both triggers back a bit and lower it manually.

Also, should the trigger assembly just pull out if I take the guard and center screw out? It is not coming out.
 
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Remove the lock screws. The rear one often is to long and pushes against the hammer.

I will get a lock off my rifle and take a picture of the next screw you will have to adjust. hang on a few minutes, my internet sucks.
 
This screw here is what needs to be adjusted. Its allowing the sear to grab onto the tumbler to much, creating a heavy trigger pull in which the set triggers can not set off due to how heavy it is. Screw it inward until its close to the edge. You'll know when you go to far as it will not catch.
IMG_4285_zpse9fa8010.jpg
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Red line indicates the area you will want to watch. Adjust it to much and the hammer simply will not stay cocked. No biggy, real easy once you see how the set up works.
IMG_4286_zps036910bd.jpg
[/IMG]
 
I have backed it all the way out counter clockwise until it let loose then just back in a hare. I can manually work the sear and all that this way, it won't even let the hammer move when all the way in. Is there a happy medium? It looks like all my parts are there as I can tell. Does the trigger assy look right?
 
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