Custom Mauser question (updated with pics)

Looking at the MSDS, the majority of coatings seem to be urethane based. As such they are thermosets and there's no easy way to dissolve the coatings once they are set. Mechanical removal is probably your best bet; solid steel parts you can probably get cleaned by heating to 300C. If you have excess in some hard to reach spot made of metal you can probably do a "spot removal" using a hot soldering iron.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I do believe it is the cerakote causing the problem. I shot it a few times up at camp (not at bear unfortunately). I'm running into problems taking the bolt apart as it has the buheler safety. The rifle was sporterized when I bought it and the bolt work was already done as well as the drilling and taping for a scope and I never had any problems before I had my smith do the work I requested which was rebarrel and rechamber to 30-06, new trigger and the cerakote.

I remember him saying he ran into a problem when he applied the cerakote and had to redo it so maybe he is a novice and put too much into the chamber. I will shoot the rifle as much as I can and see if that helps smooth things out a little.
 
Ok guys, I was cleaning the mauser and noticed a burr in the chamber as well as what appeared to be shavings of cerakote. I just dropped the rifle off at the smith again. He is going to remove the burr and said he doesn't know how it got there because it didnt notice it last time he had it. He also said the aftermarket trigger is the only thing that could be causing my issue with cocking the mauser. He is going to return the aftermarket trigger and put my original back in the rifle for me.

He cocked my rifle a few times then picked up another mauser that he had and noticed the EXTREME difference in the action.

Do you guys think the trigger could have made such a big difference?
 
Are you sure you trust this gunsmith? I'm not there to look at the rifle, but he didn't notice the burr in the chamber yet still says the trigger is the only thing that could be causing the issue?

I don't see how the trigger could make a difference that big unless it was really out of spec, but if it works out works.
 
The aftermarket triggers have a falling sear mechanism that also has a return spring to push it back in place while you cycle the action.

If the geometry isn't right, it is possible that the trigger sear is getting pushed up into the cocking piece at a bad angle and causing some binding. I've never had that happen with Timney or Bold triggers, but it is a possibility.

Swap out for a milspec trigger, if the problem goes away, it is the trigger.

The Buehler style safety should cause any issues with cycling the bolt, unless it is oversize and binding against the cocking piece.

Swap the safety out for a milspec flag safety. If the problem is lessened, the safety needs to be fitted.

Jimro
 
Your smith has probably identified the issue, the trigger's sear getting into the recess in the bottom of the cocking piece. A Dayton-Traister trigger will take care of it, they are designed to work with the military cocking piece. Or you can have your smith fill in the recess in the cocking piece with weld or a small piece silver soldered in.
 
If the barreled action is outside of the reciever and the bolt is hard to operate, I would check the headspace as it could be too tight.
 
Do you guys think the trigger could have made such a big difference?
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I can only guess there is a place where people to when fixing things, I can only guess the place is different. To me? It sounds like that place is where people go to when they want to talk it to death.

The trigger can be removed, when cocking the trigger does not get busy until the bolt is pulled back after cocking. Again, I would remove the bolt, then remove the firing pin assemble. after removing the firing pin assemble I would reinstall the stripped bolt 'and then:eek:' I would have at it, I would run/race the bolt back and forth.

I like a bolt that is tuff to lift, I am the fan of killer firing pins.

F. Guffey
 
If the barreled action is outside of the reciever and the bolt is hard to operate, I would check the headspace as it could be too tight.
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It is possible to check the length of the chamber from the shoulder to the bolt face before the rifles is torqued? together. It is possible to check the length of the chamber with the rifle assembled complete with scope and mounts.

If cocking has anything to do with bolt handle lift the difficulty would go away after the bolt was cocked, meaning lift the bolt, pull the bolt back and then close the bolt: NOW! Open the bolt again.

F. Guffey
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. It was the trigger. I have my original milspec trigger back in the rifle and I think the smith did a trigger job. I'm not a gun smith but I do enjoy my guns. I have never worked on one and this was my first custom rifle.

The next one I will try to work on myself. I got two savage 110's on a trade recently and I think I will work on one eventually, probably during my next layoff. The rifle has been out of my possession for most of this thread. I never thought it would take so long to do the wok on my rifle, it was about a 6 month turn around time for a local smith and it had to go back 3 times for different problems. I won't go back to him and there is still a bur i the chamber!

I just need to decide what to do next. Build an ar or another bolt action rifle. It'll probably be an ar. I spent some time in the army and miss my m4 :)
 
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