Crimping .44mag with no crimp groove.

D

Dundgren

New member
Hi,

The bullets im planning on buying in the future are H&N 240 HS TC bullet. But as far as I can tell from the pictures there is no crimp groove on these. So how do I go about crimping these? A very slight roll crimp? Or Do I have to buy a taper crimp die for my .44 mag?

Thanks.
 
You can use either a light roll crimp or a taper crimp. I assume you are loading these at lower velocities than one might load jacketed bullets because they are a plated bullet with a polymer coating. If you need to keep recoil from a heavy load from backing the bullets out your best bet is a heavy taper crimp. A heavy roll crimp is likely to cut the plating and cause separation of the jacket. (possibly leaving a bore obstruction)
 
I don't know about the velocities. Ill just follow the reloading data that HN has on their website. It's bullets backing out that im worried about...
 
I would try a light roll crimp first - it's revolver brass and that's what you do. I might pull a few bullets to see if the plating is being cut. If a light roll crimp isn't enough to hold the bullets then I would go with a firm taper crimp.
 
I use a Redding or a Lyman taper crimp die in a case such as yours. But I try and avoid bullets without a crimp ring these days...
 
My advice is to buy a different bullet.

And no, that's not intended to be snarky. It's just my opinion. I'll freely admit I'm not a big fan of plated bullets. I get excellent results using cast or jacketed slugs, made for revolver use, with a crimp groove or cannelure.

To me, the "advantages" of plated bullets are not worth the change in my reloading practices needed to use them.

That said, if you are going to use them, a light roll crimp should be enough for lower powered loads.

BUT, TEST them before committing to loading any large number. The gun they are being fired from, and the load level will determine how much is crimp is needed. A heavy gun with a light load needs very little crimp. A light gun with a heavy load needs more (sometimes a lot more) crimp.

Load in batches of 6 or a dozen for testing. With a light crimp, measure the rounds OAL. Write it down. ;)

Load 6 in the revolver, fire 5, measure the unfired round, see if there is any change in length. Repeat the process for a few cylinders to ensure its not a fluke. If you are getting Crimp jump, add a little more crimp to the next test batch, and shoot again. When you get to the point that bullets aren't moving from recoil, stop adding crimp. Too much crimp can cut through the plating and that causes its own problems. The same thing applies to using a taper crimp, except a taper crimp won't usually cut through the plating. Too much can distort the bullet though.

I shoot .44 Mag out of a couple revolvers, a semi auto and a single shot. I use a roll crimp (and bullets made for one) on all my loads, even though not needed for the semi or the single shot, being uniform about it mean that any of them can be used just fine in the revolvers, as well.

Do what you think best, and good luck! But, seriously, see if there isn't a different bullet that meets your needs and price point and has a crimp groove. I think you'll be better off, if you do.
 
I will look for other bullets but im quite firm on buying these. Its good that you pointed out that I should try a small number first rather than buy 2000 of them which I did with my first 9mm...

Theres not a huge range of bullets to choose from where I live (Sweden) and the ones that are jacketed and/or have a crimp groove are so expensive I could just skip reloading them altogether.

That measuring test is genius. I will definitely try it out. Thanks.
 
This is the only data I could find on H&S bullets https://www.hn-sport.de/en/reloading/tc-429-240-gr-hs-0

Rule of thumb; bullets with a crimp groove or cannalure get a roll crimp. Bullets w/o crimp groove or cannalure get a taper crimp. Of course there are exceptions, but for new reloaders this "rule" will keep them out of trouble...

This is one reason I don't recommend plated bullets to new reloaders; confusion because of too little easy to find information/data...
 
I have a devil of a time with the 200 grain metal plated bullets in my 629 as well. They move forward under recoil and tie the cylinder up no matter what crimp I put on them. I went to 240 grainers with crimp groove and had no more problems. The Desert Eagle shoots them fine.
 
I will look for other bullets but I'm quite firm on buying these. ...There's not a huge range of bullets to choose from where I live (Sweden), and the ones that are jacketed and/or have a crimp groove are so expensive I could just skip reloading them altogether.
Click to expand...

Maybe you'd be better off buying a bullet mold, so you can cast your own?
 
There used to be a tool that formed a cannelure in bullets with a knurled wheel. It was made to put a crimping groove in bullets that were not made with one. I don't remember who made it and I don't know if it is still available but it might be worth a search.
 
That sounds really cool! But I wonder about the consequences when doing something like that to a bullet that didn't intend on it.
 
Using a very light roll crimp will work. It might take a couple extra minutes(2 or 3) to setup the die so you get it just right but it's definitely possible.
 
No point in making life overly complicated. When I want a taper crimp, which is what I use for my PP boolits, I just seat the boolit, then run the cartridge back up into the sizing die a short distance. Takes a bit of practice to get the feel of how much pressure to put on the handle after you feel the flare go back down. GW
 
I load lots of Hornady XTP in the grooves. Have loaded some 357 125 grain with no groove. Never test accuracy enough to really say, but I wanted them crimped.

I use Lee FC.



As far as being afraid of plated bullets cause they change your routince. How ridgid are you? Do you only load one caliber? Not healthy, putting so little thought into your work, that you can not doing anything different. Unless you are casting, not really sure the big change.
 
I have a Redding carbide set of dies for .44 caliber and the seating die provides a roll crimp only. So to address the issue of bullets without a cannelure, I purchased a separate taper crimp die from RCBS for about $17.00. Well worth it just to make sure both kinds of bullets get the proper crimping treatment.
 
As far as being afraid of plated bullets cause they change your routince. How ridgid are you? Do you only load one caliber?
Click to expand...

I load for over 30 different rifle and pistol cartridges.

I don't see how "not being a fan of" becomes "being afraid of".

I've used plated bullets in the past, 125s in 9mm, 158s in .38/.357, and 200 & 230s in .45acp. And had satisfactory results, loading them the same way and with the same powder charges I loaded cast & jacketed of the same weight.

I used plated bullets with no crimp groove in semi autos and plated revolver bullets in revolvers.

That was a couple decades ago, and perhaps today's plated bullets are a different kind of animal. Or perhaps in the pre-internet days we were just seat of the pants reloaders, who didn't agonize over not knowing the "right" data for plated, didn't worry about the crimp cutting the plating, velocity restrictions, or other things that I read so much about on the internet today.

I'm not "afraid" of needing to do extra steps in order to get rounds that work properly, such as taper crimping a round that I normally roll crimp, I just don't see the point in setting oneself up needing to do it, when a simple matter of choosing a different bullet, one designed for the intended use (in this case, revolvers) eliminates the need for extra work.

If circumstances mean your supply is limited, and you can't get revolver bullets for your revolver, then by all means do what you need to do to shoot.
 
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