Old 45 Auto seating dies have a roll crimp. I remember I had to buy my first taper crimp die separately from my standard 3-die set. Back then you either set the roll crimp to just barely remove the expander flare, so the case could still headspace on the case mouth, or you roll crimped into lead bullets just below the shoulder where the ogive starts, but low enough to the bullet would stop in the throat before the case mouth reached the end of the chamber (a.k.a. headspacing on the bullet). A lot of the old-time bullseye champions did that and claimed it was the most accurate way to load lead.
Crimp 45 auto for revolver?
- Thread starter FoghornLeghorn
- Start date
Depends on the bullet.
Smooth sided bullets with no crimp groove or no cannelure get the taper crimp.
Bullets with a crimp groove or cannelure get roll crimped.
The bullet style and shape usually dictates which way to crimp . But remember there is no law that says you can't taper crimp a cast lead SWC revolver bullet above the crimp groove if all you have is a taper crimp die.
I shoot a lot of 9mm bullets in 38 special and 357 magnum....they have no crimp groove so I use the taper crimp die from the 9mm Luger set and taper crimp the bullets...works like a charm.
I do have a 45 acp revolver ( bought in 2004)and just use the taper crimp die like I was loading for a 1911 and use cast 45 acp truncated cone and SWC bullets.
No bullets have ever pulled their crimp in all those years.
Gary
Smooth sided bullets with no crimp groove or no cannelure get the taper crimp.
Bullets with a crimp groove or cannelure get roll crimped.
The bullet style and shape usually dictates which way to crimp . But remember there is no law that says you can't taper crimp a cast lead SWC revolver bullet above the crimp groove if all you have is a taper crimp die.
I shoot a lot of 9mm bullets in 38 special and 357 magnum....they have no crimp groove so I use the taper crimp die from the 9mm Luger set and taper crimp the bullets...works like a charm.
I do have a 45 acp revolver ( bought in 2004)and just use the taper crimp die like I was loading for a 1911 and use cast 45 acp truncated cone and SWC bullets.
No bullets have ever pulled their crimp in all those years.
Gary
If i drank, would drink to anymore older than I. 
Lord almighty, can still remember the internet furor when your's truly suggested head spacing on the lead bullet! Pure sacrilege, but it worked. Especially when manufacturing tolerances were looser. Was not an original idea by any stretch of the imagination.
Can think of at least 2 times when wanted to roll crimp into 45 ar bullets. Especially when Rem AR brass was all that was available. First time was loading 230 jhp's in Rem 45 ar brass. First firing was good, but second firing went downhill due to loss of Rem ductility after one firing. And yea, do not know if ductility is the absolute right term. Bought a hand operated cannelure machine to put cannelures into the bullets, then Redding profile crimp. Second time was using 200 lrnfps, which needed heavy roll crimp to stay put.
Really like pleasure shooting 45 acp/ar out of n-frame S&W, and got preference for using Starline 45 AR cases.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeLa3dvyLiY Around minute 2.17. Doesn't look like a shelf is present in that chamber. While the pictures are not absolutely definitive, does not look like a shelf in the chamber but just the short transition from chamber to throat. He easily forces the snap cap in far enough he needs to poke it out, which should not happen with a shelf in the chamber.
Sorry, but sticking with it.
Lord almighty, can still remember the internet furor when your's truly suggested head spacing on the lead bullet! Pure sacrilege, but it worked. Especially when manufacturing tolerances were looser. Was not an original idea by any stretch of the imagination.Can think of at least 2 times when wanted to roll crimp into 45 ar bullets. Especially when Rem AR brass was all that was available. First time was loading 230 jhp's in Rem 45 ar brass. First firing was good, but second firing went downhill due to loss of Rem ductility after one firing. And yea, do not know if ductility is the absolute right term. Bought a hand operated cannelure machine to put cannelures into the bullets, then Redding profile crimp. Second time was using 200 lrnfps, which needed heavy roll crimp to stay put.
Really like pleasure shooting 45 acp/ar out of n-frame S&W, and got preference for using Starline 45 AR cases.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeLa3dvyLiY Around minute 2.17. Doesn't look like a shelf is present in that chamber. While the pictures are not absolutely definitive, does not look like a shelf in the chamber but just the short transition from chamber to throat. He easily forces the snap cap in far enough he needs to poke it out, which should not happen with a shelf in the chamber.
Sorry, but sticking with it.
Jim Watson
New member
My M25-2 is properly headspaced and I can shoot loose ACPs if I feel weird.
But, as I have read is common for the type, the chamber throats are large, .454".
I have also read that when S&W went stainless, they reduced the throat diameter to suit the bullets better, but quit holding the chamber length close enough to certainly headspace loose rounds. You might get lucky - if that is what you call picking the empties out with your fingernails - or you might get a clip only gun.
But, as I have read is common for the type, the chamber throats are large, .454".
I have also read that when S&W went stainless, they reduced the throat diameter to suit the bullets better, but quit holding the chamber length close enough to certainly headspace loose rounds. You might get lucky - if that is what you call picking the empties out with your fingernails - or you might get a clip only gun.
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Foghorn,
I load the same for 1911s and my 625JM.
Just use a minimum flare when seating bullets, and 'crimp' to ~.471. You should have good enough case neck tension to use in the revolver. (maybe not with RP brass)
For additional consistency, and maybe accuracy, you might want to make sure your moon clips all face the same way. I turn mine so the 'flat' side is against the cylinder.
S&W revolvers are crazy accurate, but I am quite OCD about making consistent, quality ammo. Why wouldn't I make sure they all headspace as consistently as possible?
Regardless, your high-quality .45cap reloads should be fine in revolvers, too.
I load the same for 1911s and my 625JM.
Just use a minimum flare when seating bullets, and 'crimp' to ~.471. You should have good enough case neck tension to use in the revolver. (maybe not with RP brass)
For additional consistency, and maybe accuracy, you might want to make sure your moon clips all face the same way. I turn mine so the 'flat' side is against the cylinder.
S&W revolvers are crazy accurate, but I am quite OCD about making consistent, quality ammo. Why wouldn't I make sure they all headspace as consistently as possible?
Regardless, your high-quality .45cap reloads should be fine in revolvers, too.