Crimp 45 auto for revolver?

F

FoghornLeghorn

New member
I use the same taper crimp die for my model 25-2 S&W revolver as I do for my 1911s.

For those of you who reload for the 45 revolver, do you taper crimp or roll crimp?
 
Taper.
I load .45 ACP for the clipgun the same as I do for the automatic.
I DO keep dedicated revolver brass so as to avoid extractor/ejector dings that might affect easy loading.
 
The last batch I loaded for the revolver seemed to allow the bullets to back out during recoil, binding the cylinder rotation.

I guess I need to tighten up the taper crimp. Thing is, I use plated bullets and don't want to cut through the plating.
 
I don't know the bearing surface length or weight of the bullets you are seating, but if you can seat them so the start of the ogive is slightly below the case mouth (charge may need adjusting) you can roll the crimp in above that location. As long as it contacts the bullet where it is narrower than the bore dimension, even if you crack the plating it is unlikely to affect accuracy appreciably, nor fouling performance. For indoor range purposes, it's part of the plating that will crack when the bullet hits a backstop anyway.
 
I use the same ammo in my .45 convertible Blackhawk as in my 1911, it all goes through a Lee factory crimp die.

Before I got the Lee FCD, it all got taper crimped.
 
even if you crack the plating it is unlikely to affect accuracy appreciably
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A caveat I read concerning cutting the plating is the possibility that part of the bullet (plating) might remain in the bore as an obstruction for the following round. I've forgotten if I read that on Berry's or Ranier's website. Likely the warning was mostly for heavy roll crimps.
 
.45 ACP is taper crimped only regardless of the firearm or bullet used. It still headspaces on the case mouth. Even though it's in a moon clip.
 
Mr. O'Heir is correct in this instance. You would need to go to Auto Rim cases for the roll crip I suggested.

The cracked plating bullet leaving copper in the bore is a new one on me. Seem improbable if the adhesion of the plating is any good. Also seems likely just to be blown out of the barrel if it did separate. But I was not speaking of crimping in the usual places, but rolling the crimp over the end as you would with a .38 Wadcutter.
 
Measured length of 625-6 cylinder with factory S&B 230 fmj against the ledge = 1.616 in. Measured length with same round in 1/2 moon clip = 1.627. Brass of factory round =.891 in.

Measured this with one of the S&W revolvers owned, used and reloading for. Granted not all revolvers will measure exactly the same. Most S&W 45 acp revolvers were designed so factory rounds could be used without clips, but were designed to be used with the clips. Seem to remember S&W at some point actually putting out some without the stepped cylinder as a cost cutting move.

45 acp brass generally shortens up with resizing, and very likely won't headspace off the step in the cylinder, unless you do not use the clip. Even if the brass in the above example was at max length, it still would headspace off the clip (unless you didn't use one).

Even in autos, if your brass is short enough the round can headspace off the extractor. Please notice I said "can", not always or what it was designed for.

Interesting exercise is to measure length of some 45 acp brass reloaded multiple times using standard 45 acp sizing die.

When reloading standard 45 acp brass, am using taper crimp so round can easily be used in semi or revolver. When reloading specifically for revolver using AR brass, am using a roll crimp for the bullets with cannelure. Especially with Rem brass.
 
It still headspaces on the case mouth. Even though it's in a moon clip.
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There are many firearms that, while having the ledge in the chamber, and being designed to headspace the case on its mouth, actually do headspace on the half/full moon clip, or the extractor.

Seem to remember S&W at some point actually putting out some without the stepped cylinder as a cost cutting move.
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Your memory is playing tricks on you. S&W never did that. What you might be thinking of is the very first batch of Colt (not S&W) 1917 .45acp revolvers.

They had chambers that were bored "straight through", making them impossible to use without the half moon clips. S&W 1917s (delivered at the about same time) DID have the headspace ledge in the chamber (and all S&W .45acp's have had ever since) allowing them to be used with, or without the clips (although with different levels of efficiency).

Colt's next batch of 1917s had "stepped" chambers (like S&W), as did the rest of their production runs. We believe (though we have no clear proof) that those first Colts were reworked (cylinders replaced) when the gun were rebuilt after WW I.

A PROPERLY APPLIED taper crimp will hold .45acp bullets in their cases even when used in a revolver.
 
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?333264-45-Auto-Rim-brass

Comment #17. The article by Brian Pierce was one I was referring to.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...topics/2316266/Re_S_W_Model_625_Question_for_

Having located the August 2008 article, it specifically states Smith and Wesson engineering change so cases "no longer headspace on the case length or mouth." And references contentious discussions internally at S&W. Up here, the only new M625's I have ever seen I bought, and that was well before this article. No idea how they are manufactured now, or if S@W returned to the old way.

The S@W 45 acp revolvers were always designed to primarily to be used with clips, starting at the Model 1917. The ability to use rounds without the clips was secondary.

The Ruger 45 acp cylinders (several owned) are specifically designed to headspace off the case mouth. Can't speak for other firearms or makes of 45 acp revolvers.
 
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I have a 625JM that is only a few years old. I can use 45 Auto with or without the clips and therefore it definitely has a ledge in the chamber for head-spacing.

I use a taper crimp if using 45 Auto brass and OR bullets.

I use 45 Auto Rim brass when I am loading revolver type bullets (same as 45 colt) and I do roll crimp those.
 
I use taper crimp in my 45 auto. It is what I need. I know how to set up for max crimp strength based on my testing. Set the crimp to just put the mouth on the bullet under 10x Magnification or to go in a case gage loaded. Then add about 1/4-1/2 turn in on a separate crimp die.

Since it really headspaces on the moon clip, you can roll crimp. Or better yet, profile crimp, but these shouldn’t be needed.
 
Just measured a .45 ACP round in a chamber of my 25-2 without a using a moon clip, and the distance from front of cylinder to base of cartridge case is 1.621". With a .45 ACP round in the chamber contained in a moon clip, the length is 1.627". So, when using the moon clip, the rounds headspace off the moon clip.

Don
 
If I remember right the taper is for autos roll was for revolvers . Couldn't you call your die manufacturer and see what they recommend . Why would they make a roll crimp die for a 45 ACP.
I didn't mean it as 45acp's didn't use a roll crimp . There are 45acp revolvers . I always thought revolvers needed a stronger crimp. I properly sized case should have enough grip tension I'm sure . I remember reading in the RCBS die instructions the reason for both crimps .
 
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