“Converting” 22LR plated rounds to subsonic?

My rimfire can is an AAC Pilot II. The first baffle is stainless and the rest along with the tube are aluminum. Being aluminum its not recommended to do the acid dip or use an ultrasonic cleaner. Both can destroy the aluminum. I use my ss pin wet tumbler to get most of the lead off then a pick and paitences for the rest.

My can will have stainless baffles, so I plan on either an ultrasonic cleaner or rotary tumbler. Maybe the acid dip as I have a co-worker whose husband works with lead acid batteries and can recycle the lead acetate. Thanks.
 
Well scratch my idea of using an ultrasonic cleaner if that can is made of aluminum like TMD stated his is made out of.

I was unaware of aluminum being used to make them, goes to show what I know about cans. Thanks for the correction there TMD

FWIW, posts on several sites say the aluminum baffles are harmed in heavy duty commercial ultrasonic cleaners but are safe in "retail" ultrasonic cleaners. Several folks claim to clean their aluminum baffles in retail cleaners with no damage. Personally, though, not sure I'd take the chance.
 
FWIW, posts on several sites say the aluminum baffles are harmed in heavy duty commercial ultrasonic cleaners but are safe in "retail" ultrasonic cleaners. Several folks claim to clean their aluminum baffles in retail cleaners with no damage. Personally, though, not sure I'd take the chance.

And I've yet to find one of those cheap retail cleaners that will remove lead fouling.
 
"Thanks for the reply. My main use will be a bolt action rifle. My understanding is HV rounds will be supersonic through it. SV rounds probably subsonic, but I can't find those in plated, either."
Even standard velocity 22lr will likely be supersonic from a rifle. Actually, I doubt the plating will make much diff as ALL the bullets are wax lubed externally. If used at a reasonable rate, the fouling of the can isn't that much of a problem. The big problem is maintaining a "reasonable" rate of fire since it's so much fun.
I'm not sure how many rounds have gone through our 22 can but I haven't detected any significant fouling of the works.
 
Mono core, unscrew the end cap, slide the tube off and clean the core. You can use the same brush you use for the host.

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Even if you could pull, plate and re-seat the bullets, you would never get uniform crimps, and that is critical to any kind of decent accuracy in .22 LR.

(It is not widely known, but the early .22 LR rounds were not crimped at all because they couldn't get uniform crimps. That is why S&W advised not to use .22 LR in the original Ladysmith, not because it was too powerful, but because the bullets jumped and tied up the gun.)

Jim
 
Yup.
The original round with the 40 grain bullet of the .22 Extra Long in the Long case was known as the Stevens .22 Long, Rifle.
When crimped, it became the .22 S&W Long.

Long obsolete terms, of course.

There are a few experimenters working on black powder .22s. When the last shipment of primed .22 brass ran out, they had to go to pulling bullets, dumping the smokeless, ands starting over. Case expansion, powder charging, bullet casting and bullet seating are tedious operations. Not what you want to do to feed a Silent Plinking habit.

True .22 match ammo is subsonic from a rifle. Not plated, of course.
 
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