Considering getting muzzle brake for .308 - your thoughts?
- Thread starter zcrenna
- Start date
Look up Black River Tactical. They sell what is known as a lineage compensator. I have one on my DPMS lr308. The exhaust port holes are positioned facing forward. This directs the muzzle blast away from the shooter as well as others on the line. Additionally I feel this pushes the weapon directly back, reducing muzzle rise and felt recoil.
It may not be for everyone but my thoughts are it softens the blow thus allowing for a better sight picture and resembles an a2 flash hider. The guy I dealt with there several years ago was Clint,$60 plus dollars at that time.
Hope this helps,
Leonard
It may not be for everyone but my thoughts are it softens the blow thus allowing for a better sight picture and resembles an a2 flash hider. The guy I dealt with there several years ago was Clint,$60 plus dollars at that time.
Hope this helps,
Leonard
Just got back from the range and I can say a muzzle brake is awesome . I put 100 rounds through my new Savage FCP-k today and my shoulder feels great . With scope and all the other goody's I put on it , it weighs about 10lbs . being that heavy and having a brake it had about half the felt recoil as my American . Very nice to shoot .
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I don't think we should always make this 100% assumption that every shooter goes to a public range and shoots on benches next to other shooters. I'm trying to remember.... I think I was still living in Norman the last time I belonged to a public range or fired a rifle on one. And we left Norman in 1993.
There are good arguments for brakes. And some against. But since I NEVER shoot anywhere near another shooter... that one doesn't apply.
Gregg
sc928porsche
New member
Recoil on the 308 is not that heavy unless you are recoil sensitive. Since it is uncomfortable to you, I would suggest you replace the recoil pad with one that is designed to soften the recoil better first. For heavy recoil rifles, I really like the kick-eze. It will definately tame most rifles. If that dosnt help enough, then got to the brake. The kick-eze should drop the felt recoil of a 308 to about a 22-250.
Its not just about recoil. Its about muzzle control. The brake cuts down on muzzle jump, allowing you to easier spot hits, and helps with follow through and quick follow up shots.
I doubt any of us complain that the 22 rim fire has too much recoil, but a lot of people improve their rimfire shooting by adding a brake to their 22 rifles and pistols.
I have a buddy who put a brake on his rather heavy 223 varmit rifle. It holds the muzzle down so you could see the impact when you hit PDs.
That's what I'm looking forward to, Kraig. After all the mods to my SPS 20" .308, it weighs somewhere around 15 lbs. That additional mass has made recoil pretty much a non-issue, but that little bit of muzzle flip is driving me crazy. I'm hoping that I too, will be able to stay on target after breaking my shots.
The noise? Well... I don't guess I care so much. Most of the time I'm on the range, I'm by myself. I've sat three benches down from guys shooting 300 win mags and other calibers that would hit me in the side of the face with concussion; If I can sit through theirs and still shoot accurately, I guess they'll be able to sit through mine. Or try harder
The noise? Well... I don't guess I care so much. Most of the time I'm on the range, I'm by myself. I've sat three benches down from guys shooting 300 win mags and other calibers that would hit me in the side of the face with concussion; If I can sit through theirs and still shoot accurately, I guess they'll be able to sit through mine. Or try harder
While this is true does that make it necessary? A bolt gun probably wouldn't get faster follow up shots, by the time you work the bolt for the next shot, the recoil has already dissipated. Muzzle jump doesn't make it impossible to self spot. It's quite easy with my .270 at 200yrds if you maintain sight picture, which is basic technique. At longer ranges it become slightly easier because bullet ETA is generally 1 second or more, which is plenty of time to scope spot even with heavy recoil and muzzle jump.
JMO brakes are useless for my shooting style on any platform generating under 30ft/lbs of free recoil.
wooly booger
Moderator
I don't think a brake on the Ruger would be that cost beneficial. A .308 is not a heavy recoiling cartridge, even in a light gun. If you are bothered that much by it, change loads to the Remington Managed Recoil load or imitate it with handloads. You should also invest in a PAST recoil shield of a good shooting coat with a good pad. You might want to have someone knowledgeable look at your posture on the bench. Spending a lot of time at a public range sending 50 or more rounds downrange through a rifle with a muzzle brake is going to make you a lot more enemies than friends as well as an intimate encounter with an audiologist.
I have a brake on a .340 WBY and a .338 Lapua...they are a necessary evil with those beasts.
I have a brake on a .340 WBY and a .338 Lapua...they are a necessary evil with those beasts.
Tell you what:
I have a 308 on a remington action, not heavy but not light. I'll put a brake on it and anyone is welcome to try it out, with and without the brake.
You'll see what I mean about being able to spot your hits and stay in position.
Sure its loud, so is a 22 if you don't wear ear protection which anyone would be silly not to use, regardless of what your shooting.
I don't notice the noise on my 375 H&H with the brake, but I sure notice the recoils nad the lack of ability to stay on target with out it.
But like I said, best thing to do is try it. My offer is open to anyone who what to try a brake.
I have a 308 on a remington action, not heavy but not light. I'll put a brake on it and anyone is welcome to try it out, with and without the brake.
You'll see what I mean about being able to spot your hits and stay in position.
Sure its loud, so is a 22 if you don't wear ear protection which anyone would be silly not to use, regardless of what your shooting.
I don't notice the noise on my 375 H&H with the brake, but I sure notice the recoils nad the lack of ability to stay on target with out it.
But like I said, best thing to do is try it. My offer is open to anyone who what to try a brake.
allaroundhunter
New member
But were they using brakes? I'll tell you something, I much prefer shooting next to someone who is shooting a .300 Win Mag without a brake than next to one of my teammates who is shooting an AR in .223 with a brake....
zcrenna,
You don't mention what state you are in, but in many states there is another option.
If you are willing to fill out the paperwork and don't mind a 6 month or so wait, plus a two hundred dollar tax stamp do some research on Silencers/Suppressors.
They reduce noise substantially even with a supersonic round and function as a brake.
http://thunderbeastarms.com/
The main problem is the wait time and the fact that it is hard to own just one
You don't mention what state you are in, but in many states there is another option.
If you are willing to fill out the paperwork and don't mind a 6 month or so wait, plus a two hundred dollar tax stamp do some research on Silencers/Suppressors.
They reduce noise substantially even with a supersonic round and function as a brake.
http://thunderbeastarms.com/
The main problem is the wait time and the fact that it is hard to own just one
Sling Pad, Lighter Bullets
I have a 8x57 mauser and that thing kicks like a mule when I load up to full power (like the european loads). I put a recoil pad on first - that was cheapest. And since I built it from a barreled receiver it also sports a medium heavy wood boyd's thumbhole stock - nice feel to it. Lastly I have had the front sight removed and had it ported. Didn't reduce the recoil as much as I thought it would but it wasn't an aftermarket muzzle brake - probably wasn't large enough.
Shooting prone or bench is very accurate but also puts all your weight behind the rifle's recoil. It has no where to go but into your shoulder. If your practicing for hunting you might want to try posting up. Shoot standing up with the rifle resting on the side of a post (more like what you might be doing when hunting) - the recoil will bump your shoulder backwards instead of hammering you as you "lean into it" on the bench.
I also have a TC Contender rifle with a very light choate stock on it in 45/70. This is probably a 7lb rifle. That kicks worse than the 8mm. And the Choate has a terribly blunt butt end. I bought a recoil pad sling to use at the range. This is a heavily padded leather shoulder pad that you can put on over your t-shirt (or anything else) when at the range. The sling holds the heavy pad right where your rifle rests on your shoulder. It's great!! In winter with a heavy coat on it isn't needed. I always take it to the range when shooting the 45/70 or the 8 in summer. And it isn't attached to the rifle so I can use it on anything. I also put a mercury recoil tamer in the buttstock, which also helps a bit.
Another thought is bullet selection. If you shoot 180-200 grain bullets near max load then that is going to kick hard. If you switch to 150-165 grain bullets at medium velocity you will notice a difference. Usually if your target shooting, I have found that the sweet spot for accuracy is around 2500fps for a lot of different bullets (150's-180's). If you reload you can reduce the powder to make a comfortable and accurate round for target. On the other hand, if your target shooting to work up that elk or moose round your going to be working for it on the recoil side (heavy - fast bullets for penetration). Might want to eventually get a brake or get a combination butt pad and a sling pad to start.
I have a 8x57 mauser and that thing kicks like a mule when I load up to full power (like the european loads). I put a recoil pad on first - that was cheapest. And since I built it from a barreled receiver it also sports a medium heavy wood boyd's thumbhole stock - nice feel to it. Lastly I have had the front sight removed and had it ported. Didn't reduce the recoil as much as I thought it would but it wasn't an aftermarket muzzle brake - probably wasn't large enough.
Shooting prone or bench is very accurate but also puts all your weight behind the rifle's recoil. It has no where to go but into your shoulder. If your practicing for hunting you might want to try posting up. Shoot standing up with the rifle resting on the side of a post (more like what you might be doing when hunting) - the recoil will bump your shoulder backwards instead of hammering you as you "lean into it" on the bench.
I also have a TC Contender rifle with a very light choate stock on it in 45/70. This is probably a 7lb rifle. That kicks worse than the 8mm. And the Choate has a terribly blunt butt end. I bought a recoil pad sling to use at the range. This is a heavily padded leather shoulder pad that you can put on over your t-shirt (or anything else) when at the range. The sling holds the heavy pad right where your rifle rests on your shoulder. It's great!! In winter with a heavy coat on it isn't needed. I always take it to the range when shooting the 45/70 or the 8 in summer. And it isn't attached to the rifle so I can use it on anything. I also put a mercury recoil tamer in the buttstock, which also helps a bit.
Another thought is bullet selection. If you shoot 180-200 grain bullets near max load then that is going to kick hard. If you switch to 150-165 grain bullets at medium velocity you will notice a difference. Usually if your target shooting, I have found that the sweet spot for accuracy is around 2500fps for a lot of different bullets (150's-180's). If you reload you can reduce the powder to make a comfortable and accurate round for target. On the other hand, if your target shooting to work up that elk or moose round your going to be working for it on the recoil side (heavy - fast bullets for penetration). Might want to eventually get a brake or get a combination butt pad and a sling pad to start.
While it might work, I cannot justify the expense on a the Ruger American. The brake will be worth more than the rifle, and these rifles are not made for long term hard use. They are designed for the occasional shooter who shoots box of ammo a year. If you want to shoot more than that you need a better rifle.
Recoil should be a non-factor, but I can see it helping with muzzle control on a semi where rapid fire is more likely
Recoil should be a non-factor, but I can see it helping with muzzle control on a semi where rapid fire is more likely
Trauma padding is meant to stop a 9mm bullet in flight. I'd bet if you put apiece in between the butt and your shoulder it would do a pretty dang good job of taking out the shoulder pain. Not only is it keeping the hard stock off your shoulder but it should also disperse the energy over a much wider area.
Rifleman1776
New member
I am puzzled about a .308 having recoil that bothers an adult male. My 30-06 is not uncomfortable for me to shoot. And I have shot it extensively, hunting and competition. I am not a big person. Until I get up to the 220 gr. bullets with max-max loads the recoil is very tolerable. The .308 is less rifle.
If it is to be used for target shooting I believe others on the line should be considered as a courtesty. Get a heavier rifle with a bull barrel and lot more weight.
If it is to be used for target shooting I believe others on the line should be considered as a courtesty. Get a heavier rifle with a bull barrel and lot more weight.
