Or you could get one of these and buy any gun you want.
http://www.wallerandson.com/hammershrouds.htm
http://www.wallerandson.com/hammershrouds.htm
concealed hammer snubbies...
- Thread starter SkaerE
- Start date
AlonzoMosely
New member
"there is less risk of dislodging a bullet. Ive heard this happening in the super fly weight guns and it locks the cylinder....NOT GOOD"
<p>
Just yesterday, this happened to me 3 times in 30 rounds using Sellier & Bellot .38 in a 642 Airweight. Hasn't happened with Federal, PMC, or reloads, so I am hoping it is just a problem with the S&B, which I have since shipped back for a refund.
<p>
Just yesterday, this happened to me 3 times in 30 rounds using Sellier & Bellot .38 in a 642 Airweight. Hasn't happened with Federal, PMC, or reloads, so I am hoping it is just a problem with the S&B, which I have since shipped back for a refund.
J.R. Bob Dobbs
New member
I disabled the lock on my 650 
J.R. Bob Dobbs
New member
650 Lock disabling
You need to completely disassemble the gun. Don't try this unless you have proper gunsmithing screwdrivers, or you'll bugger up the sideplate screws which are very soft. You need the sideplate, hammer, etc out of the gun. Then you pull out a pin on the frame that retains the lock. Turn the lock CCW until it unscrews from the gun. Be careful not to lose the spring and ball that will come loose when the lock turns past the detent.
Cut off the flat "tab" on the end of the lock that contacts the hammer when locked (I used a dremel and cut-off disk). Re-assemble. It looks stock, doesn't lock. I would have left the lock off the gun, but didn't want a hole in the frame. If you want to sell the gun, just order a new lock and install it (it couldn't cost very much, it's just a machined rod).
You need to completely disassemble the gun. Don't try this unless you have proper gunsmithing screwdrivers, or you'll bugger up the sideplate screws which are very soft. You need the sideplate, hammer, etc out of the gun. Then you pull out a pin on the frame that retains the lock. Turn the lock CCW until it unscrews from the gun. Be careful not to lose the spring and ball that will come loose when the lock turns past the detent.
Cut off the flat "tab" on the end of the lock that contacts the hammer when locked (I used a dremel and cut-off disk). Re-assemble. It looks stock, doesn't lock. I would have left the lock off the gun, but didn't want a hole in the frame. If you want to sell the gun, just order a new lock and install it (it couldn't cost very much, it's just a machined rod).
KEN CHAVEZ
New member
Eric L.
You are right about the Scandium/Titanium revolvers, with the wrong ammo the fifth bullet will slip out (dislodging) a little at a time untill that last bullet locks up on the front of the frame. With my S&W-360Sc this "dislodging" did occur with 125gr Winchester Win-Clean ammo, but with Federal 130gr Hydra-Shok this did not happen at all. I know that the crimp on the bullet makes a big difference. With my S&W-386PD I don't have a problem with "dislodging" of bullets, even with the Win-Clean
My pick for the compact type of revolver that I would buy is in this order, with a star (*) next to the guns I do own or have owed.
Stainless Steel: These SS models make great I.W.B guns.
1. S&W-M640
2. Ruger SP-101CH
3. Ruger SP-101 *
4. S&W-M60
Scandium/Titanium: These Scandium/Titanium models are great for I.W.B. and ankle, guns.
1. S&W-340PD
2. S&W-340Sc
3. S&W-360Sc *
Scandium/Titanium L-frame and my favorite: Great seven round I.W.B. gun
1. S&W M-386PD *
2. S&W M-386Mountain Lite
I am not a Taurus fan as of yet, but I am not saying that they are good or bad guns, but just my experience was from about 15 years ago and I was not to happy with them then.
Good Shooting
You are right about the Scandium/Titanium revolvers, with the wrong ammo the fifth bullet will slip out (dislodging) a little at a time untill that last bullet locks up on the front of the frame. With my S&W-360Sc this "dislodging" did occur with 125gr Winchester Win-Clean ammo, but with Federal 130gr Hydra-Shok this did not happen at all. I know that the crimp on the bullet makes a big difference. With my S&W-386PD I don't have a problem with "dislodging" of bullets, even with the Win-Clean
My pick for the compact type of revolver that I would buy is in this order, with a star (*) next to the guns I do own or have owed.
Stainless Steel: These SS models make great I.W.B guns.
1. S&W-M640
2. Ruger SP-101CH
3. Ruger SP-101 *
4. S&W-M60
Scandium/Titanium: These Scandium/Titanium models are great for I.W.B. and ankle, guns.
1. S&W-340PD
2. S&W-340Sc
3. S&W-360Sc *
Scandium/Titanium L-frame and my favorite: Great seven round I.W.B. gun
1. S&W M-386PD *
2. S&W M-386Mountain Lite
I am not a Taurus fan as of yet, but I am not saying that they are good or bad guns, but just my experience was from about 15 years ago and I was not to happy with them then.
Good Shooting
A few comments on some of these posts....
If Y'all are worrying about debris, coins, keys, etc, getting lodged in the exposed hammer channel, DUH, DON'T PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR CARRY POCKET BUT DA GUN AND DA HOLSTER! C'mon, this is all common sense. (common sense, whazzat?)
As far as having some perp grab for your gun......they should never be that close to you that quickly. However, if they do, what's that left or right hand doing? Nothing? My pocket draw is almost always two-handed: the right draws the gun while the left holds the pocket holster and acts as a fending barrier while my gun comes into action.
For some of you semi-auto fans, many of those guns can be taken out of battery simply by pushing back the slider on the gun by as little as 1/8". So much for security.
I also prefer an exposed hammer, especially if you need to make a rare long-distance rescue shot in SA, and/or to clear a malfunction quicker. If you prefer the enclosed hammer, check out the 650 and 850 Taurus CIA. I don't know what they did to the triggers on these pieces but they are amazing.
Good luck in your search.
If Y'all are worrying about debris, coins, keys, etc, getting lodged in the exposed hammer channel, DUH, DON'T PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR CARRY POCKET BUT DA GUN AND DA HOLSTER! C'mon, this is all common sense. (common sense, whazzat?)
As far as having some perp grab for your gun......they should never be that close to you that quickly. However, if they do, what's that left or right hand doing? Nothing? My pocket draw is almost always two-handed: the right draws the gun while the left holds the pocket holster and acts as a fending barrier while my gun comes into action.
For some of you semi-auto fans, many of those guns can be taken out of battery simply by pushing back the slider on the gun by as little as 1/8". So much for security.
I also prefer an exposed hammer, especially if you need to make a rare long-distance rescue shot in SA, and/or to clear a malfunction quicker. If you prefer the enclosed hammer, check out the 650 and 850 Taurus CIA. I don't know what they did to the triggers on these pieces but they are amazing.
Good luck in your search.
Frankly 45
New member
I was in a similar situation a few years back. Didn't have enough confidence in the small caliber semi-autos, and the MK9's & 40's though superb are too heavy for MY pockets. After a lot of reading and having the opportunity to test-fire one, I settled on a S&W 642 Centennial Airweight +P. It handles the 158gr.+p Nyclad hollow points well, and I find it very versatile as a carry piece. It's my "always gun" - the largest caliber I can carry all the time. That being said, now that Kahr's new MP9 solved the weight problem, I may just have to start saving up for a future purchase!