common issues, used SW
- Thread starter Bezoar
- Start date
stubbicatt
New member
In the smaller frame revolvers, cylinder gap would be one of the issues I would look for. If you have automotive feeler gages, and if the vendor will let you, see if you can slip something larger than .006 in there. If so, I would count on having that remedied.
jglsprings
New member
^^ This ^^
All of these K frames were purchased used.
g.willikers
New member
They're great guns.
But they seem to be high on the list of guns people mess with trying to "improve" them.
Must be due to all those ads for aftermarket parts.
So, along with 1911s and ARs, thoroughly check out any used one you're thinking of buying like it was a "pre-owned" car.
But they seem to be high on the list of guns people mess with trying to "improve" them.
Must be due to all those ads for aftermarket parts.
So, along with 1911s and ARs, thoroughly check out any used one you're thinking of buying like it was a "pre-owned" car.
SteelChickenShooter
New member
I was checking timing with a tiny light and the seller thought I was trying to see the bore in a wrong way. Looking from the muzzle end with the cylinder closed. I told him I wasn't inspecting the bore.
Print out a copy of Jim March's 'Revolver checkout'
Take that to the gun store with you and have at it.
Link to Jim March's Revolver Checkout
Take that to the gun store with you and have at it.
Link to Jim March's Revolver Checkout
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I can't really think of any specific chronic problem with S&W revolvers. They are machines and are subject to wear and failure, but for the most part they are amazingly robust and finding one that is damaged from normal use is difficult.
I'm still shooting this one after it's been around more than 100 years.
This one's a kid at 85 years of age.
I'm still shooting this one after it's been around more than 100 years.
This one's a kid at 85 years of age.
carguychris
New member
^^^ Gary's suggestion is probably the second most common problem I've encountered.
The most common problem is light strikes due to ill-advised attempts at lightening the trigger pull, e.g. filing down the strain screw of a K frame, cutting the mainspring of a J frame.
#3 is failure of the cylinder to lock before the hammer falls in double-action, although I've examined one gun that didn't lock on one chamber in single-action. This is tested by pulling the trigger most of the way ("staging"), then carefully listening for the "tick" of the cylinder stop engaging before the hammer drops.
FWIW I've observed this problem much more frequently on prewar revolvers, which I attribute to softer cylinder steel and the resulting accelerated stop notch wear. However, I've examined one revolver with a hammer that fell freakishly early on every chamber, which I attribute to ill-advised garage 'smithing.
#4 and #5 are cylinder endshake and really sloppy lockup, not necessarily in that order.
Other tidbits...
Compared to larger-caliber Smiths, I've seen an unusual number of .32 Long I and J frames with bulged barrels and/or broken or bent ejector stars. I can't explain the bulged barrels. I've attributed the ejector star damage to .32ACP / .32 Auto cases getting stuck in the chambers due to the undersized rims. I wish people would use the proper ammo.
If the cylinder only advances with the muzzle pointed downwards, this indicates that the hand has been installed with the hand spring on the wrong side of the small pin- a common first-timer assembly mistake. I almost got a bargain on a gun with this problem, but decided against buying it, for fear of encountering OTHER problems caused by incompetent 'smithing.
If the gun is difficult to cock, the cylinder is hard to rotate when it's out of the frame, AND there's no discernible wobble in the cylinder or ejector rod, the cause is most likely dirt and ancient dried-up lubricant inside the cylinder yoke. This is easily fixed. However, if the gun is hard to cock BUT the cylinder rotates freely out of the frame, this could indicate that pins are bent inside the lockwork, which is NOT easily fixed. Buyer beware.
The most common problem is light strikes due to ill-advised attempts at lightening the trigger pull, e.g. filing down the strain screw of a K frame, cutting the mainspring of a J frame.
#3 is failure of the cylinder to lock before the hammer falls in double-action, although I've examined one gun that didn't lock on one chamber in single-action. This is tested by pulling the trigger most of the way ("staging"), then carefully listening for the "tick" of the cylinder stop engaging before the hammer drops.
FWIW I've observed this problem much more frequently on prewar revolvers, which I attribute to softer cylinder steel and the resulting accelerated stop notch wear. However, I've examined one revolver with a hammer that fell freakishly early on every chamber, which I attribute to ill-advised garage 'smithing.
#4 and #5 are cylinder endshake and really sloppy lockup, not necessarily in that order.
Other tidbits...
Compared to larger-caliber Smiths, I've seen an unusual number of .32 Long I and J frames with bulged barrels and/or broken or bent ejector stars. I can't explain the bulged barrels. I've attributed the ejector star damage to .32ACP / .32 Auto cases getting stuck in the chambers due to the undersized rims. I wish people would use the proper ammo.
If the cylinder only advances with the muzzle pointed downwards, this indicates that the hand has been installed with the hand spring on the wrong side of the small pin- a common first-timer assembly mistake. I almost got a bargain on a gun with this problem, but decided against buying it, for fear of encountering OTHER problems caused by incompetent 'smithing.
If the gun is difficult to cock, the cylinder is hard to rotate when it's out of the frame, AND there's no discernible wobble in the cylinder or ejector rod, the cause is most likely dirt and ancient dried-up lubricant inside the cylinder yoke. This is easily fixed. However, if the gun is hard to cock BUT the cylinder rotates freely out of the frame, this could indicate that pins are bent inside the lockwork, which is NOT easily fixed. Buyer beware.
RevolverRO
New member
I've notice warping/wavy line along the sideplate seams, a sure sign the sideplate has been pried off instead of gently tapped off by striking the opposite side of the frame with a non-marring object.
Also I've noticed an uneven or sprung crane, caused by 'flipping' the cylinder shut by flicking your wrist.
Also I've noticed an uneven or sprung crane, caused by 'flipping' the cylinder shut by flicking your wrist.
The most common problem with used guns of any make is a previous owner who wanted to "improve" or "fix" the gun. Check for buggered screw slots, very visible side plate edges (caused by repeated removal and replacement of the side plate), hammer pushoff, uneven trigger pull, noticeable or uneven gap between frame and crane, etc.
"Boy, I really broke it now but maybe I can get it working good enough to trade it in if I use the big file."
Jim
"Boy, I really broke it now but maybe I can get it working good enough to trade it in if I use the big file."
Jim
Im curious because so far, the best deals on used smiths of .357 are habitualy written with "great lockwork, great timing. no returns at all."
And i know enough that a bad attempt to lighten trigger pull means a 3-400 dollar visit to smith and wesson. SO its the worst screwy thing around when its virtually impossible to get anything but used k l or n frames.
And i know enough that a bad attempt to lighten trigger pull means a 3-400 dollar visit to smith and wesson. SO its the worst screwy thing around when its virtually impossible to get anything but used k l or n frames.
highpower3006
New member
I haven't bought a new revolver since 1980, all my purchases are used. Of the 50+ used revolvers I've purchased, I have only had one that had a problem and there would have been no way to tell what was wrong with it in the store. The various checks that have been mentioned will winnow out 99% of the problem guns. It is not all that hard to install a new trigger or hammer and if the former owner backed off the strain screw to lighten the trigger it is a simple matter to tighten it up.
If you buy online and the seller won't offer a return privilege, run away from the deal.
If you buy online and the seller won't offer a return privilege, run away from the deal.
bedbugbilly
New member
Any brand of revolver can have a problem. If you're buying a revolver that's used, check it out before purchasing. Does it lock up tight. Is it "in time". Does the hammer lock in to place or is it "iffy". How is the trigger pull? How is the bore? etc. Not a whole lot different than buying a used car.
I have Colts, Rugers, Smiths, etc. and I love all of my Smiths. The oldest is a mid 1920s M & P Target the others 1950s vintage. The newest one is about 35 years old. They all are great shooters - accurate and reliable.
That doesn't mean that there couldn't be a problem . . . it's a mechanical object and mechanical things can break. However, if you take care of it, it will last. The same as a Colt, Ruger and "heaven forbid that I get crucified for this, a Taurus.
If you're looking at a used Smith (or other brand) - take a look at the sticky on used revolvers. That will tell lyon what you need to look for.
Good luck and if you end up with a Smith, I'm sure you'll be very happy with it.
I have Colts, Rugers, Smiths, etc. and I love all of my Smiths. The oldest is a mid 1920s M & P Target the others 1950s vintage. The newest one is about 35 years old. They all are great shooters - accurate and reliable.
That doesn't mean that there couldn't be a problem . . . it's a mechanical object and mechanical things can break. However, if you take care of it, it will last. The same as a Colt, Ruger and "heaven forbid that I get crucified for this, a Taurus.
If you're looking at a used Smith (or other brand) - take a look at the sticky on used revolvers. That will tell lyon what you need to look for.
Good luck and if you end up with a Smith, I'm sure you'll be very happy with it.
Glock20/460long
New member
I used to work at a "Honda" ATV/motorcycle dealer. People would ask me the same thing. I'd tell them "the owners".