combat flashlights

Thanks Boogeyman for starting this thread - I too was looking for combat flashlights. Nice pictures by the way, really shows the difference.

Personally I would want a flashlight that runs on regular batteries: AAA, AA, D and is rugged and dependable. So if I drop it - I dont want that to be another $79 expense.

Maglites cost around $20 or so. Is the extra $50 really worth it?
 
It is all well and good to be so familiar with your home/surroundings to be able to slip around in the dark. But one of the prime reasons for having a bright white light is to identify your target. That bulky shape in your living room may need shooting, but you best know if it has a weapon in it's hands.

Also, as mentioned, the disorienting effect of the better lights (60+ lumens) is a valuable asset.

jeff
 
Somebody asked about the Pro and Cons of LED's lights.
I have a bathtub full of flashlights, many of them LED's and Luxeon's I, III and V.
I also have some of the most expensive Luxeon's III made by the most prominent of our modders (Like McGizmo).

I really like them for most chores that a flashlight can be used inside the house and for normal things like walking the dog or looking under the hood of a car or changing a tire.

Where the LED's fall short, even the expensive Luxeon's III is in the throw department.
A 115 lumens out of a Luxeon III is not the same thing as 115 lumens coming out of the Surefire C-3 with the P-90 lamp, or the 115 lumens coming out of the TACM III flashlight.
Incandescent haveMUCH BETTER THROW, much better RESOLUTION and DEFINITION OF THE TARGET

Incandescent such as the G-2, 6P, C-2, C-3 etc are far superior to show you detail at a distance, Incandescent make nice "tactical lights" especially outside, Luxeon's lights due to the lack of the RED spectrum are poor performers at any serious distance. Let said after 25 yards.

LED's and Luxeon lights are POOR PERFORMERS in FOG. RAIN. SNOW AND SMOKE. That is why firefighters will not use them and the Army will not have any weapon lights using Luxeons.

I have many expensive Surefire lights with Luxeons III, modifications with the best electronics, Down Boys 917 running the best Luxeon III bins such as the TYOJ, here are pictures of a few of them.

GroupPRTs.jpg


PRTHead1.jpg


But I am well aware of their LIMITATIONS

I agree that LED's "bulbs" will last a long time and they are less subjected to shock, BUT, they do fail sometimes (the electronics) and when that happen you are out of light until you get them repaired by the Factory.
With the simple design of the incandescent you just need batteries and spares bulbs to keep them going.
That is why my Survival kit contains an E2e with extra batteries and a few extra bulbs. (I also use the MN02 lamp for 25 lumens and 2 1/2 hours in the E2e)

The thing to keep in mind is that the 100 lumens of a U-2 or other Luxeon light is not the same 100 lumens that you get from an incandescent light. They are measured with different equipment, yes Surefire measure them differently!!!

You don't have to take my word for it, just go outside in a black night, place your black lawn bag at a distance of 40 yards and shine your 100 lumens LED and your 100 lumens incandescent light.
You will see which one will let you see better!!!

black bear 84
 
Duxman,
Thanks Boogeyman for starting this thread - I too was looking for combat flashlights. Nice pictures by the way, really shows the difference.

Personally I would want a flashlight that runs on regular batteries: AAA, AA, D and is rugged and dependable. So if I drop it - I dont want that to be another $79 expense.

Maglites cost around $20 or so. Is the extra $50 really worth it? [quote/]

In my opinion those looking for a combat flashlight should buy the BEST they can afford. (it is your life on the line).

The problems with Maglites is NOT the quality of the flashlight, but the BATTERIES that it uses. Your beloved alkalines batteries AA or C or D can NOT supply a steady VOLTAGE to the bulb.
Consequently, when you put three nice FRESH alkalines batteries of a good brand such as Energizer or Duracell down the tube in a (said) a Maglite 3 "D", you are rewarded by a nice beam of 39 lumens, for about seven minutes when it drops to 75 %, after one hour the output is 20 lumens (50 %) and declining more and more.

To see what I am talking about, please look at this chart.

mag3d.gif


Lithium CR 123 3 volt batteries used in most "tactical" lights do a much better job of mantaining voltage. A better job is done by Nimh's rechargeable batteries.

So in your "combat" light if the agency paid for the batteries , don't hesitate to use the best you can have. A Surefire M-6 with the 500 lumens lamp will be ideal, will blind your opponent so you have time to shoot him at leisure!! :D

If the money for the six batteries (20 minutes run) comes out of your own pocket, so them I recommend that you get one of my rechargeables lights. the MAG 951 or the Black bear 678 lumens, they are way more powerful than the Surefire M-6 and FREE TO RUN.

Alkalines are OUT of the "combat" "tactical" scene on flashlights. They still serve well for use in regular flashlights for common chores such as fixing the plumbing and looking under the car hood.

black bear 84
Click to expand...
 
Actually for such "combat' as I am liable to engage in with a flashlight, Alkalines are very much in.

No one makes a "Tonk" that uses lithium batteries.

Sam
 
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