I have a 184 model Colt Army made in 1916. The cylinder will not spin at all. It will not turn in its firing position or when you flip it out as to unload spent shells. The shell extractor works fine. I expect it is rusted up somewhere...Is there a trick to getting it to free up? Any suggestions would be appreciated…I cannot find info anywhere as to how to remove the cylinder and related parts from the frame..
Colt .38 Army of 1884.. cylinder won't turn.
- Thread starter vv0350
- Start date
Cylinder comes out just like a Police Positive(have a PP of roughly W.W. I vintage. Nightmare of tiny springs and bits inside 'em). Crane lock screw comes out and pull the crane with the cylinder on, out. If it will due to the rust.
Pretty much the same as this.
http://stevespages.com/ipb-colt-officialpolice.html
Pretty much the same as this.
http://stevespages.com/ipb-colt-officialpolice.html
One more &*%$ thing...
The screw that securest the crane will not turn…I have soaked it for two days in various types of rust breaker, I have oiled it..I have tapped it repeatedly with a tight fitting screwdriver head and a wooden hammer. I have plyed it with Hoppes No.9 and let it soak. I have heated it with a hairdryer, I have put it out in the freezing cold…and it still will not loosen...
The screw that securest the crane will not turn…I have soaked it for two days in various types of rust breaker, I have oiled it..I have tapped it repeatedly with a tight fitting screwdriver head and a wooden hammer. I have plyed it with Hoppes No.9 and let it soak. I have heated it with a hairdryer, I have put it out in the freezing cold…and it still will not loosen...
Colt Army Special. The 1884 is the date of one of the patents used. The Army Special was the immediate successor to the New Army and New Navy series, which was the commercial version of the military Model 1892 series. The Army Special was succeeded by the Officers Model, which was Colt's mainstay medium frame revolver for years.
Now that screw. Do you have or have access to a drill press? If so, put a block of wood on the drill press table. Get one of those stubby screwdriver bits and put it in the chuck. Then, remove the grips, hold the gun left side down on the wood, and bring the screwdriver down into the screw slot. WITH THE POWER OFF, hold the chuck down with the handle and turn the chuck by hand. Try wiggling it back and forth a bit at first to see if you can break that screw loose. If that fails, then likely nothing will get the screw out and it may have to be drilled.
Jim
Now that screw. Do you have or have access to a drill press? If so, put a block of wood on the drill press table. Get one of those stubby screwdriver bits and put it in the chuck. Then, remove the grips, hold the gun left side down on the wood, and bring the screwdriver down into the screw slot. WITH THE POWER OFF, hold the chuck down with the handle and turn the chuck by hand. Try wiggling it back and forth a bit at first to see if you can break that screw loose. If that fails, then likely nothing will get the screw out and it may have to be drilled.
Jim
Please note that I said drilling it out would be the last resort. Using the drill press, with the power OFF, as a screwdriver is a well known way to remove stubborn screws (and percussion nipples with the appropriate wrench instead of a screwdriver).
The main reason screws are damaged when attempting to remove them is that the screwdriver will try to climb out of the slot rather than exert force against the screw. Even hollow ground screwdrivers will do that, no matter what folks say. By used the drill press, you can apply torque while holding down the press chuck; that keeps the screwdriver firmly in the screw slot.
Jim
The main reason screws are damaged when attempting to remove them is that the screwdriver will try to climb out of the slot rather than exert force against the screw. Even hollow ground screwdrivers will do that, no matter what folks say. By used the drill press, you can apply torque while holding down the press chuck; that keeps the screwdriver firmly in the screw slot.
Jim
Brownell's sells special screwdrivers however I usually grind my own. It helps to have a blade that completely fills the width and thickness of the slot. Use quality steel that won't deform. There are also shrouded screwdrivers to help prevent slipping- useful sometimes but not always.
Tapping on a screwdriver might loosen the thing.
Tapping on a screwdriver might loosen the thing.
Hunter Customs
New member
ATF is a good penetrate, you might soak it in that.
As for heat a heat gun is a lot better then a hair dryer.
Best Regards
Bob Hunter
As for heat a heat gun is a lot better then a hair dryer.
Best Regards
Bob Hunter
I may have broken more hollow ground screwdrivers than most folks have ever seen, and I don't use them when things get tough. In fact, when I use the drill press as mentioned, I will grind the stub screwdriver blade as short as I can and still keep the sides parallel.
Jim
Jim
Soaked for two days..no go..
Soaked the cylinder for two days and no go still…put it back into the pan of diesel and will wait two more days…hard to be patient…but..Used PB blaster on it over night also…Thinking about trying to rig up a deal that will minutely vibrate the pan…?
Soaked the cylinder for two days and no go still…put it back into the pan of diesel and will wait two more days…hard to be patient…but..Used PB blaster on it over night also…Thinking about trying to rig up a deal that will minutely vibrate the pan…?