Colt 1849 Pocket Revolver Bolt Timing

Well here's the deal, since the bolt is dropping early, you can get the drop closer to the targeted spot by lengthening the hand. Since your original problem was late pickup, that's probably not an option. You may have to live with what you have or replace the bolt.

The normal procedure is, the hammer trigger relationship establishes the "start/finish" relationship. So, you adjust the hand to bring the chamber to battery at full cock. This means when the full cock notch is reached, the bolt drops in the locking notch at exactly the same time. When that is achieved, the bolt is generally dropping late (on the un- tuned or new revolver). So, now is when you remove material from the left bolt arm to adjust the drop to the correct place and you end up with perfect timing. That's how to do it "normally". When utilizing used parts with new parts, you may have to make exceptions. Be advised that putting metal back on a part is harder than taking it off! New parts may be the best answer for this old gal and save the old parts (I guess collectors want the broken stuff ? Who wants an ill or non-functioning " original"? Never understood that ).

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
Thanks for the tips Mike. As it turns out, I checked the timing again, and it seems like the bolt IS dropping into the lead in groove in the right place.

I find it quite difficult to figure out how good the timing is on these revolvers. My method is too lay the revolver on a piece of paper, and, with the cylinder removed, pull back the hammer and figure out where, on the hammer's backwards stroke, the bolt drops, and mark that place on the paper. I then remove the bolt and spring, and put replace the cylinder, pull back the hammer to the mark on the paper, and look through the bolt slot to figure out where the cylinder notch is at. Anyone have any tips for an easier method of checking timing?

Currently the sequence of sounds I hear when I pull back the hammer is this: a click at half-cock, then a click as the bolt drops into the lead-in groove, then one final click as the hammer reaches full cock and the bolt simultaneously drops into the cylinder notch. I'm assuming this is correct, let me know if something is wrong with the sequence.
 
Ben,
The sequence is correct.
Bolt drop can be observed (since it is hard to see because of the curved water table) on a 6 shot open top by using the left side of the hammer slot cut at the very top of the recoil shield. Using that as if it were a rear sight, the short side of the locking notch will hit that mark at bolt drop. Lockup will be with the tall side of the notch hitting the mark. That would let you know the bolt is dropping one bolt width in front of the locking notch.
On a 5 shot cylinder, the mark is just to the right of the right side of the hammer slot cut. You might put a piece of tape as a "reference point" (marking the tall side of the notch while in lock-up.). The bolt should drop when the short side of the notch hits your ref. point.
This would be for "text book" timing and your situation may not allow that. As long as the drop is in the "approach" (groove preceding the notch), it would be "allowed".

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
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Thanks for the confirmation Mike, and the idea for timing. Thanks do all you guys here, this gun should be working nicely now!
 
Having installed the hammer spring, I now see that the trigger functions correctly on fullcock, but will not lock in properly at half cock. What should be done to remedy this?
 
I can feel the trigger sear hit the half cock notch, but the hammer forces the trigger backwards and out of the notch.
 
Clean off both hammer and trigger. Smear a small dab of grease on trigger where it touches hammer. Assemble and work action. Disassemble and look for tell-tale fingerprint.
 
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